TDS reading of water with detergent in it

Discussion in 'Traditional Window Cleaning' started by fenderjaguar, Jul 28, 2015.

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  1. fenderjaguar

    fenderjaguar Well-Known Member
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    #1 fenderjaguar, Jul 28, 2015
    Last edited: Jul 28, 2015
    OK, so I saw the video polzn bladz made about gethering rainwater. I noted the exact same TDS reader he was using. It was the HM digital TDS EZ. So I bought one myself.

    I'd been wanting to test the TDS of my water for a while. And I'm happy to say my Rochdale tap water is around about less than 50 PPM. This stuff all comes from upland reservoirs and I think it's safe to say it's pretty soft.

    Then I wanted to test what TDS it would be with detergent in. First I tested glass gleam 3 at 1:1000 dilution ratio, and it actually pushes it from 50 PPM up to around 60. Glass gleam 4 at 1:500, even though it has water softeners in, actually pushes the water up to around 70 PPM.

    Then I tested magnum washing up liquid. Now I can't be objective with how much I put in the water. I put "A squirt" in. And I wasn't really surprised to see it pushes it up to around 250 PPM.

    It's no wonder lines and direction marks are not an issue for me now that I'm not using washing up liquid anymore.
     
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  2. Jake

    Jake Grand Master
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    What are you using now?
     
  3. fenderjaguar

    fenderjaguar Well-Known Member
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    #3 fenderjaguar, Jul 28, 2015
    Last edited: Jul 28, 2015
    What, in terms of detergent? GG3.

    Also, just tested my rain water. 12 PPM. But with 1:1000 GG3, it's 27PPM
     
  4. daveyboy

    daveyboy Legend
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    Pure lol
     
  5. Jacob

    Jacob Guest

    But how much the tds read when tradding really dosent matter. You blade the water off the glass, as for getting lines when cleaning is a matter of skill and tecnique. I use tap water at atleast 350 ppm and regular soap and i never have line or the like.

    But if your method works better for you then keep doing that :thumbsup:
     
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  6. fenderjaguar

    fenderjaguar Well-Known Member
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    I think you'll find in several days that the windows have visible lines and direction marks on them at that kind of PPM, even with the best squeegee skills in the world and a brand new squeegee blade. Especially when you use heavy detergent, which whilst may appear to 'dry up' quickly (or even instantaneously) when viewed from the outside, actually pushes the PPM up and makes things worse, especially when viewed from inside.

    With very low PPM water, you'll find the windows are visibly clean, even when viewed from inside in direct sunlight, even when the window has been carelessly bladed off with a rough old rubber leaving lines that have to dry up in about 30 seconds.
     
  7. Jacob

    Jacob Guest

    I dont agree. If you view a window from the inside bladed with skill and good technique you will not see lines when use tap water and soap. If your window looks dirty when viewed from inside when cleaned outside your not doing a good enough job.
     
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  8. fenderjaguar

    fenderjaguar Well-Known Member
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    I can agree with that statement.

    My issue is that it takes:

    1. A good squeegee blade, probably changed very often.

    2. Very good technique that requires constant attention to detail.

    Whereas, very clean water method requires niether of those things and is therefore much easier.
     
  9. Jacob

    Jacob Guest

    I see your point, but i do change rubber every day so i an sure the rubbers fresh and good to go, i also belive this job is very much about attention to detail, thats what set one windowcleaner apart from the other imo.

    what do you do when your mops dipped in the water first time? After first dip the water tds in the bucket has now raised alot from the dirt transfered from the mop to the water and you are pretty much back to the high tds if iam not wrong
     
  10. fenderjaguar

    fenderjaguar Well-Known Member
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    Very good point. And that was going to be my next test; how many PPM is the water when you've dipped an applicator into it 20 times from cleaning 6 houses?

    The question is though, do you want to start out with 30 PPM water that goes to 300 PPM? Or do you want to start out with 300 PPM water that goes to 1000 PPM? Which is a rhetorical question, obviously.

    I think what we're arguing about here is "can you clean windows with dirty water"? And the answer is absolutely YES, but it's far more preferable to use clean water. Dunno how anyone can dispute that...
     
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