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HAVING ISSUES WITH MOERMAN GEAR?

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Put them in, 10inch channel, great.....put them in my 14inch and found I had to alter my technique. 10inch I held the handle as I always do (tried my Moerman variable handle and also it,s precedessor (the straight or 40degree) on both channels and worked fine. The 14inch channel was leaving solution when I was moving in arc left to right. When I put my thumb central and forward more to my normal grip I had used previous with my 14inch it was perfect...think I also used slightly more pressure than I did previously did also. I always use razer red in my Moermans too.

 
Thanks for the good video. I do >95% of my work with a 14" Liquidator with Moerman soft but recently got a 22" channel to experiment with. My results are inconsistent but it is such a nice feeling when I can clean a door with just two fans. It feels like I scored a goal and the red light is flashing!

 
I think the thing that winds up the consumer is buying a tool that they have to add bits to or play around with  for it to work perfectly when it should work perfectly straight from the off. u shouldn't have to put unger green clips at the ends or use a different rubber to the one that comes with it for it to work without error. And especially when it comes at a premium. Also unlike other squeegees it only works when u use washing up liquid, anything else and it leaves lines. 

 
I have never put clips in. I have learned that if the glass is really, really wet there is little chance of the end of the rubber stretching or curling up from dragging, although I am having some challenges with that issue while I am trying to get proficient with my new 22" channel.

The soap I use is Waxie Liquid Squeegee, it has good glide. I started adding some Seventh Generation dishwashing soap because I am curious to see how it works and I have started" adding a bit of Trisodium Phosphate (TSP) too, which also has excellent slip.

I dont' know of these soaps are available in the UK, so not sure if this info is helpful.

 
From when I was first taught to use a squeegee (35 years ago almost on Ettore Brass) soap was ALWAYS used to aid slip on the glass and in fact once 'fanning' was mastered, considered essential. Used to use GG4 until I got my first Wagtail. Not enough slip so out came the faithful dish soap again. So with Liquidator the requirement for slip is no different and in fact the design with the 'dog eared' clips makes it even more important. The clips DO NOT require modification in any way. The Moerman rubber is excellent BUT chews out at the ends quickly on older frames and with less than precise blading and the clips are a suggestion NOT a requirement, mainly for peace of mind, but gives the ability to move a little quicker and makes the channel a little more 'forgiving'.

 
I totally agree @Eric Gilliand

I learnt with brass squeegees and dish soap

I am currently using all my liquidator channels with no clips or wire or anything else other than standard and v1 and v2 clips with no issues whatsoever

Use the right soap and everything else is unnecessary 

I used clips for a while but with enough experience i am still just as quick and always a perfect job 

 
I totally agree @Eric Gilliand

I learnt with brass squeegees and dish soap

I am currently using all my liquidator channels with no clips or wire or anything else other than standard and v1 and v2 clips with no issues whatsoever

Use the right soap and everything else is unnecessary 

I used clips for a while but with enough experience i am still just as quick and always a perfect job 
Do you also think it,s particularly important with the liquidator to use right size channel to size of window? because of turning arc? more so than with for example Unger channels?

 

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