No flow out of Shurflo pump

[Hoops]

Ok.... so after much deliberation I’m going to jinx myself by saying “I think it’s sorted fella’s” ? 

Maxbruffel, I think you nailed it there buddy! I continued to suck the water through the end of the hose coming from the outlet whilst running the pump at max. At first when I felt the spluttering had stopped I tried to attach it back to the reel and pole but was barely getting anything out..... again. So went back and did it all again, I took the pump off of it’s mounting position (about 4 inches above tank outlet) and dropped it below the outlet outside the van and ran it at full. Once I reattached everything back up I ran a auto calibration through the controller which came out at 30 psi and that was giving me plenty out of the end.... I remounted the pump back to where I originally had it and it didn’t change a thing! Yay! So...... seems it was just a rather stubborn airlock right? 

So..... my next concern is, what happens when the water drops below the pump? Surely with it now being primed it will have enough pull on it to run until the water drops below the tanks outlet right? 

And.... one more for you, I’m getting a slight drip from the connection to the hose reel which is now fixed in the van so I need that water tight! I’ll change the o ring on the reels elbow tomorrow and hope that’ll fix it. I don’t wanna resort to using a drip tray as surely with the correct fittings you don’t need that? 

 

[Hoops]

Please take a photo of your installed pump showing the hose to the pump and the pumps filter @Hoops

Thanks

We have always run 1/2" hose from the tank outlet to both pumps. The hose is still big enough to supply enough water for 2 pumps running flat out.

I have run this same pump configuration in 3 vans for the past nearly 14 years.

View attachment 20250

Wow! Those pumps are mounted much higher than mine so 4 inches above tank outlet can’t be a problem! 

Spruce you’re pretty much a godsend to window cleaners aren’t you!? I have managed to fix almost every little problem by coming onto this forum and reading your comments. 

Happy for me to take some pictures of my set up tomorrow? Would be great if you could have a quick nose and maybe give me some tips? This is the first build I’ve done solo so any help is welcomed ? 

 

[Hoops]

If I understand correctly, all the components were working before the refit, so they probably still are. I wonder if it might be worth dismantling and remaking all the joints on the suction side and then bleeding it through well? I've had success doing that a couple of times in the past after a refit or alteration. I pre-heated every hose end immediately prior, to soften it. It helps the fittings to bite in well. If any hose clips are used I'd aim to double up on them.

It's just an idea. Nearly all my flow problems have been caused by air getting into the suction side.

I’ll be sure to double up my hose clips buddy. I haven’t heated the hoses yet but if I find any seeps of water or any further air locks then that’s the first thing I’m doing. Thank you very much for your help mate. 

 

[spruce]

Wow! Those pumps are mounted much higher than mine so 4 inches above tank outlet can’t be a problem! 

Spruce you’re pretty much a godsend to window cleaners aren’t you!? I have managed to fix almost every little problem by coming onto this forum and reading your comments. 

Happy for me to take some pictures of my set up tomorrow? Would be great if you could have a quick nose and maybe give me some tips? This is the first build I’ve done solo so any help is welcomed ? 

We have never had a problem with the pumps not working. Shurflo pumps can suck water up to 12' above the water level. My son's van has the pump mounted above his 500 liter tank in his van. You just have to make sure that all the fittings are snugged up. We found those wingnuts need a small spanner on them to snug them up. Careful not to overtighten. Also, you don't need to use PTFE tape.

We also found that heating the hose up in hot water and using o clips helped seal against any air leaks. Some Jubilee clips don't work that well.

Then last but not least is the seal around the filter bowl. It mustn't be damaged and the filter bowl nipped up.

 

[Davy G]

Ok.... so after much deliberation I’m going to jinx myself by saying “I think it’s sorted fella’s” ? 

Maxbruffel, I think you nailed it there buddy! I continued to suck the water through the end of the hose coming from the outlet whilst running the pump at max. At first when I felt the spluttering had stopped I tried to attach it back to the reel and pole but was barely getting anything out..... again. So went back and did it all again, I took the pump off of it’s mounting position (about 4 inches above tank outlet) and dropped it below the outlet outside the van and ran it at full. Once I reattached everything back up I ran a auto calibration through the controller which came out at 30 psi and that was giving me plenty out of the end.... I remounted the pump back to where I originally had it and it didn’t change a thing! Yay! So...... seems it was just a rather stubborn airlock right? 

So..... my next concern is, what happens when the water drops below the pump? Surely with it now being primed it will have enough pull on it to run until the water drops below the tanks outlet right? 

And.... one more for you, I’m getting a slight drip from the connection to the hose reel which is now fixed in the van so I need that water tight! I’ll change the o ring on the reels elbow tomorrow and hope that’ll fix it. I don’t wanna resort to using a drip tray as surely with the correct fittings you don’t need that? 

Well done. Hopefully you've got it sorted.

In answer to your questions, here's my suggestions : We have 2 pumps. Both of them are much higher than the tank outlet. About 3 feet above. We have one inside the side door and one inside the back door. They're set up high so we don't have to reach into the van and we don't have to bend down. We used to get the occasional air lock at low water levels due to water draining back into the tank. We sorted it by fitting a nylon inline non-return valve, low down, just above the tank outlet, in the 1/2 inch hose. We can now use all of the water down to just above the outlet without getting airlocks caused by drain back. I'm not sure from memory where we got it. I think it was Varitech.

For the dripping at the reel elbow, I'd probably get a new elbow.

 

[Davy G]

I’ll be sure to double up my hose clips buddy. I haven’t heated the hoses yet but if I find any seeps of water or any further air locks then that’s the first thing I’m doing. Thank you very much for your help mate. 

Your very welcome. If you don't want to break and re-make the joints, you could try twisting at the joints as a test of tightness before doubling up on the clips. Sometimes in the past I've found they'll move even though they seem tight. Remember, air will leak in easier than water will leak out as air molecules are smaller than water molecules. That's why it can be very difficult to trace air leaks.

 

[Mx19]

Ok.... so after much deliberation I’m going to jinx myself by saying “I think it’s sorted fella’s” ? 

Maxbruffel, I think you nailed it there buddy! I continued to suck the water through the end of the hose coming from the outlet whilst running the pump at max. At first when I felt the spluttering had stopped I tried to attach it back to the reel and pole but was barely getting anything out..... again. So went back and did it all again, I took the pump off of it’s mounting position (about 4 inches above tank outlet) and dropped it below the outlet outside the van and ran it at full. Once I reattached everything back up I ran a auto calibration through the controller which came out at 30 psi and that was giving me plenty out of the end.... I remounted the pump back to where I originally had it and it didn’t change a thing! Yay! So...... seems it was just a rather stubborn airlock right? 

So..... my next concern is, what happens when the water drops below the pump? Surely with it now being primed it will have enough pull on it to run until the water drops below the tanks outlet right? 

And.... one more for you, I’m getting a slight drip from the connection to the hose reel which is now fixed in the van so I need that water tight! I’ll change the o ring on the reels elbow tomorrow and hope that’ll fix it. I don’t wanna resort to using a drip tray as surely with the correct fittings you don’t need that? 

Nice one mate, glad I could help!! I’ve been through the same sort of **** the last couple of days.
 

once the pump is primed it should lift the water no problem assuming there’s no air leaks anywhere.

with regards to the elbow, it depends where it’s leaking but if it’s the actual elbow, I’d just replace it... 

 

[Jango]

Yes change the elbow, changed o ring in mine last week, no better got a new elbow. They only last around 3 months for some reason. Tried tightening it from the inside still dripped. I’m going to buy some from Gardiners for mine as spares. 

 

[Ian Sheppard]

Ok.... so after much deliberation I’m going to jinx myself by saying “I think it’s sorted fella’s” ? 

Maxbruffel, I think you nailed it there buddy! I continued to suck the water through the end of the hose coming from the outlet whilst running the pump at max. At first when I felt the spluttering had stopped I tried to attach it back to the reel and pole but was barely getting anything out..... again. So went back and did it all again, I took the pump off of it’s mounting position (about 4 inches above tank outlet) and dropped it below the outlet outside the van and ran it at full. Once I reattached everything back up I ran a auto calibration through the controller which came out at 30 psi and that was giving me plenty out of the end.... I remounted the pump back to where I originally had it and it didn’t change a thing! Yay! So...... seems it was just a rather stubborn airlock right? 

So..... my next concern is, what happens when the water drops below the pump? Surely with it now being primed it will have enough pull on it to run until the water drops below the tanks outlet right? 

And.... one more for you, I’m getting a slight drip from the connection to the hose reel which is now fixed in the van so I need that water tight! I’ll change the o ring on the reels elbow tomorrow and hope that’ll fix it. I don’t wanna resort to using a drip tray as surely with the correct fittings you don’t need that? 

Hi Hoops

Glad you sorted the issue sometimes those air locks can be a real bugger.

Take care

 

[WindowMan Llc]

Hi here’s my question. Window cleaning resource sells a booster pump for $209. It runs 5 gallons per minute at 90 psi. What is the difference between that pump if any than a one I’d buy at bomb Gaars for a water tank that has the same rating for 100 bucks

 

[spruce]

Hi here’s my question. Window cleaning resource sells a booster pump for $209. It runs 5 gallons per minute at 90 psi. What is the difference between that pump if any than a one I’d buy at bomb Gaars ??  for a water tank that has the same rating for 100 bucks

This is never an easy question to answer. We also have little experience with the US supply market.

I'm inclined to go with what the window cleaning resource sells as they have experience selling window cleaning equipment to window cleaners.

IMHO you are looking for something designed and sold as a booster pump. For window cleaning I would be looking at stainless steel/brass/plastic pump housings and impellors. Cast iron housings and water create rust when standing idle. I wouldn't like to pump rusty water through my expensive 4040 membrane. 

The other point is the motor must be rated at a continuous duty cycle. Its pointless having a booster pump that has to be switched off every 15 minutes (hyperbole) to cool down.

In the UK booster pumps are sold for homes to boost water pressure through out the house. The main reason would be to boost pressure and water flow to the rainfall or monsoon shower head in the bathroom. In the UK these tend not to be suitable for boosting to r/o pressure requirements as they have to work within the water authority regulations which state that no booster pump must draw more than 12lpm of water from the mains supply network. If it does then it needs to draw its water from a break tank which is a whole new ball game.

For me I would be looking at a booster pump that incorporates an electronic cut off. When my float switch triggers the solenoid valve to shut water off because the storage tank is full then the booster pump must switch off as well. 

 

[Ian Sheppard]

Hi here’s my question. Window cleaning resource sells a booster pump for $209. It runs 5 gallons per minute at 90 psi. What is the difference between that pump if any than a one I’d buy at bomb Gaars for a water tank that has the same rating for 100 bucks

Hi WindowMan. Pump controllers are more my sphere, That said there will be a number of reasons for the difference. Firstly WCR sell a RHG pump that is made by Aquatec in the US/Mexico. Bombgaars seem to be selling  pump branded Flotec so a different manufacturer and at a guess that is probably manufactured in China. 

Another difference will likely be the quality of components used to build the pump, The Flotec possibly uses a lower quality/thinner copper in the motor winding. If this is the case The lower cost pump will get much hotter when running. Also the Thinner copper will be less efficient as it gets hotter meaning current from the battery is actually heating the pump motor rather than driving it

Its likely the lower cost pump using a lower quality material in the pump head means the valve in the pump may wear quicker with the pump head seals and valve failing more quickly.

WCR have a number of people who you can contact if there is a problem and they will help resolve that problem quickly. They can also draw on the expertise of RHG.

In Comparison BombGaars customer service representative may not have the detailed knowledge that WCR and RHG have built up over the years working in Window cleaning

In Short the Pump offered by Bombgaars may fail quicker and need replacement more often meaning more down time because you cannot work. Over a period of time the WCR offers a better investment in your business due to the probable differences in quality of the pump, how often it may need to be replaced and the expertise and support WCR can give

 Cheers

Ian  

 

[spruce]

Hi WindowMan. Pump controllers are more my sphere, That said there will be a number of reasons for the difference. Firstly WCR sell a RHG pump that is made by Aquatec in the US/Mexico. Bombgaars seem to be selling  pump branded Flotec so a different manufacturer and at a guess that is probably manufactured in China. 

Another difference will likely be the quality of components used to build the pump, The Flotec possibly uses a lower quality/thinner copper in the motor winding. If this is the case The lower cost pump will get much hotter when running. Also the Thinner copper will be less efficient as it gets hotter meaning current from the battery is actually heating the pump motor rather than driving it

Its likely the lower cost pump using a lower quality material in the pump head means the valve in the pump may wear quicker with the pump head seals and valve failing more quickly.

WCR have a number of people who you can contact if there is a problem and they will help resolve that problem quickly. They can also draw on the expertise of RHG.

In Comparison BombGaars customer service representative may not have the detailed knowledge that WCR and RHG have built up over the years working in Window cleaning

In Short the Pump offered by Bombgaars may fail quicker and need replacement more often meaning more down time because you cannot work. Over a period of time the WCR offers a better investment in your business due to the probable differences in quality of the pump, how often it may need to be replaced and the expertise and support WCR can give

 Cheers

Ian  

I'm glad you know what you are talking about Ian. ? I got the wrong end of the stick.

Me; ?

I googled Gaars and got nothing. I was scared to google bomb in case I got a visit from the FBI.

 

[Ian Sheppard]

I'm glad you know what you are talking about Ian. ? I got the wrong end of the stick.

Me; ?

I googled Gaars and got nothing. I was scared to google bomb in case I got a visit from the FBI.

You were spot on re the continuous duty cycle and cool down cycles. I will be watching out for low flying helicopters all afternoon now ?