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[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uR9SGOkus-0[/media]So any one tried using it on a pole??Everyone's taking about how it goes by hand.
Anyone give some sort of review on how the Liquidator works on a pole.?
1st floor normal windows any size and above conservatory on ladder
its a gamechanger . 20 or 30 minutes timesaved each working day says it all to me.looking closely at the channel profile and design of channel itself and clip design shows me that the designers at moerman are skilled
defo less washing than before .More to the point how many scrims are you now having to wash in an evening now the lads and yourself are using liquidator channels?
I was interested in what you said about pressure. I hadn't thought about that much, but sounded like a good idea. So, today, my first day after altering the blue ends, it was working right, so I tried it. You have to be conscious of not putting pressure, but it did work. Next time I change rubbers I'm going to put in a soft (as I always use hard Ungers).So now I have had a good few hours with the liquidators (10 & 14 inch) i thought i would post some observations that might help some. took me a while to get to used to it but now i think have a couple of techniques sussed.
MOVEMENT: clearly there has been a lot of thought gone into the design and these are precision tools, to me the liquidators are not that forgiving if you don't use the correct technique. I found that any movement that caused the blade or part of the blade to push across the glass rather than pull caused issues with either residue left or jumping. The main culprate was large or exaggerated fanning motions where you usually end up "steering" the blade in too tight a curve at the end of each fan. When turning too tight a curve you tend to pivot the blade on the glass and one end of the channel will travel across the glass in the correct direction (pulling) but the other will (push) in the wrong direction. By using shallower turns, avoiding dive bombing and not trying to turn the blade on the spot all helped reduce problems with jumping and residue being left on the middle of the glass.
PRESSURE: I found i had to use much less pressure on the blade against the glass. A fairly light pressure worked best and i expect this will have the added advantage of making rubbers last longer rather than my old modded Ungers that I had to press quite hard with in comparison. Also using a lighter pressure i was able to feel the blade against the window rubber so I knew if i was "drifting" over the rubber or off it altogether. out of interest my modded 14inch unger weights 205grams the 14 inch liquidator in an Eurotec handle come in at 143 grams, this weight difference was quite noticeable and the feeling of the blade on the glass and bumping the rubber was much "clearer" than with my Ungers.
CLIP MOD: I found the Polznblades mod of squeezing the end clips tighter to grip the rubber, made a significant improvement to the tools ability to perform with the tighter turns, i'm not going to order any more channels until Meorman release the updated version.
EYE FORWARD: This might sound an odd one but trust me it helped alot, i found that when i made conscious effort to look at the corner of the frame ahead of where i was running the squeegee tip to, rather than look at the tip of the squeegee itself, the accuracy of my eye hand coordination was much better, and the leading tip of channel followed the rubber seal perfectly.
sorry guys if ihave rambled on a bit, but maybe someone will find this useful. (better get the jacket potatoes int he oven now) cheers
after using heavy old stainless steel channels I find these lightweight ali channels a delight to use, I can feel the edges and rubber seals much more precisely as i move the channel over the glass. to me thats a big bonus the liquidators have over other channels.I was interested in what you said about pressure. I hadn't thought about that much, but sounded like a good idea. So, today, my first day after altering the blue ends, it was working right, so I tried it. You have to be conscious of not putting pressure, but it did work. Next time I change rubbers I'm going to put in a soft (as I always use hard Ungers).