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Moerman Liquidator

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Looks like the rubber bulb may be tracking inside the clip. Rubber angle cut slightly out?
The rubber was all cut fine eric, it was as it came from cleaning spot/moerman and its the same as the vids. The fix has done it. I would have been gutted if I had to send it back.

View attachment 6208They are the same angle tolish
So can you straighted out the liquidator handle up to a 0degree squeegee? If so this might sort my issue.

 
Blue button on the hinge..press in to change between 0 and 30°

and big blue kn ob is to allow you to swivel like a swiveloc to change the angle of the channel on the handle..or to use like my 0° but it would eventually wear the bumps that grip both parts together imo so would just end up having one for that purpose

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VA_Ag0Gc4WM[/media]

 
Didn't realise the handle swivelled and different angles, think I'm going to have to get one saves work molding mine lol

 
Doubt you could wag with it though as it is so loose and pivots the same style as a swiveloc

 
Liquidator has arrived.I like it a lot however rubber is much to soft for me and I think I need to get hard one, this doesn't work for me...

 
My Liquidator arrived today, after 10 days. I already have angle cut channels, one in a Wagtail. So, to be on the safe side, I replaced the rubber with an Unger hard. I had an initial problem as I don't use quick release handles so put it into a Pulex one. As already said on here, the rubber is not held, so I put a bit of nylon tie underneath up into the plastic end. So all that done, it worked perfect. I got the 10 inch, which is too small, should've got the 14, but I don't think I'll spend £16 to get one. I shall try this one as it is now tomorrow, and perhaps try it in a Wagtail after that.

Well done to Moerman to take notice of a suggestion and carry it through to make this channel, it will help people in the future who perhaps are not too handy at modifying.

 
If you find it doesn't glide well try the moerman rubber as it is a touch longer from front to back so a touch more sticks out the front

 
If you find it doesn't glide well try the moerman rubber as it is a touch longer from front to back so a touch more sticks out the front
Yes, I realised that, but I like the Ungers, so I'll keep the moerman till a bit later on. I know I've read it somewhere, but can you take the plastic bits off?

 
You can but the size of the channel and how it is designed to hold the clips i don't think it would be any good as a normal channel

I have been using unger hard all day with them with no problems

Think i might go back to soft until it warms up a bit more though as first thing in the mornings it is a bit too stiff at the mo

 
You can but the size of the channel and how it is designed to hold the clips i don't think it would be any good as a normal channelI have been using unger hard all day with them with no problems

Think i might go back to soft until it warms up a bit more though as first thing in the mornings it is a bit too stiff at the mo
Well we all have that problem!! Cheers

 
I wondered how long it would take when i read back what i had posted..ooh err missus..nay nay and thrice nay

 
Haven't yet ordered one as I want to wait for the new mod on clips to be done.was wondering if the fire red blaze rubber i use will be ok

 
So now I have had a good few hours with the liquidators (10 & 14 inch) i thought i would post some observations that might help some. took me a while to get to used to it but now i think have a couple of techniques sussed.

MOVEMENT: clearly there has been a lot of thought gone into the design and these are precision tools, to me the liquidators are not that forgiving if you don't use the correct technique. I found that any movement that caused the blade or part of the blade to push across the glass rather than pull caused issues with either residue left or jumping. The main culprate was large or exaggerated fanning motions where you usually end up "steering" the blade in too tight a curve at the end of each fan. When turning too tight a curve you tend to pivot the blade on the glass and one end of the channel will travel across the glass in the correct direction (pulling) but the other will (push) in the wrong direction. By using shallower turns, avoiding dive bombing and not trying to turn the blade on the spot all helped reduce problems with jumping and residue being left on the middle of the glass.

PRESSURE: I found i had to use much less pressure on the blade against the glass. A fairly light pressure worked best and i expect this will have the added advantage of making rubbers last longer rather than my old modded Ungers that I had to press quite hard with in comparison. Also using a lighter pressure i was able to feel the blade against the window rubber so I knew if i was "drifting" over the rubber or off it altogether. out of interest my modded 14inch unger weights 205grams the 14 inch liquidator in an Eurotec handle come in at 143 grams, this weight difference was quite noticeable and the feeling of the blade on the glass and bumping the rubber was much "clearer" than with my Ungers.

CLIP MOD: I found the Polznblades mod of squeezing the end clips tighter to grip the rubber, made a significant improvement to the tools ability to perform with the tighter turns, i'm not going to order any more channels until Meorman release the updated version.

EYE FORWARD: This might sound an odd one but trust me it helped alot, i found that when i made conscious effort to look at the corner of the frame ahead of where i was running the squeegee tip to, rather than look at the tip of the squeegee itself, the accuracy of my eye hand coordination was much better, and the leading tip of channel followed the rubber seal perfectly.

sorry guys if ihave rambled on a bit, but maybe someone will find this useful. (better get the jacket potatoes int he oven now) cheers

 
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