Gardiner Spray Bar ...

[Pjj]

Maybe a better reflection of it.

View attachment 15313

Maybe Ime missing something hear but when cleaning the frame above the glass it looks to me that the spray bar will be hitting the lintel above the window as quite often the stk k of the brush is touching it so it looks to me that the spray bar will get in the way and worse still put water on the lintel and possibly the wall ?... 

 

[Den]

When cleaning the frame above the glass press firmly and the jets will hit the back of the bristles and run down the back of the brush so no overspray easy peasy only being using them myselfthis week and can honestly say they are brilliant.

take a chance a try one, just like the univalve, electric reel etc they will speed your work up no end why finish at 3.30 when you can finish a hour or two earlier knowing you rinse is probably better than using pencils jets. 

Monday my first two job were bungalows both had Connie each were 8 weekly they wasn’t  rotten far from it but the perfect opportunity to check my work absolutely perfect, gave me the confidence to fly thru my work all week checking the rinse for on most downstairs windows for tiny bit of **** etc. 

 

[Gasket]

Bit confused by all the brushes etc ... as a new wfp er with only a six months experience, would love to see a video detailing your best set up for maintenance cleAns and showing your improvised technique for the rinse-bar


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[Eric Gilliand]

Question? For those of you guys with the first spray bar that find it uses too much water, why not just close off every second hole?

 

[paulwills]

When cleaning the frame above the glass press firmly and the jets will hit the back of the bristles and run down the back of the brush so no overspray easy peasy only being using them myselfthis week and can honestly say they are brilliant.
 
take a chance a try one, just like the univalve, electric reel etc they will speed your work up no end why finish at 3.30 when you can finish a hour or two earlier knowing you rinse is probably better than using pencils jets. 
 
Monday my first two job were bungalows both had Connie each were 8 weekly they wasn’t  rotten far from it but the perfect opportunity to check my work absolutely perfect, gave me the confidence to fly thru my work all week checking the rinse for on most downstairs windows for tiny bit of **** etc. 

Definitely speeding work up I’m at least an hour in front every day


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[spruce]

Bit confused by all the brushes etc ... as a new wfp er with only a six months experience, would love to see a video detailing your best set up for maintenance cleAns and showing your improvised technique for the rinse-bar


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Don't worry. With so many brushes available its easy to get confused with what to chose. The problem is also that what works for one cleaner doesn't work for another.

Currently I have a flocked brush for leaded windows and use an Ultimate with DuPont bristles as my main brush. But I interchange that with the Ultimate with medium bristles (yellow). My son works with a stiff brush which I don't like.

The old standard cill brush works well but I find is heavy.

I had a stiff extreme on my 40' SLX but changed that for a heavier Supreme soft bristles as that brush works better at height due to its better splay. Alex is discontinuing them so they are on special atm. I need to order a replacement for stock.

I ordered an overhead spray bar a while back. It was good for a large commercial job we do but the overhead spray brings down dirt from above the window in some residential applications. I quite like the idea of this low pressure rinse bar, but believe you really need to use it in conjunction with a brush that swivels,

 

[paul alan]

I bet that rinse bar is great for rinsing?

It's awesome, I reverted back to the 32 hole rinse bar last night as yesterday I became aware that the low pressure was a bit "splashy".

I have had to turn the flow up some but with the speed at which you can work at its no bother.

The rinse really does need to clear the bristles though, I was watching the rinse through the window last night and observed whats happening. The rinse basically forms a loop when coming from the bar, it projects out to the glass and then hits the window before running down the bristles and back down to the stock of the brush. If the water doesnt clear the bristles and hits the splay first it mostly runs down the bristle and misses the glass.

 

[paul alan]

I find the rinse bar gives a more controlled rinse and better results, you do absolutely need a swivel. the latest gardiner version being far superior.

Just turn your brush sideways for the top frames, its very effective.

 

[WfpTen]

Quick question, are you doing the three passes, wet, agitate,rinse or just one?

 

[paul alan]

Quick question, are you doing the three passes, wet, agitate,rinse or just one?

Two agitations, rinse is combined with agitations.

 

[WfpTen]

Thanks!

From what I'm reading the 2nd agitation would be at an angle, correct?

 

[spruce]

Thanks!

From what I'm reading the 2nd agitation would be at an angle, correct?

What you do is to try different methods yourself and settle on what works best for you.

What works for a cleaner inland might not work for us on the coast. Another cleaner might have an unlimited supply of water where you might need to be more frugal.

We were fortunate as we had a council property that we cleaned over a weekend when no one was about. We used that to test different cleaning methods as we could see the results whilst we were still there cleaning.

In our coastal area we need to clean the glass twice and rinse very well. At height you can only really make vertical strokes and zigzag down the glass with the swivel action to rinse. We have always rinsed off the glass. It was from the early days when we only had flocked oval vikans as the main brush option. Any trapped dirt in the bristles wouldn't affect the quality of the rinse if you rinsed off the glass. This is why rinsing on the glass is a difficult concept for me.

 

[WfpTen]

Thanks for that Spruce.

I bought the rinse bar because out here nearly every single pane is hydrophobic (some more than others). Having seen and read information about them being good for this type of glass I went ahead and bought it.

I'm using it on a fixed brush (no swivel) doing the whole wet, agitate and rinse process. So when I read here that some were finding it faster I was intrigued as to their technique.

I also rinse off the glass but seeing the flow on the glass I'm coming around the idea of rinsing on the glass at least with a rinse bar.

 

[Daniel Perkins]

Does the rinse bar just come in 26cm? Only size I can see of Gardiner website.

 

[Pjj]

Maybe a better reflection of it.

View attachment 15313

So are you rinsing whilst cleaning or do you do all the window then rinse again ? Like you would with pencil jets ? 

 

[Den]

Does the rinse bar just come in 26cm? Only size I can see of Gardiner website.

ATM only in 26cm I have the low pressure version works great but don't have a 26cm standard so can't compare them.

 

[spruce]

Thanks for that Spruce.

I bought the rinse bar because out here nearly every single pane is hydrophobic (some more than others). Having seen and read information about them being good for this type of glass I went ahead and bought it.

I'm using it on a fixed brush (no swivel) doing the whole wet, agitate and rinse process. So when I read here that some were finding it faster I was intrigued as to their technique.

I also rinse off the glass but seeing the flow on the glass I'm coming around the idea of rinsing on the glass at least with a rinse bar.

I honestly believe that you must find your own pace and then build on that. It will take time to get quicker. A customer also expects value for money and if he sees you are too quick then he will believe you aren't cleaning properly even if you are.

If you are new, adding an overhead rinse bar isn't going to make you 10 times quicker. It was suggested many years ago that you time yourself and see how long it takes you to clean an ordinary window. Just count 0ne thousand and one, etc. Once you have established a time then try to do that window 5 secs quicker. Once you achieve that doing a good job then knock another 5 secs off the time.

We sat in the van one day and watched a flash cleaner start cleaning the house he parked up outside of. He was so fast on each window that that he didn't even get into the corner of the frame. After he left I inspected his finished clean. It was terrible. I would have been embarrassed to put a ticket through the door if that was my clean.

I believe it often takes longer to flush the muck out of the gap between the cill and the frame than it does to clean the whole window. One of the local lads just wipes the cill down with a cloth where I spend much longer flushing the muck out. I wouldn't be happy with not flushing the muck out, but no one has complained about his not doing it.

One of the local franchisees insists the gap is cleaned out as part of the service agreement. The guys have a Muc-off claw brush which they use for downstairs to do the job.

 

[paul alan]

Thanks!

From what I'm reading the 2nd agitation would be at an angle, correct?

Depends on the shape of the window, if its narrow you can just go up and down. If its wide you can side to side.

 

[scottish cleaning service]

Would it be better to get the long angle adapter Gooseneck when using the rinse bar? 

 

[paul alan]

Would it be better to get the long angle adapter Gooseneck when using the rinse bar? 

No, only need a swivel with a close to brush pivot.

 

[RyeCleanLiam]

Will give this brush a try tomorrow


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How did you get on with the rinse bar on the universal brush?