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Waterproofing van floor before WFP install?

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Nick1000

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Lancashire
Sorry feel like I am taking over this forum but another important question to ask please. Getting my van installed with a WFP system and been strongly adviced to waterproof the floor.. Polypropylene lining kits seem to be the cheapest option as Speedliner Waterproofing is an absolute fortune! Anyone any experiences of what kit to use? Thanks in advance.

 
Think I got the speedliner which was £600 I think but you can do it yourself for £130. It all depends how busy you are and if you have the time to do it. Its better to do it in the summer so that it can dry quick because you need 2 or 3 coats. Check on past posts on here or utube because its been discussed months ago.

 
I just use checker plate rubber matting on my floor, which protects it from all the bumps & knocks. I don't really understand why you would need to waterproof it.

 
Speedliner  is brilliant stuff , much better than the single pack  stuff like protector cost that’s rubbish easily scrapes off and wares through very quickly , if you can afford it it’s worth having but if not it’s not the end of the world 

 
I used protectakote for mine, you should protect your van as pure water is more acidic and rusts metal work faster. 




A lot of vans are now phosphate coated in the load areas that helps reduce the likelihood of rust but a good two pack waterproofer coating is a good idear especially in a new van that is likely to be used for many years .

I used protectakote for mine, you should protect your van as pure water is more acidic and rusts metal work faster. 




Pure water has has a PH of 7 so it is neutral it’s not acidic , but any water will cause corrosion or rust on untreated bare steel 

 
For a clever way to protect your vans from rust you should consider having some zinc fitted to the chassis. Zinc contains a denser amount of electroncs than many other metals which corrode due to the loss of electrons in the areas where you see corrosion. As those electrons are lost the zinc gives up more of it's own electrons to replace them thus slowing any corrosion.

It's known as a sacrificial anode - which as it's name suggests is sacrificial and will deteriorate instead of the metal it is protecting. Ships tend to have large zinc bars fitted to the undersides of ther hulls

 
My last van had speed liner applied it's a great product and is the best out there but a little pricey.Most of the self applied liners or protectors just don't seem to last.I am yet to see a van that has been protector coated that wasn't wearing after a year or two.

The Fords now have a plastic load liner in the back so I left that in and didn't bother with any thing else.

 
The last lot of Protectorkote I used wasn't as good as the first stuff I put on 12 years ago to my previous van.

This 2 part Raptor coating looks ok. It's usually put on with a spray gun but some have used a roller.

We fiberglassed the floor of my son's van and covered that with non slip top coat. We did that in winter and it took forever to cure even with additional hardner added for the cold. Putting a heater inside the van didn't help much. 

 
The last lot of Protectorkote I used wasn't as good as the first stuff I put on 12 years ago to my previous van.

This 2 part Raptor coating looks ok. It's usually put on with a spray gun but some have used a roller.

We fiberglassed the floor of my son's van and covered that with non slip top coat. We did that in winter and it took forever to cure even with additional hardner added for the cold. Putting a heater inside the van didn't help much. 
The mistake I made was chuck the remainder of the tin of protectacote away as it could do with a touch up now and again.  The chassis is galvanized so I'm not too concerned. And protectacote is relatively cheap so you get what you pay for I suppose. 

 
My last van had speed liner applied it's a great product and is the best out there but a little pricey.Most of the self applied liners or protectors just don't seem to last.I am yet to see a van that has been protector coated that wasn't wearing after a year or two.

The Fords now have a plastic load liner in the back so I left that in and didn't bother with any thing else.
My Citroen Berlingo lwb has same kind of stuff in the back ,seems like tough plastic 

 
The mistake I made was chuck the remainder of the tin of protectacote away as it could do with a touch up now and again.  The chassis is galvanized so I'm not too concerned. And protectacote is relatively cheap so you get what you pay for I suppose. 


No you didn't make a mistake as it goes off in the tin over time. It cures in the air and if you have used most of the tin's contents the air trapped inside the tin will start the curing process.

 
It’s been okay for last year ,  I do regularly check see if any water goes underneath,
 Most recent when I changed tanks ,

ther is plywood on top of that aswell,

ther shud b no reason water shud get underneath, along as all ya connections and tank are sealed ,

I only get water dripping from brush head at black doors , so I have a big boot tray catching it , 

I only clean windows so don’t have anything else in van

 
Sorry feel like I am taking over this forum but another important question to ask please. Getting my van installed with a WFP system and been strongly adviced to waterproof the floor.. Polypropylene lining kits seem to be the cheapest option as Speedliner Waterproofing is an absolute fortune! Anyone any experiences of what kit to use? Thanks in advance.
Don't feel like that!  Thanks for asking - I've just bookmarked this page as I'll be wanting to know exactly the same stuff when I buy a van this year. Saved me asking!

 
No you didn't make a mistake as it goes off in the tin over time. It cures in the air and if you have used most of the tin's contents the air trapped inside the tin will start the curing process.
Did my van 2 years ago in March and had loads left, did the van floor again last year including the board which my reel is mounted on to all went well, plan on giving it another top up coat this year as well 

 
No you didn't make a mistake as it goes off in the tin over time. It cures in the air and if you have used most of the tin's contents the air trapped inside the tin will start the curing process.


I have a tip for that - which for paint at least solves this problem. It comes courtesy of some old timers i know...

When you put the lid back on, there will obviously be small tiny gaps between lid and paint for air to creep through... so turn the tin upside down and let the paint inside get all over the lid and those tiny gaps. Then turn it right way up and store. The paint inside semi / drys on the inside of the lid and then provides an air tight seal against the outside world.

 
do you know anyone who has rotted a van floor because of WFP?...NO ME NEITHER!!

it simply doesnt happen.....i had an old kangoo that was 14 years old when i got rid of it....i used to flood it virtually every week.....not a spot of rust on the van floor,same with a 12 year old connect i used to have.......

ive got a 3 year old van now and just have the plastic loadliner that came with the van when new.....

 

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