After weeks of using the liquidator...

[fenderjaguar]

The issue is that the dog ear is setup for the most extreme situation. And that setup isn't needed for the majority of windows. Setting it up for the most exteme situations by default creates a few problems; It wears out the ends of the rubber too quickly, because that part of the rubber is being forced against the glass/rubber seals too much. It simply isn't needed when you're blading across open glass where there's no edges. And it isn't even needed for the edges on the majority of windows.

I've also found that it has a habit of pulling the end of the rubber under the dog ear when turning, and this causes problems by making the squeegee hard to turn and also leaving lines on the window in some cases in itself (I say that because it's not just the ends of the rubber wearing away that does that). Now, the lines are especially an issue in direct sunlight, because the sun bakes them on. I'm sure most of you aren't thinking these lines are an issue because they are drying up, but I find if you go inside and look at the window, it shows up. And it shows up even worse in direct sunlight as well, naturally.

Really, I find this is minimised by holding the squeegee closer to the window, or using a near 0 degree angle handle (I've actually bent my own plastic contico high rise handle to near 10 or 15 degrees or so). Really, I can't understand why people ever started saying the liquidator channels were good for 40 degree angles? When you have your rubber almost flat on the glass with a 0 degree, it's so much easier to turn, because the rubber can't be pulled underneath, that's why it jumps. But I obviously don't like using a squeegee at this angle, because it's hard on your wrist, when you have to compensate when cleaning windows just above your head.

Really, I think the answer to this is either an adjustable dog ear. I could imagine this being done with a self tapping/semi thread locked screw pushed through at the dog ear from the other side). Or you could have several different sizes of dog ear, and put the most extreme ones on for any extreme rubber seals you encounter. Or carry 2 squeegees, one with a light dog ear, one with an extreme dog ear.

In any case, I've really had to stop using the liquidator, most of the time. It's excellent for what it can do and I've learnt a lot from it, and am now fashioning my own channels with a less extreme dog ear. But I still carry a little 10" liquidator round, for the extreme rubber seals. I just hope they make them with different sizes of dog ears for different kinds of rubber seals.

Sorry, for the wall of text, I'm a fast typer

 

[boarcity]

The issue is that the dog ear is setup for the most extreme situation. And that setup isn't needed for the majority of windows. Setting it up for the most exteme situations by default creates a few problems; It wears out the ends of the rubber too quickly, because that part of the rubber is being forced against the glass/rubber seals too much. It simply isn't needed when you're blading across open glass where there's no edges. And it isn't even needed for the edges on the majority of windows.

i agree the initial angle of the tip ends is a tad extreme. But they "bed in " with use . i found after 2 weeks of day to day use the plastic softened some, as the plastic takes its daily beating it loses its initial "shtick"- the tip angle then decreased to suit my own particular way of working.thats something no other squeegee does , mould to your individual style

 

[boarcity]

View attachment 4298 ive also found that the black surface finish of the channel itself is slowly wearing off-but in a good way.

my main 14 incher channel is now developing an attractive used-in-action patina that looks very similar to "gun barrel blue"

 

[paulio]

I seemed to be having the same problem in regards to leaving lines, even on a newly cut rubber. Can anyone relate to this? It don't seem to be a problem on my other squeegees.

 

[boarcity]

you have to have a strong hand with the liquidator when it is new . to break her in so to speak.

 

[fenderjaguar]

i agree the initial angle of the tip ends is a tad extreme. But they "bed in " with use . i found after 2 weeks of day to day use the plastic softened some, as the plastic takes its daily beating it loses its initial "shtick"- the tip angle then decreased to suit my own particular way of working.thats something no other squeegee does , mould to your individual style

That's interesting, but something I've not noticed myself. I mean, if they really bent back, then it would mean it would end up not being able to do certain rubber seals. With mine, it still does even the most extreme rubber seals

my main 14 incher channel is now developing an attractive used-in-action patina that looks very similar to "gun barrel blue"

Yeah, that's what anodised aluminium does, it looks pretty damn nice if you ask me too.

I seemed to be having the same problem in regards to leaving lines, even on a newly cut rubber. Can anyone relate to this? It don't seem to be a problem on my other squeegees.

If you try that same channel/blade in a 0 degree and use it by hand, you'll notice it probably won't do that. I've tried to take pictures to show others what we are talking about, but it's very hard to capture.

What happens is that whenever the squeegee is turned, the end of the rubber gets pulled slightly more under the dog ear, then picks a little water up and drags it along your next sideways pull.

 

[Smurf]

Did you buy from the first batch or after as I thought it was due to the gap in the tips not gripping the rubber properly.

 

[james44]

fenderjaguar Stick the channel onto a wagtail handle works fine no issues!

 

[fenderjaguar]

Did you buy from the first batch or after as I thought it was due to the gap in the tips not gripping the rubber properly.

Yeah, it was the first batch. But mine have been pinched like crazy. I've even tried glueing it in. It's more to do with where the rubber makes contact with the apex of the dog ear (not where the rubber would normally be held in place at the U-shaped bottom of the channel).

It really isn't an issue in cool and cloudy weather for me. But like I said, it was especially noticable when baked on by the sun (we had some decent weather a week or so ago, like 20 degrees C +)

 

[fenderjaguar]

fenderjaguar Stick the channel onto a wagtail handle works fine no issues!

To be honest, I've never used a wagtail. Is it permanently on swivel? What degree angle is it?

 

[Smurf]

Are you using their soft rubber that came with it still ?

Yeah, it was the first batch. But mine have been pinched like crazy. I've even tried glueing it in. It's more to do with where the rubber makes contact with the apex of the dog ear (not where the rubber would normally be held in place at the U-shaped bottom of the channel).
It really isn't an issue in cool and cloudy weather for me. But like I said, it was especially noticable when baked on by the sun (we had some decent weather a week or so ago, like 20 degrees C +)

 

[james44]

To be honest, I've never used a wagtail. Is it permanently on swivel? What degree angle is it?

If you don`t want it on swivel just tighten the screw don`t know the degree angle but works without having to do any modifying!

 

[fenderjaguar]

Are you using their soft rubber that came with it still ?

I've still got that rubber, but I've used it with pulex hard and unger hard. They all do the same thing, but the unger one is worse, since it's almost slipping under the dog ear to begin with (since it's not the same width as the pulex or moerman rubber)

 

[boarcity]

a closer view of mineView attachment 4307

 

[fenderjaguar]

I guess I can't argue with that, boarcity!

Maybe I need to be moer heavy handed :thumbsup:

 

[boarcity]

i hadnt noticed if much extra hand pressure was needed, but the lad who works for me did ,he commented on it to me

 

[Dave B]

I haven't ever had to use more pressure

I guess everyone is different and what works for one doesn't necessarily work for another

 

[fenderjaguar]

i hadnt noticed if much extra hand pressure was needed, but the lad who works for me did ,he commented on it to me

Are you sure he hasn't been dipping the clips in a hot cup of tea behind your back? /emoticons/biggrin.png

 

[boarcity]

Are you sure he hasn't been dipping the clips in a hot cup of tea behind your back? /emoticons/biggrin.png

but would he ever admit it ? ? the other 2 lads who work for me wont even try the new channel out, why? i gave them each the brand new squeegees [wag fitted with moer] expecting them to be impressed[first brand new squeegee they ever had-up till now theyv had hand-me-downs that every tom ,tit n monkeyboy had used previous ] but they didnt want to even pick one up ,weird

 

[captainzoom]

Got my liquidator last week but haven't had any time to test it out until now. But I must say I'm a happy camper. Edges are perfect. Even on superslim rubber seals. But I struggled a bit with stripes/lines and loose clips in the beginning. So I did the "teacup" mod and things started to workout better. And the rubber actually stayed in place...

Some observations:

- It seems like the liquidator works best with a little bit more soap for additional glide.

- It doesn't play nice if you hit a dry spot. Especially if it's near the endclip.

- No kidding. You have to be very precise with the angle to make it work well.

- Moerman Soft feels a bit too soft. (Used to Ettore rubbers.) But the Ettore rubber feel a bit too hard in the Liquidator. So I'll try to get my hands on some Facelift Razrblade Red since many people seem happy with it in the Liquidator.

 

[boarcity]

i live in a hard water area and at each house before i leave van i dip Tbar in bucket then run a line of washing up liquid onto the t bar .