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Silicone render cleaning

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Baldmonkey

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Has anybody had any issues cleaning silicone render with hypo? Done a lot of work with hypo but not come across "silicone render" before!
Also what's the best way of stopping lead reacting with hypo?
Thanks in advance
 
Silicone render no lots of k rend though , wet down lead before applying hypo mix then mist off any mix on the lead , only the cheap quality leads will discolour but you dint know what they are until they are affected. If it turns tge lead brown you can apply oxalic acid or any rust remover this should restore it to its natural grey colour .
 
@Pjj thanks for your reply, always a fountain of knowledge... What's the issues with k-Render... If no hypo, is bio OK? So sillicones cool?
 
@Pjj thanks for your reply, always a fountain of knowledge... What's the issues with k-Render... If no hypo, is bio OK? So sillicones cool?
No issues with k rend its similar to the silicon stuff you were referring to k rend hypo or bio can be used but not sure about the silicon render I haven’t come across it as far as ime aware
 
Ah right crossed wires sorry. So k-rend OK with either.. You're not sure about sillicones? Thanks paul
 
I've done quite a few render cleans, usually K Rend or Weber, but I have done 1 where I was specificallly told it was silicone - and to be perfectly honest I couldm't tell the difference. If I hadn''t been told what it was I wouldn't have noticed.
I treated the same as usual and where hypo was needed I used quite a weak mix and it was absolutely fine. Depending on the staining you might not even need hypo. I often find just Virosol / Ubilk / Screwfix degreaser can be all that is needed fot general dirt and staining and I prefer the non hupo option near lead flashings or where run off is an issue.
Also, as a point of interest, K Rend now do a silicone based render and haven't provided any different maintenance advice for it. And R.E. algae they do recommend a biocide / algecide type of treatment so that must also still be the official advice for their silicone render..
K Rend and Weber also endorse Lightning Cleanze which is hypo based.
So all in all, yes, hypo is fine with silicone. And as always with hypo, start with a weak mix and boost the strength if and when required.
 
Thank you @Pjj & @K in Kent for your advice, called to see the customer today and the pics are below. He said that the nodules (lumpy bits ?) on the render are the actual silicone, he went on to say that it's designed to be matched in perfectly should it need repairing with our having to redo the full Render underneath.
Anyway thanks guys ?

1000039902.jpg1000039901.jpg
 
Thank you @Pjj & @K in Kent for your advice, called to see the customer today and the pics are below. He said that the nodules (lumpy bits ?) on the render are the actual silicone, he went on to say that it's designed to be matched in perfectly should it need repairing with our having to redo the full Render underneath.
Anyway thanks guys ?

View attachment 29599View attachment 29600
From the pictures it’s hard to tell but looks like painted concrete?… I would definitely do that with a hypo mix try a bit low down out the way first as a test patch 6-1 mix see what happens you can always increase to a 5-1 or 4-1 if needed, cold weather will slow the killing effect of the hypo down so either givebit a longer dwell time or a slightly stronger mix if needed
 
From the pictures it’s hard to tell but looks like painted concrete?… I would definitely do that with a hypo mix try a bit low down out the way first as a test patch 6-1 mix see what happens you can always increase to a 5-1 or 4-1 if needed, cold weather will slow the killing effect of the hypo down so either givebit a longer dwell time or a slightly stronger mix if needed
My personal preference with that amount of area taken up by window and door frames would be to scrub it with a hypo mix to avoid run-off. But thats just me.
Looking at that pic contradicts my understanding of silicone cos it's supposed (I thought) to be smoother finish and more stain resistant whereas that's textured and pretty dirty.
Not sure what's meant by the lumpy bits being the silicone because it would all be done together from the same mix. Lumps of silicone wouldn't be added separately in a roughcast or pebbledash type of rendering?
I'm not having a dig at you @Baldmonkey , just trying to make sense of what he's told you - but maybe it's just me who's got all his facts wrong??
 
Thank you @Pjj & @K in Kent for your advice, called to see the customer today and the pics are below. He said that the nodules (lumpy bits ?) on the render are the actual silicone, he went on to say that it's designed to be matched in perfectly should it need repairing with our having to redo the full Render underneath.
Anyway thanks guys ?

View attachment 29599View attachment 29600
I don't think the customer knows what he's talking about :ROFLMAO:
 
I've done quite a few render cleans, usually K Rend or Weber, but I have done 1 where I was specificallly told it was silicone - and to be perfectly honest I couldm't tell the difference. If I hadn''t been told what it was I wouldn't have noticed.
I treated the same as usual and where hypo was needed I used quite a weak mix and it was absolutely fine. Depending on the staining you might not even need hypo. I often find just Virosol / Ubilk / Screwfix degreaser can be all that is needed fot general dirt and staining and I prefer the non hupo option near lead flashings or where run off is an issue.
Also, as a point of interest, K Rend now do a silicone based render and haven't provided any different maintenance advice for it. And R.E. algae they do recommend a biocide / algecide type of treatment so that must also still be the official advice for their silicone render..
K Rend and Weber also endorse Lightning Cleanze which is hypo based.
So all in all, yes, hypo is fine with silicone. And as always with hypo, start with a weak mix and boost the strength if and when required.
This is what I found for a customer who had a silicone render done last year How to clean EWI Pro renders - EWI Pro Insulation Systems this is the render that was used and it looks shiny and bright like it has been painted, they have an issue with their cat sitting on the deep rendered sills and wanted to know if I knew how to clean it, wfp won't touch it and they haven't bothered with sills since the render was done
 
Thank you @Pjj & @K in Kent for your advice, called to see the customer today and the pics are below. He said that the nodules (lumpy bits ?) on the render are the actual silicone, he went on to say that it's designed to be matched in perfectly should it need repairing with our having to redo the full Render underneath.
Anyway thanks guys ?

View attachment 29599View attachment 29600
I’m going with that being TC15 silicone as K1 silicone has more of a porous look when it’s finished, hypo with surfactant to cling on will do you not to strong on first go see how it comes up, wet the lead up first though if it goes a bit rusty looking when dry hit it with a bit of oxalyic or if it’s gone powdery white a 2nd rinse & wipe over with patination oil
 
This is what I found for a customer who had a silicone render done last year How to clean EWI Pro renders - EWI Pro Insulation Systems this is the render that was used and it looks shiny and bright like it has been painted, they have an issue with their cat sitting on the deep rendered sills and wanted to know if I knew how to clean it, wfp won't touch it and they haven't bothered with sills since the render was done
Thank you for that - and it's basically the same thing that K Rend and Weber say on their sites and all sell their own overpriced BAC50 based type of biocide
 
As far as I know it is fine
Dry lime (calcium) doesn’t react with hypo
Powdered calcium oxide would make bleaching powder (calcium hypochlorite) dissolved in hypo but hypo won’t dissolve dry lime render
 
I bow ro Dave's far greater knowledge, but just as an add on to that I know Benz recommend Lightning Cleanze and biocide for lime render - and as we all know Lightning Cleanze is hypo based.
No doubr there's a post about it on their website somewhere if anyone wants to check it
 
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