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Some advice on WFP trolley systems

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Hi Marko,
I don't have a hose reel yet so it's lying on the ground and frankly at this moment I'm fairly messy & the current brush I have definitely flick water down the pole. I have a few offices in the pipeline and I just was curious about drying times and spotting as I would hate to do them & the office workers can see out their window glass either not drying well or spotting. I suppose it's a lack of confidence on my part at the moment and certainly a lack of experience. I'm also trying to work fro the hip but find myself working from the shoulders but isn't good.

I have done two houses including guttering and soffits as well as the glass. Gutters came out well, soffits difficult to do with the angle of the brush & the glass was hit and miss to be honest but both were first cleans and in poor condition to say the least. Maybe a baptism of fire for me. Cheers for the advice mate.
I don't use a reel. Just 15 or 25mtrs of Gardiner's green hose depending on the job. Once you work out how to manage it, it's easy to use. Here's my setup with 25mtrs of green PU hose.

hose_trolley_pole.jpg


 
I noticed rereading one of your earlier posts that your brush has fan jets. I personally love using Gardiner's red ones with a high flow rate (about 70-80%) but my advice would be when you get yourself a lighter brush (say one of the Ultimate or Supalite range from Gardiner) to go with 2mm pencil jets whilst you're developing your rinsing skills and try the fans again later.

 
Looking at your set up I think I am wondering is my flow so strong because I'm using a standard yellow extension hose that is thicker than the 5mm facelift pipe hose, I have them connected together. I see your green hose is all the one. I have pics if the setup on the previous pages but I will take pictures tomorrow as I'm probably not explaining myself very well. The thicker extension hose is making it difficult to wrap around the hook too.

I only got fan jets as I will primarily working on large panes of commercial glass. But I will order pencil jets also.

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Fan jets tend to vary widely depending on the manufacturer. I've found that some virtually vaporise the water which I didn't really like as a considerable amount of water would disappear down the street in a cloud instead of rinsing down the glass.

As regards hose I use one of these screwed into a male hozeloc fitting to connect to my trolley.

Nylon Male Screw Thread to Hose Barb Fittings - Hose Fittings Screw to Barb - Fittings, Barbs, Adapters, Etc - Hose Fittings & Adapters - Pump & Hose - All Products Gardiner Pole Systems

I attach a short piece of PU hose and a JG fitting to it as you can see in this picture to aid in clearing airlocks should you get one

hose%20break%201.jpg


and connect to the pole as in this picture

tubeless_01.jpg


And that's it.

Oh and I use these

John Guest 8mm Stem to 6mm Barb - Metric Fittings - John Guest Fittings - Hose Fittings & Adapters - Pump & Hose - All Products Gardiner Pole Systems

on the ends of the hose at the base of your pole if you are using a univalve. They will prevent you pulling the hose out of the JG fitting. I don't recommend the red ones here as seen in my picture as they break more easily than the black ones. You can also see I've filed the shoulder of the red fitting down to the same diameter as the hose. This is not absolutely necessary, I just find it helps when disconnecting

 
Great stuff mate thanks for being so detailed in your description. I never thought of airlocks, do you have any advice if I do get one?

There does seem to be a fair bit of vapour as you say spraying out. But that's the facelift brush, I am waiting on connection so I can use the Gardiner. I will definitely get some pencil jets too out of curiosity.

Can I ask what size is the pu hose? And is there a particular size to use?

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Mark067 noticed there isn't a 'o' ring on the John guest barb can you use the univalve still as I'm thinking of going tubeless but just cutting hose a couple of inches below my pole and putting a john guest connector.

 
Great stuff mate thanks for being so detailed in your description. I never thought of airlocks, do you have any advice if I do get one?
There does seem to be a fair bit of vapour as you say spraying out. But that's the facelift brush, I am waiting on connection so I can use the Gardiner. I will definitely get some pencil jets too out of curiosity.

Can I ask what size is the pu hose? And is there a particular size to use?

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To clear an airlock quickly just disconnect your hose at the John guest fitting nearest the trolley - this leaves an unrestricted flow with next to no back pressure - and turn your controller to full. It should clear in seconds.

The hose I use is Gardiner's green. It's 8mm OD x 5.5mm and plugs straight into the 8mm JG fittings. How long you want it depends on your needs. You can carry up to 30 mtrs in your hands easily but to coil it up by hand you need to be able to lay it straight out otherwise it is really difficult. I don't use any more than 25mtrs which is plenty long enough for all my work. I often use a 15mtr length though which is nice and easy to manage

 
Mark067 noticed there isn't a 'o' ring on the John guest barb can you use the univalve still as I'm thinking of going tubeless but just cutting hose a couple of inches below my pole and putting a john guest connector.
I noticed quite by accident that when I'm using PU hose I don't need them, even when I was using water at 45 degrees. PU hose is incredibly tough stuff and seems to tighten its grip when you pull on it. I've currently got no 'o' rings on any of my hose including where it joins the Univalve either side of it. I'm not sure if it will work with metal barbs though. I suspect not. However, all my barbs are plastic so it works. If you do try going tubeless with JG fittings don't forget to use the black JG barbs on the hose ends at the base of your pole. And if you have a problem disconnecting just file down the shoulder on the barbs as they can get in the way

 
You also won't have waterstop capability with JG fittings at the base of the pole unless you fold the hose. This has not been an issue for me as I work with a short hose attached to my trolley. I understand it may be if you work from a van mounted system. But as I say you can fold the hose if need be till you've connected up.

 
I didn't think of that do you disconnect twice once for base pole and then at of trolley?

 
Right just back from first commercial work . Took as many pics as I could to show you guys the drying times. Started it at about 9.10am

fe5141bf5a1841b02a84a6c90b9ac09b.jpg


9.48am

553e2afeb04d452828f9fee4d29de44d.jpg


This is at 10.49am

1418b125a5919c1ca228ff5b246d36a9.jpg


Other unit one side in shade and one in hot sun. Both done around the same time but some contrast in drying. Pics taken about 10 mins after work. Shaded still similar after 45 mins and I had to leave .

f8bda0bb5d207dd881a318c969bbd20a.jpg


9bdb45d84b02b5a4860835c68bfbb7d9.jpg


Issues I had, obviously not knowing the drying times is giving me a wee it if a confidence issue. Manager in KFC was looking at windows and said why is there water on the glass!? Sign came out excellent and how long the drips keep coming down from embossed letters in not sure.

The end cap on the facelift is annoying me. I got a second ome sent out by wcw as first one was too loose. Whether it's me or just the design itself remains to be seen. But keep pushing it off when pulling univalve.

1b7eed9f7ca6cba70b8be7b692d91e04.jpg


One last thing I was trying to remove bottom section of facelift edge pole and it doesn't seem to come off. I thought it would just slide off the end and be easily removable but won't budge beyond a certain point. I've seen other guys in videos removing sections from the bottom easily.

This is the hose i'm using that came with the facelift pole. I got rid of the thicker 10m extension hose as it was over kill and was dragging all over the place and I just connected the 5mm pipe hose into the green hose that comes with the PF trolley. Much neater

FaceLift[emoji768] 5mm Pole Pipe

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To clear an airlock quickly just disconnect your hose at the John guest fitting nearest the trolley - this leaves an unrestricted flow with next to no back pressure - and turn your controller to full. It should clear in seconds.

This looks good Mark, we may have to mod ours, we get air locks in, we use the tube which is see through from the pump to connector, which came supplied, then yellow gardeners hose, but might try the green, we must take the tap off the pole and replace with a univalve. Given me food for thought.

 
To clear an airlock quickly just disconnect your hose at the John guest fitting nearest the trolley - this leaves an unrestricted flow with next to no back pressure - and turn your controller to full. It should clear in seconds.
This looks good Mark, we may have to mod ours, we get air locks in, we use the tube which is see through from the pump to connector, which came supplied, then yellow gardeners hose, but might try the green, we must take the tap off the pole and replace with a univalve. Given me food for thought.
I use about 10 barrels a day most days and run most of them dry and airlocks have never been an issue for me as they clear so fast this way

 
I didn't think of that do you disconnect twice once for base pole and then at of trolley?
When I pack up and move on I do. When I just go back to the car for water I just disconnect at the trolley and leave pole in customer's garden and hose on their grass, off pavement for safety. Car's never far away so not a problem.

 
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