Spreader plates for tank frame

[marc674]

I will be doing a refit on my van next month and part of this will include a tank frame. I know few of you have recently fitted frames and am seeking advice on what is best for a spreader plate. My thoughts are either 50mm x 6mm mild steel or stainless steel flat bar. Is either of these metals stronger ? Also what size bolts would be best and how far should they be apart ? This is the frame I will use.

Thanks

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[AGlassAct]

The question will be of what size you can actually get under the van once it’s in the ideal position for you. All the plans I made for my installs came unstuck as soon as I got underneath!!! Just remember if you use mild steel you’ll have to paint them - ideally. I’ve always used stainless (bolts too) and never had an issue with rusty bolts or rusty spreader plates. One in each corner (6” away) would be enough usually but 3 front and back if you can. Size wise - I wouldn’t consider anything smaller than M10.


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[marc674]

I think your right as far as stainless steel go,s I don't want things rusting up. The frame is going in a Transit connect T230 lwb. I plan to fit it as close to the bulkhead to maximise space in the back. It looks like the exhaust and fuel tank will have to come off so is probably a job for the garage. Don't fancy doing that on my drive

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[spruce]

I think your right as far as stainless steel go,s I don't want things rusting up. The frame is going in a Transit connect T230 lwb. I plan to fit it as close to the bulkhead to maximise space in the back. It looks like the exhaust and fuel tank will have to come off so is probably a job for the garage. Don't fancy doing that on my drive

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We fitted a 500 liter tank in a T220L. We fitted it length ways.

The front bolts and spreader plates were located in the gap behind the front floor support and another support a little way back. We fitted HT bolts with spreader plates. Access is through some access holes in the frame. The rear bolts went through the floor into the gap between the tank and the spare wheel. The gap is just above the rear axle and slightly to the front if memory services me. This was done nearly 7 years ago.

I welded a couple of 'outriggers' to the side frame and secured with bolts and nutserts. The nutserts weren't meant as structural support but sufficed to keep the tank sides from moving about. There is a small gap between the bottom of the floor and the top of the tank. The bolts need to be just long enough to not touch and damage the tank when they are bolted up.

Bolts had their threads facing into the van so rusty threads weren't an issue.

I would recommend that you fiberglass the floor and make a tub. This will contain any water spills from leaking into the rear covered footwells (used on the people carrier but covered on the van) and the carpets getting wet and smelling.

I'm also going to suggest you get any welding work done to the sills that needs doing. Then get them rust treated inside (They might have to drill holes in the sill to do this.) This will preserve your investment.

 

[spruce]

I've added a couple of photos to my previous post @marc674. We initially used the van battery to run the pump. We spliced into the rear auxillary socket for the supply. (The 'L' had the supply cable but not the socket. I believe the T230 has the socket as well). We later added a leisure battery and bolted the metal battery tray I had left over from my tailer to the empty area infront of the drivers side rear wheel arch. We used that supply to power a split charge relay. His van battery kept going flat after 4 to 5 days working and that was the reason for adding a leisure battery. This was despite a 30 mile round trip including the round and additional mileage as well. (He worked 3 days a week window cleaning and did other carpentry jobs.) Replacing the starter battery didn't help.

We later discovered that the Varistream uses current even when switched off. It discharged his fully charged leisure battery to 3/4 charge over a week when the van was idle. We fitted an isolator switch between the leisure battery and the Varistream which was switched off after the day's work. This preseved the charge in the battery. He had to put a charger onto his leisure battery every 3 to 4 weeks.

 

[marc674]

Thanks@spruce for your very detailed reply. I have had this van a year now ex council with very low miles. One of the first things I had done was having the sills rust treated as have seen how bad some of these rot. I note your point on fiberglassing the floor. I was thinking of sealing all the edges with fiberglass then coating the whole floor with protekatcote. What was the reason for having the tank length ways in your sons van ? I'm only having a 350 litre tank in mine and really hope this can go along the bulkhead. I notice in your sons van the tank is on a raised ply floor at the bulkhead but the back looks like the metal floor ?
I probably won't bother with a split charge relay. All my work is very compact and within 5 miles of my home

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[paul alan]

We fitted a 500 liter tank in a T220L. We fitted it length ways.

The front bolts and spreader plates were located in the gap behind the front floor support and another support a little way back. We fitted HT bolts with spreader plates. Access is through some access holes in the frame. The rear bolts went through the floor into the gap between the tank and the spare wheel. The gap is just above the rear axle and slightly to the front if memory services me. This was done nearly 7 years ago.

I welded a couple of 'outriggers' to the side frame and secured with bolts and nutserts. The nutserts weren't meant as structural support but sufficed to keep the tank sides from moving about. There is a small gap between the bottom of the floor and the top of the tank. The bolts need to be just long enough to not touch and damage the tank when they are bolted up.

Bolts had their threads facing into the van so rusty threads weren't an issue.

I would recommend that you fiberglass the floor and make a tub. This will contain any water spills from leaking into the rear covered footwells (used on the people carrier but covered on the van) and the carpets getting wet and smelling.

I'm also going to suggest you get any welding work done to the sills that needs doing. Then get them rust treated inside (They might have to drill holes in the sill to do this.) This will preserve your investment.

View attachment 14586

View attachment 14587

View attachment 14588

You can tell a lot about a man from the back of his van!

I believe its an outward expression of the persons mind, nice clean and organised.

 

[spruce]

You can tell a lot about a man from the back of his van!

I believe its an outward expression of the persons mind, nice clean and organised.

It usually starts off that way but doesn't last very long I'm afraid. ?

 

[spruce]

Thanks@spruce for your very detailed reply. I have had this van a year now ex council with very low miles. One of the first things I had done was having the sills rust treated as have seen how bad some of these rot. I note your point on fiberglassing the floor. I was thinking of sealing all the edges with fiberglass then coating the whole floor with protekatcote. What was the reason for having the tank length ways in your sons van ? I'm only having a 350 litre tank in mine and really hope this can go along the bulkhead. I notice in your sons van the tank is on a raised ply floor at the bulkhead but the back looks like the metal floor ?
I probably won't bother with a split charge relay. All my work is very compact and within 5 miles of my home

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I wondered if that would be confusing when I added the photo. The tank is on the floor which has been Protectakoted and all gaps in the floor sealed. The ply was a shelf that son in law wanted primarily to hold his step ladder securely and his container for clothes and bits and bobs sat there nicely as well.

As I mentioned he also did a bit of carpentry joinery work. So he wanted a bit of length to store wood in down the one side. Had he had the tank across the front bulkhead then it would how reduced to usability of his van for his requirements.

It could well be that if you wanted a 500 liter tank across the width of the bulkhead you would have to drop the fuel tank to fit spreader plates. I don't know as I never explored that option. The other thing is to ensure that if you did fit the tank the way you want it, you will not be overloading your front axle when the tank is full of water, the diesel tank is full and your are in the driver's seat with maybe a passenger.

My first thought of putting a photo up was to show you that with the tank lengthways you still have plenty of space for a hose reel.