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Oil change due, what grade oil?
- Thread starter Carts69
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scottish cleaning service
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Ben at Rutland told me to use Comma Gear Oil EP80W-90 GL-4 Mineral.
Think it cost £20 odds for 5 litres, hardly use any.
For my B&S engine I use fully synthetic 5w 30 engine oil fully synthetic.
Change it every few years or so.
Think it cost £20 odds for 5 litres, hardly use any.
For my B&S engine I use fully synthetic 5w 30 engine oil fully synthetic.
Change it every few years or so.
ched999uk
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Read the manuals if no manual check manufacturers Web site.
Engine oil - look for a fully synthetic not part synthetic. It's not like you need lots. If the spec says an API spec then ideally go better. Ie if it says API SG then go SH or higher letter. S stands for spark ignition second letter - higher letter the better spec. Also make sure viscosity is as close to spec as possible, maybe go with lower numbers as that's thinner oil so flows round easier on starting.
Also change oil more frequently than they say will make everything last longer.
The pumps using EP (Extreme Pressure) oils because of the high pressures in the pump don't neglect changing that oil too.
Usually best to warm machine up before changing oil as old will drain easier.
Engine oil - look for a fully synthetic not part synthetic. It's not like you need lots. If the spec says an API spec then ideally go better. Ie if it says API SG then go SH or higher letter. S stands for spark ignition second letter - higher letter the better spec. Also make sure viscosity is as close to spec as possible, maybe go with lower numbers as that's thinner oil so flows round easier on starting.
Also change oil more frequently than they say will make everything last longer.
The pumps using EP (Extreme Pressure) oils because of the high pressures in the pump don't neglect changing that oil too.
Usually best to warm machine up before changing oil as old will drain easier.
Thanks for info, now.. regarding the engine oil... do you know why their are twin dipsticks on this engine.. as see in picture?
ched999uk
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No idea why 2 dip sticks, my guess would be that it's so anyone building stuff with that engine has more flexibility on mounting.
I would warm up engine, check oil level on both dip sticks, drain oil, check to see level on both dipsticks has dropped just in case there are are 2 sections to the oil system but I would think that's very unusual.
ched999uk
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Just in case you didn't know, try and avoid E10 fuel as it's hydroscopic (absorbs water) . So if you don't use it for a while like over winter drain the fuel out, or use E5 fuel.
scottish cleaning service
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Usually one for engine oil and one for gear oil. Usually two places for gear oil to enter but they both flow into same place.
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Don’t think it’s twin dip sticks the one on the top is fill which will have a dip stick level on it the one on the side is the drain plug , or that’s what it is on mine .
Ah.. that was a question I was gonna post up next, thanks for clearing that up as I was wondering. I’ve recently used the E10 but luckily the machine ran dry right at the end of the job hence dry carb over winter. Thanks ?
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AW Services
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Two points of access and there's only one low point of the crankshaft housing which is the sump.
Do you know you can ask Google questions and get answers?
Don't mean that in a nasty way. Just helps improve ones knowledge base
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