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Some advice on WFP trolley systems

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Cheers for that, yeah might make more sense having the actual water in the boot just incase of spillage, I tried the DI Unit and I filled 4 containers up in minutes was easy... some weight on them. I'll try jig around a few difference ways and I'll try the trolley in the footwell too. Because I do commercial work and will tradding the bottoms i'm really curious to know how much 25L gets me.

Is there a duration for pure water as regards TDS levels?

 
Cheers for that, yeah might make more sense having the actual water in the boot just incase of spillage, I tried the DI Unit and I filled 4 containers up in minutes was easy... some weight on them. I'll try jig around a few difference ways and I'll try the trolley in the footwell too. Because I do commercial work and will tradding the bottoms i'm really curious to know how much 25L gets me.
Is there a duration for pure water as regards TDS levels?
Check every couple of days, if it goes up to 2 then order more resin. On the wcw website there's a resin calculator which will give you a rough estimate, I change mine every 2-4 months

 
Ok will do, I was going to order a bag of resin just to have spare as will be using it at some stage. There is a job I have to do with an embossed sign, would the wfp system be good for that or would the water catch on the embossed letters?

 
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Ok will do, I was going to order a bag of resin just to have spare as will be using it at some stage. There is a job I have to do with an embossed sign, would the wfp system be good for that or would the water catch on the embossed letters?
I do a similar sign once a month, just rinse thoroughly and should be ok once it dries off

 
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hi all, i am new to window cleaning and WFP systems and have found this thread really informative so thank you to everyone who has posted with advice and also thanks Daniel Perkins, a lot of your questions were questions i had also.

I too have decided to purchase a trolley from pure freedom, I was just wondering if anyone was aware of any discount codes that they have available? I rang up and the best they could offer was £15 off the price.

Thanks

 
Using my system for the first time today on my own house. Just a few things brush has 2 fan jets and its a first clean but the spray seems very powerful even at about 10 is that ok?

Also, how long is the norm for the pure water to dry? It just seems to be sitting on the glass at the moment for the last 5 minutes or so. TDS is 0 & i have given it a good scrub again but still the same.

 
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Using my system for the first time today on my own house. Just a few things, the spray seems very powerful even at about 10 is that ok? Also, how long is the norm for the pure water to dry? It just seems to be sitting on the glass at the moment for the last 5 minutes or so.
Goes it go to 10 or 100? Must people like to use either 7 or 70 depending on which it is. I go for about 75ish (no numbers just a dial) as for how long to dry, it depends on weather, between 5 or 30 mins, but if rinsed properly won't make any difference

 
Goes to 100.It's seems really strong even at 10. 75 is flying out and spraying hard against the glass. Obviously my technique is pretty bad but I'm trying to start from top, scrub frames and then rinse with a kind of cascade of water. I dont mind the bottoms so much as pole is huge and i havent really concentratwd much on them but rest of window just looks like it rained against the windows lol

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Update: It's drying a bit better now. Few spots and maybe water clinging to top frame but lot better than 25 mins ago.

Sent using the Window Cleaning Forums mobile app

 
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Well 2 hours later, windows, frames, sofets and gutters done lol

Windows actually turned out ok, just needed time to dry, seems to take longer than 30 mins to dry completely and some still have few small water spots. Was quite awkward doing sofets and gutters though, cars in the way and I keep on holding pole shoulder height which is bloody tough, I need to stop that. Also tripping over the hose a bit in tight spaces. I think I may need a hose reel of some sorts, hose is a mess laying around. I may look into that Flite connector, be handy to put pole in car without any hose attached.

Anyways first time and did ok ish... happy enough I suppose. Need a shed load of practice. Going out on Sunday morning to do some commercial, be lot more space and bigger panes so might bring it along a test her out /emoticons/biggrin.png

Missus said like a child with a new toy

 
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Ordered hose reel from sureclean who are based in northern ireland and delivery is quick. Also another lighter brush head and pack of those push fit connectors which do make more perfect sense, thanks for that. Flite seems like effort to install. I need to stop spending money and start trying to practice and start making the few quid back of it.

 
I had a tap outside then got a tap connected in the garage. I had 2x DI vessels as I lived in a very soft water area at the time. My TDS was about 050PPM. I moved to van mount after about 6 months. I live in a hard water area now so I've gone down the RO route with a 1000L holding tank. My pure water produces and the system shuts off when it's full due to having a cut off switch on a float. I then transfer it to my tank in my van every night.
Hi Daniel

I'm in Dublin too

I collect rainwater in 1000 litre IBC (Industrial bulk tank) I have a 3 bar Clarke pump that fills a 25 litre barrel of water through a Di vessel in 3 minutes.The rainwater pre Di vessel is from 4 to 11 Tdi.My mains tap water in Kilbarrack reads anything between 80 to 280 Tdi .I have a Diy trolley with pump box that contains 12 volt 22amp battery & Shurflo 12 volt Diaphragm pump.This battery is about four years old now & I got a spare 12 Ah battery from Battery World for around €30.You could always save money & don't splash out on Shurflo pump but use a cheaper chinese pump available on E bay.This way of working is cheap as chips for me as I got nearly two years out of my Di vessel.By using rainwater the Di has very little work to do.Next time it's raining which won't be long ha just agitate the dirt on your Windscreen & let the rain rinse it off & you'll see how pure it is.Watch some of Wagga's aka Christopher Dawber videos on YouTube for a complete Education on all that's required.

 
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Hi Daniel
I'm in Dublin too

I collect rainwater in 1000 litre IBC (Industrial bulk tank) I have a 3 bar Clarke pump that fills a 25 litre barrel of water through a Di vessel in 3 minutes.The rainwater pre Di vessel is from 4 to 11 Tdi.My mains tap water in Kilbarrack reads anything between 80 to 280 Tdi .I have a Diy trolley with pump box that contains 12 volt 22amp battery & Shurflo 12 volt Diaphragm pump.This battery is about four years old now & I got a spare 12 Ah battery from Battery World for around €30.You could always save money & don't splash out on Shurflo pump but use a cheaper chinese pump available on E bay.This way of working is cheap as chips for me as I got nearly two years out of my Di vessel.By using rainwater the Di has very little work to do.Next time it's raining which won't be long ha just agitate the dirt on your Windscreen & let the rain rinse it off & you'll see how pure it is.Watch some of Wagga's aka Christopher Dawber videos on YouTube for a complete Education on all that's required.
Hi mate,

Cheers for the advice appreciate all it. Yeah seen some of Waggas videos alright and some of them are very informative. I need all the help I can get /emoticons/biggrin.png

I cleaned the folks house today, it's a big and very awkward house to do. For me personally the brush head I have is too heavy so I will get a lighter one, although I won't be doing many houses as my work is commercial. As regards the univalve, can be hit and miss when my hands or hose is wet... slips out of hands when you pull. Not sure if anyone else finds that?

I know it's just my second job to do but water stays on the windows for about an hour or so, don't know if it's my technique and something I'm doing wrong but when they eventually dry there is few too many dry water spots. Also found I couldn't do over their conservatory as was too awkward with weight on brush. I'm curious when people are rinsing, can the brush be against the glass or does it have to be lifted off the glass?

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Hi mate,
Cheers for the advice appreciate all it. Yeah seen some of Waggas videos alright and some of them are very informative. I need all the help I can get /emoticons/biggrin.png

I cleaned the folks house today, it's a big and very awkward house to do. For me personally the brush head I have is too heavy so I will get a lighter one, although I won't be doing many houses as my work is commercial. As regards the univalve, can be hit and miss when my hands or hose is wet... slips out of hands when you pull. Not sure if anyone else finds that?

I know it's just my second job to do but water stays on the windows for about an hour or so, don't know if it's my technique and something I'm doing wrong but when they eventually dry there is few too many dry water spots. Also found I couldn't do over their conservatory as was too awkward with weight on brush. I'm curious when people are rinsing, can the brush be against the glass or does it have to be lifted off the glass?

3ff11255065f120b01dfec305d80483c.jpg
641218de2ae6b3900c01ed4a7fc1c531.jpg
Hi mate,
Cheers for the advice appreciate all it. Yeah seen some of Waggas videos alright and some of them are very informative. I need all the help I can get /emoticons/biggrin.png

I cleaned the folks house today, it's a big and very awkward house to do. For me personally the brush head I have is too heavy so I will get a lighter one, although I won't be doing many houses as my work is commercial. As regards the univalve, can be hit and miss when my hands or hose is wet... slips out of hands when you pull. Not sure if anyone else finds that?

I know it's just my second job to do but water stays on the windows for about an hour or so, don't know if it's my technique and something I'm doing wrong but when they eventually dry there is few too many dry water spots. Also found I couldn't do over their conservatory as was too awkward with weight on brush. I'm curious when people are rinsing, can the brush be against the glass or does it have to be lifted off the glass?

3ff11255065f120b01dfec305d80483c.jpg
641218de2ae6b3900c01ed4a7fc1c531.jpg
Few things to try with the spotting

1. Check TDs AFTER DI. Check it is 0. If not check in and out right way round, otherwise dodgy resin (highly unlikely)

2, scrub more to ensure you get the crud off

3, lift brush off glass to rinse, and rinse thoroughly, ensuring a nice sheet of water, too low a flow will cause issues whats yours on? Try at least 50.

As for other issues.

Univalve: some people prefer to stand on hose and pull pole up instead of tugging hose

 
Few things to try with the spotting1. Check TDs AFTER DI. Check it is 0. If not check in and out right way round, otherwise dodgy resin (highly unlikely)

2, scrub more to ensure you get the crud off

3, lift brush off glass to rinse, and rinse thoroughly, ensuring a nice sheet of water, too low a flow will cause issues whats yours on? Try at least 50.

As for other issues.

Univalve: some people prefer to stand on hose and pull pole up instead of tugging hose
Checked the tds and they were 0 and in and out was fine. I think maybe I wasn't scrubbing enough, I do find the brush heavy. Have a gardiner xtreme brush which is super light but just waiting on adaptor in the post. I keep standing on the hose anyways by accident so maybe that's the best option for me lol.
Yeah I wasn't sure on the speed, I read somewhere that too much pressure causes the water to splash above the rinse. I don't know how the hell you guys clean over big extensions etc the weight and angle of the pole was too much but I could have taken pieces out of the pole as it's 40ft and way to big for that house. Going out tomorrow to do my first commercial, it's about 3 stories but lots of space and panes are straight up and no complications.... also doing some awkward signs which will be interesting.

As regards high work, is it difficult to rinse the glass whilst lifting brush off the glass? Sounds fairly strenuous.

 
Few things to try with the spotting1. Check TDs AFTER DI. Check it is 0. If not check in and out right way round, otherwise dodgy resin (highly unlikely)

2, scrub more to ensure you get the crud off

3, lift brush off glass to rinse, and rinse thoroughly, ensuring a nice sheet of water, too low a flow will cause issues whats yours on? Try at least 50.

As for other issues.

Univalve: some people prefer to stand on hose and pull pole up instead of tugging hose
Ok cool, I did check the tds and it was 0 and in and out was fine. I think maybe I wasn't scrubbing enough, I do find the brush heavy/clunky and very awkward to scrub top window frames. Have a gardiner xtreme brush which is super light but just waiting on adaptor in the post. I keep standing on the hose anyways by accident so maybe that's the best option for me lol.
Yeah I wasn't sure on the speed, I read somewhere that too much pressure causes the water to splash above the rinse. I don't know how the hell you guys clean over big extensions etc the weight and angle of the pole was too much but I could have taken pieces out of the pole as it's 40ft and way to big for that house. Going out tomorrow to do my first commercial, it's about 3 stories but lots of space and panes are straight up and no complications.... also doing some awkward signs which will be interesting.

As regards high work, is it difficult to rinse the glass whilst lifting brush off the glass? Sounds fairly strenuous. I went through 75L today and that was going slow doing the folks house but I also did all the guttering and sofets which were bloody awkward.

 
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Just wondering why your hose is wet. I have found this can happen but only if I've put my pole down on wet grass which is not often. If this happens I just wipe the hose dry and carry on. It shouldn't be wet all the time. If it is I'd try to work out why and remedy it. In my case I found that certain brushes can flick a lot of water back on the pole that then runs down the pole so I avoid those brushes. Even the angle of the brush can make a difference.

As for drying times, it varies greatly depending on time of year and other factors. In the heat of summer and on windy days they can be dry within half hour or even quicker but on cold damp days in winter they can be wet for several hours even all day in my experience. However, it's how they eventually dry that's important. Once they get used to it, I have not found this to be an issue for the majority of customers.

Spotting is usually down to rinsing method. First cleans are always more challenging as you have to rinse for longer to get rid of soap deposits and dirt buildup on the frames. Once gone, subsequent cleans are much easier and use far less water. As a general guide I've found that regular cleans take about one third of the water needed for the first clean.

As for rinsing on or off the glass that's something you will have to experiment with. I find that what works for some jobs doesn't work for another but you quickly discover what works for each job and adjust accordingly. At least that's my experience anyway

 
Just wondering why your hose is wet. I have found this can happen but only if I've put my pole down on wet grass which is not often. If this happens I just wipe the hose dry and carry on. It shouldn't be wet all the time. If it is I'd try to work out why and remedy it. In my case I found that certain brushes can flick a lot of water back on the pole that then runs down the pole so I avoid those brushes. Even the angle of the brush can make a difference.As for drying times, it varies greatly depending on time of year and other factors. In the heat of summer and on windy days they can be dry within half hour or even quicker but on cold damp days in winter they can be wet for several hours even all day in my experience. However, it's how they eventually dry that's important. Once they get used to it, I have not found this to be an issue for the majority of customers.

Spotting is usually down to rinsing method. First cleans are always more challenging as you have to rinse for longer to get rid of soap deposits and dirt buildup on the frames. Once gone, subsequent cleans are much easier and use far less water. As a general guide I've found that regular cleans take about one third of the water needed for the first clean.

As for rinsing on or off the glass that's something you will have to experiment with. I find that what works for some jobs doesn't work for another but you quickly discover what works for each job and adjust accordingly. At least that's my experience anyway
Hi Marko,
I don't have a hose reel yet so it's lying on the ground and frankly at this moment I'm fairly messy & the current brush I have definitely flick water down the pole. I have a few offices in the pipeline and I just was curious about drying times and spotting as I would hate to do them & the office workers can see out their window glass either not drying well or spotting. I suppose it's a lack of confidence on my part at the moment and certainly a lack of experience. I'm also trying to work fro the hip but find myself working from the shoulders but isn't good.

I have done two houses including guttering and soffits as well as the glass. Gutters came out well, soffits difficult to do with the angle of the brush & the glass was hit and miss to be honest but both were first cleans and in poor condition to say the least. Maybe a baptism of fire for me. Cheers for the advice mate.

 
Ok cool, I did check the tds and it was 0 and in and out was fine. I think maybe I wasn't scrubbing enough, I do find the brush heavy/clunky and very awkward to scrub top window frames. Have a gardiner xtreme brush which is super light but just waiting on adaptor in the post. I keep standing on the hose anyways by accident so maybe that's the best option for me lol.
Yeah I wasn't sure on the speed, I read somewhere that too much pressure causes the water to splash above the rinse. I don't know how the hell you guys clean over big extensions etc the weight and angle of the pole was too much but I could have taken pieces out of the pole as it's 40ft and way to big for that house. Going out tomorrow to do my first commercial, it's about 3 stories but lots of space and panes are straight up and no complications.... also doing some awkward signs which will be interesting.

As regards high work, is it difficult to rinse the glass whilst lifting brush off the glass? Sounds fairly strenuous. I went through 75L today and that was going slow doing the folks house but I also did all the guttering and sofets which were bloody awkward.
You can strip section off if you want and get end caps, it's not difficult to do

 
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