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Unger hydropower tds problem

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Hi, I have a new unger hydropower ultra, 

When I start cleaning windows tds is 0, after 10 mins tds meter starts reading anything from 20 to 490, 

Windows are not spotting

Anyone any ideas

 
Hi, I have a new unger hydropower ultra, 

When I start cleaning windows tds is 0, after 10 mins tds meter starts reading anything from 20 to 490, 

Windows are not spotting

Anyone any ideas
Good evening. The obvious question is?? Do you live in an extremely hard water area??

Are you new to the trade and have jumped straight into wfp without testing your home water tds or researched pure water production and it's core science

Also if are you hammering the water flow through it as too much flow will not work well

 
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Hi, I have a new unger hydropower ultra, 

When I start cleaning windows tds is 0, after 10 mins tds meter starts reading anything from 20 to 490, 

Windows are not spotting

Anyone any ideas
Is this every day? If it is then either the water is bypassing the resin or your TDS meter is wrong.

As the windows aren't spotting at 500ppm then I'd think it's your meter.

 
Hi, I have a new unger hydropower ultra, 

When I start cleaning windows tds is 0, after 10 mins tds meter starts reading anything from 20 to 490, 

Windows are not spotting

Anyone any ideas
I'm not all that knowledgeable on this aspect of the game. But I'm just wondering if you might have accidentally hit the a instead of the s when you submitted your user name? I think my clan ancestors were chased out of Westmeath hundreds of years ago.

Oh! And welcome to the forum. ?

 
Are you using genuine 6ltr hydropower resin bags as loose filling the di will not work and also the first generation Hydropower with black mesh stocking bags can be refilled by cutting the cable tie and filling with 6.1kg or premium resin

Your initial post is somewhat vague in explanation terms of your setup and usage

Older second hand hydropower that have been knocked about sometimes very rarely can move the HM digital probes in the first gen units

 
Are you using genuine 6ltr hydropower resin bags as loose filling the di will not work and also the first generation Hydropower with black mesh stocking bags can be refilled by cutting the cable tie and filling with 6.1kg or premium resin

Your initial post is somewhat vague in explanation terms of your setup and usage

Older second hand hydropower that have been knocked about sometimes very rarely can move the HM digital probes in the first gen units
This is a new unit, supplier showed me how to unclip the bottom of the bag to refill it with resin from a 25ltr bag. 

I don't have room in the van for a tank so I connect to water supply where I'm working, 

I travel to different parts so the  tap water may have different tds each time

 
This is a new unit, supplier showed me how to unclip the bottom of the bag to refill it with resin from a 25ltr bag. 

I don't have room in the van for a tank so I connect to water supply where I'm working, 

I travel to different parts so the  tap water may have different tds each time
Do you have a separate handheld TDS tester ideally an HM digital TDS 3

Also with the upmost respect do you understand that you can't use a di vessel / hydropower with water exceeding 100ppm as you'll be hammering the life out of the resin without an RO system

 
Hi, I have a new unger hydropower ultra, 

When I start cleaning windows tds is 0, after 10 mins tds meter starts reading anything from 20 to 490, 

Windows are not spotting

Anyone any ideas
I really don't know why these are sold by suppliers they are pointless, the resin will be spent in no time at all, they are a overpriced piece of kit.

With respect it's simply not professional IMHO to turn up to custys properties and use their water supply, to clean their windows on a regular basis.  

 
I really don't know why these are sold by suppliers they are pointless, the resin will be spent in no time at all, they are a overpriced piece of kit.

With respect it's simply not professional IMHO to turn up to custys properties and use their water supply, to clean their windows on a regular basis.  
With respect I am a traditional window cleaner and only use the hydropower where access by ladder is impossible, 

Have it purely for odd occasions 

I'm not interested in having an expensive system that won't remove paint spots etc

The fact that I don't have a ven set up doesn't make me unprofessional, 

 
I really don't know why these are sold by suppliers they are pointless, the resin will be spent in no time at all, they are a overpriced piece of kit.

With respect it's simply not professional IMHO to turn up to custys properties and use their water supply, to clean their windows on a regular basis.  
They are overpriced and gimmicky.

I have two kicking around in the garage that were new but sold dirt cheap on marketplace

I just use two 11ltr vessels as the capacity is greater and lasts longer.

Like you say doing windows in the USA style of using the customers water isn't the best method

 
They are overpriced and gimmicky.

I have two kicking around in the garage that were new but sold dirt cheap on marketplace

I just use two 11ltr vessels as the capacity is greater and lasts longer.

Like you say doing windows in the USA style of using the customers water isn't the best method


They are overpriced and gimmicky.

I have two kicking around in the garage that were new but sold dirt cheap on marketplace

I just use two 11ltr vessels as the capacity is greater and lasts longer.

Like you say doing windows in the USA style of using the customers water isn't the best method
The last couple of replies I got were of no help, 

I'm not asking who's water I should be using, 

If you can't  give advise  on my question that's fine 

Not sure if you read my question 

I'm a Trad cleaner and only use  unit for windows that can't be accessed by ladder, 

You guys are on a different topic altogether 

 
I think check with another tds meter, either borrow from someone or buy one from a reputable supplier. This way you can see if the tds meter you have is faulty, or if the tds genuinely fluctuates. 

After that, if the water goes through a small vessel too fast and the original tds is very high, the resin won't have time to work so it will account for a very high reading. Slow the water down and check to see if the reading goes down. (Although if the resin is already spent you'll need to change it over before doing that) check this on a water source you know the input tds of. 

If neither of these things work, it'll be a problem with the vessel I would think, either its faulty or somethings wrong after the resin change. 

Hope it helps...

 
I think check with another tds meter, either borrow from someone or buy one from a reputable supplier. This way you can see if the tds meter you have is faulty, or if the tds genuinely fluctuates. 

After that, if the water goes through a small vessel too fast and the original tds is very high, the resin won't have time to work so it will account for a very high reading. Slow the water down and check to see if the reading goes down. (Although if the resin is already spent you'll need to change it over before doing that) check this on a water source you know the input tds of. 

If neither of these things work, it'll be a problem with the vessel I would think, either its faulty or somethings wrong after the resin change. 

Hope it helps...
Thanks for the reply, I will try that,  best reply I got, thanks

 
The last couple of replies I got were of no help, 

I'm not asking who's water I should be using, 

If you can't  give advise  on my question that's fine 

Not sure if you read my question 

I'm a Trad cleaner and only use  unit for windows that can't be accessed by ladder, 

You guys are on a different topic altogether 
With respect mate, we are trying to best advise you however your explanation is somewhat vague.

What area do you live in,

what's the average ppm count on the water you are using

do you have a handheld tds tester to confirm a water test at the tap

Do you clearly understand about pure water production as I have clearly mentioned before that you can't just use a di on any old water supply

 
most of us have spent money on things we shouldnt of......i know i have before i knew better....

to the OP it would be better to purify your own water into a few 25l barrels and take these to work with you and use a backpack on a trolley. for the awkward windows.....

plugging into customers outside taps is unprofessional as well as unreliable

 
This may be of help to you.

From my research and findings you live / operate in a hard water area with a high parts per million count.

Near Central ROI has very small pockets of soft water but the majority has very hard water

Using just a DI vessel on it's own without an RO system will cause excessive resin use.

From the information you've provided it's apparent you are only using a DI vessel and pushing water through a 6ltr Unger Hydropower will show a low PPM count for a brief period until the water destroys the resin giving you false readings from 000 - 263 ect.

You live where the red way point is highlighted on the map and the other map shows water hardness throughout The ROI

20210702_173303.jpg

20210702_173232.jpg

20210702_174358.jpg

 
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This may be of help to you.

From my research and findings you live / operate in a hard water area with a high parts per million count.

Near Central ROI has very small pockets of soft water but the majority has very hard water

Using just a DI vessel on it's own without an RO system will cause excessive resin use.

From the information you've provided it's apparent you are only using a DI vessel and pushing water through a 6ltr Unger Hydropower will show a low PPM count for a brief period until the water destroys the resin giving you false readings from 000 - 263 ect.

You live where the red way point is highlighted on the map and the other map shows water hardness throughout The ROI

View attachment 25026

View attachment 25027

View attachment 25028
Thanks for the info, 

So is there a better di system I should use or do I have to go with an Ró

system? 

 
Thanks for the info, 

So is there a better di system I should use or do I have to go with an Ró

system? 
You require an RO system with a di to polish off the water to zero ppm

Depending on your tap water pressure at where you choose to produce water that determines the best system for your needs.

You'll either have to have a static system at home or van mounted which is supplied with water overnight to create 000pm water for the next working day.

Not sure on Irish suppliers but the legendary @doug atkinson
or @spruce
can best advise you on system requirements

 
You require an RO system with a di to polish off the water to zero ppm

Depending on your tap water pressure at where you choose to produce water that determines the best system for your needs.

You'll either have to have a static system at home or van mounted which is supplied with water overnight to create 000pm water for the next working day.

Not sure on Irish suppliers but the legendary @doug atkinson
or @spruce
can best advise you on system requirements
MY tap water read 117 on hand held tds meter

 
MY tap water read 117 on hand held tds meter
Your next step would be to get a pressure reading from your tap, This will determine the RO setup needed you may require one with or without a booster pump.

A simple garden tap style pressure tester is available from all big box DIY stores or Amazon

https://www.toolstation.com/mains-water-pressure-test-gauge/p75711?store=FB&utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=googleshoppingfeed&mkwid=s_dm&pcrid=515847200312&pkw=&pmt=&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIlt7rsIvF8QIVlJftCh0ILwxCEAQYASABEgIDk_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

there is some good reading in the forum threads on RO systems which may help you

 
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