Shurflo Pump connector overheating

[TimB]

I would say your 'controller' is just controlling the speed of the pump. A 'standard' water fed pole controller has electronics that monitor the current the pump is pulling so it can 'sense' when you shut off the flow and it then pauses the pump. It continues to check every couple of seconds if your flow is open again. The calibration is when you extend your pole to it's tallest and tell the controller to calibrate, it then varies the speed and sets it's current to detect a shut off flow on your system.
By the controller monitoring the motor current it doesn't need the Pressure Switch.
A 'Spring' controller is sold by many different companies who put their own logos on it, look for a V16 controller. Not only do they manage the pump, but they use less current so helps battery life they also put less strain on the whole system.

I've had pressure switch error code on my spring controller all winter. So annoying. It went away for a few months but just came back. I bypassed the switch using a bit of wire to get on with work but was worried it might cause issues.


But based on the advice I'm reading here, it's totally fine?

I did think that if the controller can detect pressure anyway, and dead end when I close the univalve- all while the switch is bypassed - then the pressure switch isn't really necessary? Have I got that right?

I'm so sick of getting that code. There's never any air in the system and my batteries are good so pretty sure the switch has had it.

 

[ched999uk]

I've had pressure switch error code on my spring controller all winter. So annoying. It went away for a few months but just came back. I bypassed the switch using a bit of wire to get on with work but was worried it might cause issues.


But based on the advice I'm reading here, it's totally fine?

I did think that if the controller can detect pressure anyway, and dead end when I close the univalve- all while the switch is bypassed - then the pressure switch isn't really necessary? Have I got that right?

I'm so sick of getting that code. There's never any air in the system and my batteries are good so pretty sure the switch has had it.

The switch is fitted as part of the pump as they don't have to be used with a controller - I believe Surflo pumps where originally designed for caravans and motorhomes so the switch allowed the pump to shut off when a tap was closed. It's use was very infrequent and it works for that application fine.
The problem is we shut off the 'tap' (Univalve) many times an hour so if the controller isn't set up correctly (calibrated) then the pumps pressure switch will be operating many times an hour and wear out. The pumps pressure switch is usually set up to operate at 100psi.
When a controller is calibrated it measures the current flowing to the pump during normal operation and sets a max current limit. So when you close a tap or univalve the current increases above the calibrated threshold thus the controller shuts of the current to the pump.

Calibration settings will vary depending on time of year as cold water and hoses are harder whereas in summer the water is warm and so is the so they can flex - this changes the current that the controller measure to shut off the pump.

As long as you have a controller that detects Dead End (DE) when you shut off your tap or univalve and have calibrated it you don't need the pumps Pressure Switch.

Here is the calibration procedure for a Spring V16 controller:

If you have a different version of the Spring Controller (sold under many brand names) then follow the above video and go to Springs main youtube page and type in calibration to the search.

Hope that helps and doesn't confuse things.

 

[spruce]

The switch is fitted as part of the pump as they don't have to be used with a controller - I believe Surflo pumps where originally designed for caravans and motorhomes so the switch allowed the pump to shut off when a tap was closed. It's use was very infrequent and it works for that application fine.
The problem is we shut off the 'tap' (Univalve) many times an hour so if the controller isn't set up correctly (calibrated) then the pumps pressure switch will be operating many times an hour and wear out. The pumps pressure switch is usually set up to operate at 100psi.
When a controller is calibrated it measures the current flowing to the pump during normal operation and sets a max current limit. So when you close a tap or univalve the current increases above the calibrated threshold thus the controller shuts of the current to the pump.

Calibration settings will vary depending on time of year as cold water and hoses are harder whereas in summer the water is warm and so is the so they can flex - this changes the current that the controller measure to shut off the pump.

As long as you have a controller that detects Dead End (DE) when you shut off your tap or univalve and have calibrated it you don't need the pumps Pressure Switch.

Here is the calibration procedure for a Spring V16 controller:

If you have a different version of the Spring Controller (sold under many brand names) then follow the above video and go to Springs main youtube page and type in calibration to the search.

Hope that helps and doesn't confuse things.

I'm not sure why the issue would go away then come back again.

There was lots of posts on the forums at one time by those just using cheap pwm for controllers to adjust the pressure switch so it cut out sooner.

From factory a shurflo pump was set at 100 psi which gives the controller lots of scope to work with. If that p/switch has been adjusted to say 65 psi, then the controller has no gap to work within of the flow rate is increased.

To the op @TimB you don't need the pressure switch connected if using a spring controller. The cutout you set when calibrating is all to do with the amount of current the motor draws and nothing to do with monitoring the pressure switch.
When varistreams were about, they recommended disconnecting the pressure switch from the circuit.

 

[TimB]

I'm not sure why the issue would go away then come back again.

There was lots of posts on the forums at one time by those just using cheap pwm for controllers to adjust the pressure switch so it cut out sooner.

From factory a shurflo pump was set at 100 psi which gives the controller lots of scope to work with. If that p/switch has been adjusted to say 65 psi, then the controller has no gap to work within of the flow rate is increased.

To the op @TimB you don't need the pressure switch connected if using a spring controller. The cutout you set when calibrating is all to do with the amount of current the motor draws and nothing to do with monitoring the pressure switch.
When varistreams were about, they recommended disconnecting the pressure switch from the circuit.

Thanks Spruce and Ched, yeah that makes sense and confirms what I was thinking.

I'll just bypass it permanently as it works a treat whilst doing so.

I don't understand why it worked for a time and then didn't either. Im suspicious of the little white connectors that go into the pump. Think it could be a connection issue as every now and then I would wiggle them or the pump and it would come to life for a few seconds before the PS message again.

Before, I used piece of wire to bypass for a time. Then at a weekend I re connected the pressure switch and it was fine for a few months.

This time I will just keep bypassing it. Will check my connections, and maybe replace some wires etc, but I the switch triggers so often for me, mostly just for a moment, that I'm going to leave it out.

 

[spruce]

Thanks Spruce and Ched, yeah that makes sense and confirms what I was thinking.

I'll just bypass it permanently as it works a treat whilst doing so.

I don't understand why it worked for a time and then didn't either. Im suspicious of the little white connectors that go into the pump. Think it could be a connection issue as every now and then I would wiggle them or the pump and it would come to life for a few seconds before the PS message again.

Before, I used piece of wire to bypass for a time. Then at a weekend I re connected the pressure switch and it was fine for a few months.

This time I will just keep bypassing it. Will check my connections, and maybe replace some wires etc, but I the switch triggers so often for me, mostly just for a moment, that I'm going to leave it out.

It does sound like a bad connection. The controller doesn't monitor the pump's pressure switch, it just monitors the circuit from the controller, through the pressure switch and into the motor. Any break or faulty connection will show up as p/s. It will give a direction of where to look if there is a fault.