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Shurflo Pump connector overheating

WCF

Help Support WCF:

Totally new to this forum and would really appreciate any advice on this issue I'm having.

I have a very basic setup using a car battery to run a 100psi shurflo Pump.

I have attached a pic of a brand new pump that within days of use is having issues with the connector.

Looks like it's overheating and now needs fiddled about with to get it to go again. ?

I've been dealing with 1st cleans and had pump cranked up to 100%.

Surely the pump can cope with this or am I missing something ?

Many thanks in advance as really need to get this going asap thank you
 

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Totally new to this forum and would really appreciate any advice on this issue I'm having.

I have a very basic setup using a car battery to run a 100psi shurflo Pump.

I have attached a pic of a brand new pump that within days of use is having issues with the connector.

Looks like it's overheating and now needs fiddled about with to get it to go again. ?

I've been dealing with 1st cleans and had pump cranked up to 100%.

Surely the pump can cope with this or am I missing something ?

Many thanks in advance as really need to get this going asap thank you
By cranking to pump up to 100% you obviously have a controller. What controller do you have?

If you have a spring derivative controller then you can cut the terminals off the 2 red wires and join them together, this bypassing the pump's pressure switch.

You don't need full flow when doing first cleans. A flow rate of 30 to 40 is more than ample.

You will also need to recalibrate your controller as it will be you new pressure switch.

The higher the flow rate the harder the pump has to work for very little gain. You may have a 5lpm pump but you will never get 5lpm through the brush head.

The harder the pump has to work, the higher the amperage it draws. A poor connection will be where there is resistance to current which will cause heat.

I suggest you look at this thread to understand how flow rate and increase of pressure relate:
 
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That looks to me like you have 2 issues.
First is the pressure switch connection was very poor creating a high resistance which causes heat. I'm guessing that that was a factory issue unless you removed and reinserted the Pressure Switch connection?
Secondly, you say you have a controller - most controllers will monitor the current and shut off when you close the connection to the brush i.e. via univalve, tap, or a stop end connection. This stops the Pressure Switch being needed, these pressure switches are more of a safety cut out but will eventually the microswitch will fail as they are designed for a few uses a day in a caravan, motorhome or boat, not maybe 100 uses per day when window cleaning. Make sure you set up the controller - Dead End and calibration at your desired flow.

Personally I would take the microswitch out and make sure the connections are clean. Remake the burnt connector with a new one. Set my pump controller to detect dead end and calibrate if you have that facility. I am surprised you need 100% flow, what jets are you using and isn't it bouncing back off the windows at such a high flow?
 
He doesn't mention that he has a controller I assume he doesn't and hasn't spent too much on his set up which is why the pump looks bungeed to the tank
This did concern me when I posted my response. But he said he cranked his pump up to 100%. But he could have one of those cheap PWM controllers. If that's the case then he will have to follow @ched999uk advise checking the microswitch and replace his push on terminals if the microswitch is OK.

And let's just hope that his tank is securely fitted.
 
Wow
Thanks so much everyone for the responses.
I know this sounds made up but the situation is I have taken over a family members round who has now moved away. I got his setup and did away with the old pump as you had to mess about with connections to get it going again.

I know nothing about calibrating pump so I'm going to have a search on here for that and read that thread too on increasing flow.

As for the jets I have the red Gardiner 50 degree fan jets I'm told.
It's just so frustrating doing first cleans with cobwebs and dirt slowly making its way down glass. That's why I cranked pump up ?

I need to get pump secured properly I can see that too guys so appreciate the suggestions.


Maybe I should do away with the pumps flow switch and get a spring controller. Just not sure what to look for . I'm totally clueless tbh. That's why I appreciate the support here

Here's a pic of my cheapy controller.


Thanks again all.
Im keen to take on your advice .

Thank you
 

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Wow
Thanks so much everyone for the responses.
I know this sounds made up but the situation is I have taken over a family members round who has now moved away. I got his setup and did away with the old pump as you had to mess about with connections to get it going again.

I know nothing about calibrating pump so I'm going to have a search on here for that and read that thread too on increasing flow.

As for the jets I have the red Gardiner 50 degree fan jets I'm told.
It's just so frustrating doing first cleans with cobwebs and dirt slowly making its way down glass. That's why I cranked pump up ?

I need to get pump secured properly I can see that too guys so appreciate the suggestions.


Maybe I should do away with the pumps flow switch and get a spring controller. Just not sure what to look for . I'm totally clueless tbh. That's why I appreciate the support here

Here's a pic of my cheapy controller.


Thanks again all.
Im keen to take on your advice .

Thank you
I would say your 'controller' is just controlling the speed of the pump. A 'standard' water fed pole controller has electronics that monitor the current the pump is pulling so it can 'sense' when you shut off the flow and it then pauses the pump. It continues to check every couple of seconds if your flow is open again. The calibration is when you extend your pole to it's tallest and tell the controller to calibrate, it then varies the speed and sets it's current to detect a shut off flow on your system.
By the controller monitoring the motor current it doesn't need the Pressure Switch.
A 'Spring' controller is sold by many different companies who put their own logos on it, look for a V16 controller. Not only do they manage the pump, but they use less current so helps battery life they also put less strain on the whole system.
 
Ah right I see.
That sounds logical and sensible.
Thank you I'll invest in getting one.

I have a selection of nozzles so might try pencil nozzles and I also have 8mm hose I really think I need to use having read that thread.

Earlier today I did a first clean ( inside and out of a customers patio doors). Even though I thought I got all the dirt sheeted off after lots of scrubbing it wasn't till I did insides I could see a depressing amount of rubbish still there ?

Just not sure about the 50 degree fan jets. Don't suppose I'll know till I increase hose bore and compare with other jets.

Thanks again
 
Ah right I see.
That sounds logical and sensible.
Thank you I'll invest in getting one.

I have a selection of nozzles so might try pencil nozzles and I also have 8mm hose I really think I need to use having read that thread.

Earlier today I did a first clean ( inside and out of a customers patio doors). Even though I thought I got all the dirt sheeted off after lots of scrubbing it wasn't till I did insides I could see a depressing amount of rubbish still there ?

Just not sure about the 50 degree fan jets. Don't suppose I'll know till I increase hose bore and compare with other jets.

Thanks again
I used pencil jets for years and wouldn't go back to them I tried 50's for a while but have used 100-degree fan jets for a few years now and wouldn't go back to pencils, doing a first clean is about being very thorough if you aren't thorough enough you will get issues.

If you are using 6-mm hose there is no need to switch to 8-mm if you have been using 1/2 inch garden hose then your pump has to work harder to push a greater volume of water through
 
I found fan jets to be good at coverage but because the water is spread over a larger area they didn't seem to rinse as well as 2mm pencil jets but others love their fan jets.
The other thing is what brush do you have? Do you use any chemicals on a first clean?
 
I'm quite keen to try out different options just to see.

This is my brushhttps://gardinerpolesystems.co.uk/xtreme-sill-26cm-brush-stiff.html

I've not used chemicals no but I've had a couple of windows that have left stubborn streaks on them so that sounds like a good idea too ?

Thanks again for all the help
I appreciate there will be different schools of thought but I don't think I can know what's best for me unless I try a few different approaches.
 
If the pump is overheating then it may be getting too high voltage from your van battery. As you are driving you battery gets charged. I had a customer whose controllers kept on getting burnt then we found out the charge was 14 volts hence why his controllers was burning out. The new V16 Controller protects your pump from this.
 
I'm quite keen to try out different options just to see.

This is my brushhttps://gardinerpolesystems.co.uk/xtreme-sill-26cm-brush-stiff.html

I've not used chemicals no but I've had a couple of windows that have left stubborn streaks on them so that sounds like a good idea too ?

Thanks again for all the help
I appreciate there will be different schools of thought but I don't think I can know what's best for me unless I try a few different approaches.
Most people who use hot water use stiff brushes. In my opinion stiff brushes are too stiff if you are using cold, I don't think they splay enough.

For chemicals I use Ubik 2000 some use viro-sol or even screwfix no nonsense degreaser - all mixed to the appropriate ratios. I use ubik at about 10 parts water to 1 part ubik. One thing to be careful of when using chemicals is don't let them dry if you can hep it plus rinse very well to make sure no chemicals are left as they can cause rainbow marks on glass.
 
Most people who use hot water use stiff brushes. In my opinion stiff brushes are too stiff if you are using cold, I don't think they splay enough.

For chemicals I use Ubik 2000 some use viro-sol or even screwfix no nonsense degreaser - all mixed to the appropriate ratios. I use ubik at about 10 parts water to 1 part ubik. One thing to be careful of when using chemicals is don't let them dry if you can hep it plus rinse very well to make sure no chemicals are left as they can cause rainbow marks on glass.
Thanks mate
Do you use a spray bottle then spray it on the brush to apply to glass or?

Thank you
 
Most people who use hot water use stiff brushes. In my opinion stiff brushes are too stiff if you are using cold, I don't think they splay enough.

For chemicals I use Ubik 2000 some use viro-sol or even screwfix no nonsense degreaser - all mixed to the appropriate ratios. I use ubik at about 10 parts water to 1 part ubik. One thing to be careful of when using chemicals is don't let them dry if you can hep it plus rinse very well to make sure no chemicals are left as they can cause rainbow marks on glass.
I think you’ll find no one uses hot water on this forum as it’s never mentioned ??
 
If the pump is overheating then it may be getting too high voltage from your van battery. As you are driving you battery gets charged. I had a customer whose controllers kept on getting burnt then we found out the charge was 14 volts hence why his controllers was burning out. The new V16 Controller protects your pump from this.
Surely if it’s getting to much power then the fuse will blow they are only 7 amp fuses for the pumps ?.
 
Surely if it’s getting to much power then the fuse will blow they are only 7 amp fuses for the pumps ?.
Fuses only blow due to current not power.

It's to do with the voltage drop across the internal resistance of the fuse. The voltage part of a fuse rating is to do with the gap created when the fuse blows and the voltage not being able to 'jump' across the gap. It's safe to use a fuse whose Amp rating is the same but it has a higher voltage rating but not to have a lower voltage rating.

In the case of an over heating connector it is a high resistance joint and that causes heat and that can spiral while still not drawing much more current.
 

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