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Guest steptoe

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It all depends how much you use

5p a litre works out £10 just to fill a 200l tank or 8 25l drums which is about 8- 10 backpacks full depending on backpack size

8 days work only using 200l per day would pay for a bag of resin instead 

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42 minutes ago, steptoe said:

 

Yes 3p per litre plus VAT so 5p

No, our tax rate is 20% VAT.

So 3p + VAT is 3.6p

 

If it was 5p then the VAT rate would be 67%

Edited by spruce
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Guest steptoe
16 minutes ago, spruce said:

No, our tax rate is 20% VAT.

So 3p + VAT is 3.6p

 

If it was 5p then the VAT rate would be 67%

 

So their website pricing is wrong, as above on their site it says 3p plus vat = 5p  ??????????

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27 minutes ago, steptoe said:

 

So their website pricing is wrong, as above on their site it says 3p plus vat = 5p  ??????????

 

On the link you provided in your opening post it clearly says at the bottom.

 

£0.03 ex VAT per liter. £0.03 x 20% VAT = £0.036 per liter. So if I purchased 500 liters it would cost me £15.00 + £3.00 VAT = £18.00 in total.

 

Account holders and non account holders are charged the same price.

 

When they originally started advertising they priced a liter of water at £0.05 which I imagine was ex VAT. Spotless are promoting their product on the window cleaning show Mark Munro is organising and his advised shortly after the advert first appeared that they were going to reduce the price.

Edited by spruce
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Guest steptoe
15 hours ago, ISAAC CANTER said:

They are really good and if you set up an account you get £20 worth for free so may as well for free water

 

Would save me buying an RO System, and DI Vessell    but not sure if it would save in the long run.

 

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Signed up to this yesterday.  There aren't currently any units near me but some are planned.  Would be ideal to fill up in winter when it's freezing and I don't want to leave hoses out filling my system, or in summer if I drain my tank and want to go do another couple of hours whilst the sun shines (although you can't relate to that this week!!)

 

Really awesome idea, just needs to take off so it's more convenient.  Both planned are 40min from my home but one is sometimes near my rounds.

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Guest steptoe
On ‎08‎/‎08‎/‎2017 at 14:19, Dave B said:

Courtney who is one of the guys behind it is a nice guy

Just phone them up and ask if not sure

 

 

Hi Dave, Just done a test with my TDS Meter, and water from my tap is reading 229 would I get away with just a DI Vessel, or would I need an RO system too, and if so which one would you advice on.  Thanks Paul

Edited by steptoe
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3 hours ago, steptoe said:

 

Hi Dave, Just done a test with my TDS Meter, and water from my tap is reading 229 would I get away with just a DI Vessel, or would I need an RO system too, and if so which one would you advice on.  Thanks Paul

 

R/o.

A small r/o will produce water slowly so you need storage and transfer water from the storage tank to your van/delivery system.

 

IMHO the smallest r/o for a single window cleaner is 300gpd. Our old 450 just managed to support 2 cleaners with a lot of forward planning.

 

Now we have a 4040 we have plenty of water. I wish I had upgraded years ago. A 4021 is ample for a single operator and will produce about 1 liter of pure a minute.

Edited by spruce
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Guest steptoe
1 hour ago, spruce said:

 

R/o.

A small r/o will produce water slowly so you need storage and transfer water from the storage tank to your van/delivery system.

 

IMHO the smallest r/o for a single window cleaner is 300gpd. Our old 450 just managed to support 2 cleaners with a lot of forward planning.

 

Now we have a 4040 we have plenty of water. I wish I had upgraded years ago. A 4021 is ample for a single operator and will produce about 1 liter of pure a minute.

 

What one do you have the 40/40 or 4021 and what did you pay for it  thanks,, just need to make sure I get the right one.

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2 hours ago, steptoe said:

 

What one do you have the 40/40 or 4021 and what did you pay for it  thanks,, just need to make sure I get the right one.

I have a 4040. We needed to upgrade as we added a third cleaner and the 450gpd wasn't fast enough. The membranes were 6 years old and their efficiency was getting worse by the tankful.

 

I built it up myself the way I wanted it so ordered components that I wanted from a number of different suppliers.

 

For example I wanted 20" prefilters but wanted clear bowls so I could see the state of the filters inside at a glance. I wanted 2 pressure gauges, one at the inlet of the sediment filter and one at the exit of the carbon block filter. Our water is laden with sediment and the sediment filter sometime blocks up way before the carbon block is due for replacement.  So I can also see what restriction a dirty sediment filter is causing. Our water pressure is 50psi and when the pressure on the second gauge drops to 40 - 45psi I know the sediment filter needs changing. I can also visually see the state of it.

 

I built a cabinet for the r/o and hung it on the garage wall. It is temperature controlled. When the temp drops to 8 degrees a thermostat switches on a tube heater so I'm assured the filters don't freeze.

 

I included an inline TDS meter so I can monitor the r/o water output and also the output after the di vessel as it goes into storage. The tds meter also helps me tweak the waste so maximize r/o efficiency. (We chose to store pure water so we didn't have to each have a di vessel on the vans. We would have had to buy 4 di vessels and fill them.) The single 6 liter di vessel is also in this cabinet.

 

I also have a sub meter on the r/o inlet so I know when the change my Fiberdyne carbon block filter. I know how much water I use every month and as we run a 50/50 pure to waste ratio, I have a fairly accurate record of our monthly pure water consumption.

 

I have a float switch in the storage tank and when the tank is full a solenoid valve switches off the incoming water to the r/o. The solenoid valve is in the cabinet as well. The tank is filling now and will probably be full at around midnight. It will switch off automatically when I'm fast asleep.

 

Most importantly I fitted a Champ housing (my preference although there are cheaper housings available) and an Axeon r/o membrane. The membrane is 5 years old and still producing water at a rejection rate of 98.4%. It pays to buy the best membrane IMHO. Yes, there are cheaper Asian manufactured membranes in the market, but there are a number of w/cleaners who will testify that they haven't lived up to their expectations.

The membrane produces 2 liters of pure per minute at 50psi.

 

All in all, the r/o and the other accessories cost me just over £1000.00. That doesn't include wood for the cabinet or labour involved in it's assembly.

 

 

Edited by spruce
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On ‎09‎/‎08‎/‎2017 at 17:24, C Rose Cleaning Services said:

  Would be ideal to fill up in winter when it's freezing and I don't want to leave hoses out filling my system,

That's a use I hadn't thought of. Water retains heat well, so would be even better if they could heat the water to stop it freezing in the hose like it does in very cold conditions and a tank full of water hovering at just above zero.

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Guest steptoe
7 hours ago, Skxawng said:

That's a use I hadn't thought of. Water retains heat well, so would be even better if they could heat the water to stop it freezing in the hose like it does in very cold conditions and a tank full of water hovering at just above zero.

 

How long will pure water last in a tank, before it starts to go bad.

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1 minute ago, steptoe said:

 

How long will pure water last in a tank, before it starts to go bad.

Not a clue, a lot will depend on how clean your tank is and what temperature it's kept at. Best guess would be circa 3 months. Left mine for 3 weeks, summer holiday, and had no problems 

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