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Ro or stick to di

WCF

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You really need to know your tds and your tap pressure. I would say if you are using half a bag of resin a month then an RO would be a good way to go. At current prices DI must be costing you about £600 a year! With RO you will still need some resin but 97% of your tds will be removed before the DI. You will however use more water as an RO needs to have the waste flowing at between 50% and 70% of the pure output.

The RO you linked to is quite small, it mentions 450GPD so that's 450US Gallons per day so about 1,800 litres a day but I thinks that's total water throughput over a 24 hr period. So about 45litres per hour is the best you could hope to achieve which would probably be OK for you as long as you have space to store the pure.
 
You really need to know your tds and your tap pressure. I would say if you are using half a bag of resin a month then an RO would be a good way to go. At current prices DI must be costing you about £600 a year! With RO you will still need some resin but 97% of your tds will be removed before the DI. You will however use more water as an RO needs to have the waste flowing at between 50% and 70% of the pure output.

The RO you linked to is quite small, it mentions 450GPD so that's 450US Gallons per day so about 1,800 litres a day but I thinks that's total water throughput over a 24 hr period. So about 45litres per hour is the best you could hope to achieve which would probably be OK for you as long as you have space to store the pure.
My tds is around the 80 mark dont know what the tap pressure is but it’s quite good I think ? at the moment I just use 25 litre barrels I use 30 a week roughly, , I presume a tank would be better to fill and easier , thanks for the reply
 
My tds is around the 80 mark dont know what the tap pressure is but it’s quite good I think ? at the moment I just use 25 litre barrels I use 30 a week roughly, , I presume a tank would be better to fill and easier , thanks for the reply
When I started I used a 150GPD RO with a booster and used a couple of water butts to store it in. Using the water butts with an electronic float switch I could automatically stop the booster and close the inlet valve. I used a 25l/min 12v pump to go from butts to the barrels in my car.
 
You really need to know your tds and your tap pressure. I would say if you are using half a bag of resin a month then an RO would be a good way to go. At current prices DI must be costing you about £600 a year! With RO you will still need some resin but 97% of your tds will be removed before the DI. You will however use more water as an RO needs to have the waste flowing at between 50% and 70% of the pure output.

The RO you linked to is quite small, it mentions 450GPD so that's 450US Gallons per day so about 1,800 litres a day but I thinks that's total water throughput over a 24 hr period. So about 45litres per hour is the best you could hope to achieve which would probably be OK for you as long as you have space to store the pure.
I had a 450gpd before I replaced it with a 4040. With an empty 1000 IBC tank, it took all weekend to fill it. I didn't have a booster pump and water pressure was around 40psi at the time. With planning, it managed to just keep up with 2 of us, with son having a day off in the week (only working 4 days). I had to fill my van on Saturday and fill his van on Sunday. Probably the only time that r/o switched off was on Monday afternoon before I came back from work. I then filled my van on Monday evening and son's on Tuesday morning. If we had good weather, then I wouldn't be able to fill both vans at the end of the week; I would 1/2 fill mine and 3/4's fill sons'. (My van had a 650 litre tank and his van a 500 litre tank.)

My recommendation to anyone established changing to wfp or going over to r/o is to go for a used 1000 IBC tank, a 4040 r/o and a float switch and solenoid valve.
As per you, if my IBC tank is filling overnight, it will just switch the r/o off automatically when the IBC is full.
 
I'm in same position and glad I went for full RO system in van. Don't need to buy resin each year because it gets changed with my annual service. You will be glad when you go down the RO route as long as you have the room for it.
In the soft water area, you are in if using a R/O you don't need any resin.

Anyone in a soft water area with a tap tds of around 80ppm is better off financially over the long term after the initial outlay of R/O tank and sub pump plus the cost to replace pre-filter's it is far cheaper when a bag of Tulsion resin is £113.50 a bag x 6 in @gwindows case is £681 annually that's over 6k over 10 years the cost of buying and running a R/O etc wouldn't get much over 1k over 10 years.
 
What's the difference between the two?
The speed it produces water.

I mentioned how a 450gpd r/o would give me more than enough water to use daily, but it was a challenge when my son joined me. It didn't work when son-in-law also joined us, where, with the 4040 we never ran short of water.

One of the local lads has a 300gpd r/o with a booster pump. On its own without the booster pump, that r/o doesn't keep up with his water needs.
 
In the soft water area, you are in if using a R/O you don't need any resin.

Anyone in a soft water area with a tap tds of around 80ppm is better off financially over the long term after the initial outlay of R/O tank and sub pump plus the cost to replace pre-filter's it is far cheaper when a bag of Tulsion resin is £113.50 a bag x 6 in @gwindows case is £681 annually that's over 6k over 10 years the cost of buying and running a R/O etc wouldn't get much over 1k over 10 years.
My RO takes my TDS down to 002 so you are probably correct. Its in the service to change my resin so leaves nothing to worry about.
 
I had to move into my Mum's to look after her for a while, I took the RO with me, her pressure was about 40 PSI I struggled to make water it was like a trickle. (i couldn't do much work at the time so it didn't matter) Mine at home is 50 PSI and I easily make enough water to keep going here.
 
The speed it produces water.

I mentioned how a 450gpd r/o would give me more than enough water to use daily, but it was a challenge when my son joined me. It didn't work when son-in-law also joined us, where, with the 4040 we never ran short of water.

One of the local lads has a 300gpd r/o with a booster pump. On its own without the booster pump, that r/o doesn't keep up with his water needs.
I'm going to get one myself as I've worked out that it's costing me quite a lot in time and money so having it ready made to transfer will make my life a lot easier, less hassle and cheaper.

I need 350 litres per day, ideally I don't want the thing running all day and night. Which system out of the two would be best to go for? My water is around 65ppm, I'm on a meter.
 
If you are filling straight into barrels then it’s a no. Producing water into a holding tank then transferring it that would work.

Pure Freedom is a 3 stage filter which in my opinion is not required as the GAC filter is more for taste for drinking water.

We do a two stage 450 gpd at 30 psi does around a litre every 2mins 10 secs. The higher the ppm then more product will be produced.
 
If you are filling straight into barrels then it’s a no. Producing water into a holding tank then transferring it that would work.

Pure Freedom is a 3 stage filter which in my opinion is not required as the GAC filter is more for taste for drinking water.

We do a two stage 450 gpd at 30 psi does around a litre every 2mins 10 secs. The higher the ppm then more product will be produced.
If I ran the business then I would be putting in a link for folk to access it. ?
 
I don't understand why the R/O is only taking the tds down to 002ppm if your tap tds is around 70-80ppm my R/O takes mine down to 000ppm with a similar tap tds
It depends on the composition of the dissolved solids in his water.
If your r/o is operating at a 98 to 99% rejection rate, then you are bound to have a 1 or 2ppm of pure.

I probably wouldn't put our tds meters in laboratory class with regards to accuracy either. They are good enough to monitor the water quality we need to clean windows.
 
I don't understand why the R/O is only taking the tds down to 002ppm if your tap tds is around 70-80ppm my R/O takes mine down to 000ppm with a similar tap tds
Would you still clean windows with 002? I’m predominantly trad. But do use my wfp on some windows and have used it up to 008? Checked them and they’ve been fine.
 
Would you still clean windows with 002? I’m predominantly trad. But do use my wfp on some windows and have used it up to 008? Checked them and they’ve been fine.
Be careful you'll have the TDS Police on here after you. We change resin when the TDS gets to 5. A lot of our work is 3 monthly and it is fine to use it at that level.
 

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