Update on biocide clean

[Pjj]

Ok so on the 18 April I sprayed this house with Benz biocide at 25-1 ratio this is what it looked like originally and then this morning. Customer wasn’t happy how long it was taking to come clean so I hypoed it and this is what it looks like now , as far as ime concerned bio is a non starter customers won’t accept the results and won’t wait 12 months for it to look better and neither would I . It looks a bit blotchy at the moment as it’s drying out but it’s nice and clean with a few stains that won’t come off ,but the customer is now happy and paid before I left .

 

[Pjj]

Hears a few more the pictures with clean and dirty on the same bit is after one coat of hypo sprayed on just that bit and let for a couple of muinits . I think on a really bad one like this it’s worth applying a biocide to start the process off , leave a few weeks then hypo it was a lot easier than just hypoing it .

 

[Mattymarske]

Ok so on the 18 April I sprayed this house with Benz biocide at 25-1 ratio this is what it looked like originally and then this morning. Customer wasn’t happy how long it was taking to come clean so I hypoed it and this is what it looks like now , as far as ime concerned bio is a non starter customers won’t accept the results and won’t wait 12 months for it to look better and neither would I . It looks a bit blotchy at the moment as it’s drying out but it’s nice and clean with a few stains that won’t come off ,but the customer is now happy and paid before I left .

How close to the sea is this property? I only say that as it seems like you guys down there and also quite a few Scottish estates when I used to work up there had rendering that went like that. Is it prevailing westerlies or general damp climate in winters? But seem always sunny hot summers for you guys. Not many rendered houses round here go that black so wondered if it was East/West prevailing wind/moisture causation.

It's come up a treat. Had they paid for the biocide treatment before or were dragging their feet?

 

[kevinc250]

its like the old saying paul, that you can't make a silk purse out of a sows ear, but you can with some skill make a cracking pork pie.
for me, bio has its uses and places so has hypo and its derivatives, and looking closer at the render you can see a blotch where something has been covered over and its possible to see the mortar lines where its been breeze blocked so all in all its a great finish from something which would never be perfect.
one question, time wise given that you used bio and then hypo later was it quicker time wise as in man hours?
and i guessed that you used a lot less hypo this way which, in my thinking would offset the cost of the bio?
just curious on the costings as i have done similar before and found the materials used were slightly less and time wise a fair bit easier/quicker.

 

[Deleted member 7446]

Ok so on the 18 April I sprayed this house with Benz biocide at 25-1 ratio this is what it looked like originally and then this morning. Customer wasn’t happy how long it was taking to come clean so I hypoed it and this is what it looks like now , as far as ime concerned bio is a non starter customers won’t accept the results and won’t wait 12 months for it to look better and neither would I . It looks a bit blotchy at the moment as it’s drying out but it’s nice and clean with a few stains that won’t come off ,but the customer is now happy and paid before I left .

Brilliant results mate. When in doubt hypo it

 

[Pjj]

How close to the sea is this property? I only say that as it seems like you guys down there and also quite a few Scottish estates when I used to work up there had rendering that went like that. Is it prevailing westerlies or general damp climate in winters? But seem always sunny hot summers for you guys. Not many rendered houses round here go that black so wondered if it was East/West prevailing wind/moisture causation.

It's come up a treat. Had they paid for the biocide treatment before or were dragging their feet?

It’s about 3 miles in land , wind blows in all directions it’s a very damp area , it’s k rend and the poors of the surface were full of mould

 

[Pjj]

its like the old saying paul, that you can't make a silk purse out of a sows ear, but you can with some skill make a cracking pork pie.
for me, bio has its uses and places so has hypo and its derivatives, and looking closer at the render you can see a blotch where something has been covered over and its possible to see the mortar lines where its been breeze blocked so all in all its a great finish from something which would never be perfect.
one question, time wise given that you used bio and then hypo later was it quicker time wise as in man hours?
and i guessed that you used a lot less hypo this way which, in my thinking would offset the cost of the bio?
just curious on the costings as i have done similar before and found the materials used were slightly less and time wise a fair bit easier/quicker.

Hi Kevin
You have raised some interesting points .
The bio did kill the black mould but it wasn’t coming off the building it still looked horrendous the customer wanted it to look clean much quicker to be fair it’s one of the worst we have done it looked worse in the flesh than the photos show .
It cost £140 in biocide .
Today I just gave it two heavy coats of hypo 4-1 no scrubbing at all and just rinsed with the hose .
If I was just hypoing it it would definitely have needed scrubbing and would have taken longer without a doubt , but at a cost of the bio , today I used just under 25 ltr of neat hypo but that’s only £24 if I had just used hypo and no bio I think I would have used 2-2.5 drums so using bio cost more but took less time and was far easier work . I would definitely do this way again on bad stuff but it does need a few weeks to die and soften it up to come of easier .

 

[Pjj]

How close to the sea is this property? I only say that as it seems like you guys down there and also quite a few Scottish estates when I used to work up there had rendering that went like that. Is it prevailing westerlies or general damp climate in winters? But seem always sunny hot summers for you guys. Not many rendered houses round here go that black so wondered if it was East/West prevailing wind/moisture causation.

It's come up a treat. Had they paid for the biocide treatment before or were dragging their feet?

No they hadn’t paid I couldn’t invoice them with it looking the way it did

 

[kevinc250]

Hi Kevin
You have raised some interesting points .
The bio did kill the black mould but it wasn’t coming off the building it still looked horrendous the customer wanted it to look clean much quicker to be fair it’s one of the worst we have done it looked worse in the flesh than the photos show .
It cost £140 in biocide .
Today I just gave it two heavy coats of hypo 4-1 no scrubbing at all and just rinsed with the hose .
If I was just hypoing it it would definitely have needed scrubbing and would have taken longer without a doubt , but at a cost of the bio , today I used just under 25 ltr of neat hypo but that’s only £24 if I had just used hypo and no bio I think I would have used 2-2.5 drums so using bio cost more but took less time and was far easier work . I would definitely do this way again on bad stuff but it does need a few weeks to die and soften it up to come of easier .

hi paul, its interesting about your costings from this job, i haven't seen the whole home but i'm absolutley sure that i could treat that with biocide for around £30 cost wise.
without going into all the rig marroll regarding bio i would if, i came across a job like this is to pre wet or to be honest soak the living daylights out of the render with the customers hose pipe then apply the bio, from the bottom upwards.
this means you are killing the bacteria on the surface but not allowing it to soak into the render you will see the bacteria/alghi whatever turning a darker shade of whatever it was, this means its dead,and the stains remain on the surface theres no need to apply anymore as its done its job. the pre soaking ensures that the stains from the bio will not go inwards into the render-when that happens its a proper pig of a job to get rid of, doing it this way uses far less bio and i would think (we don't have that many rendered homes up here) will give you far better results.
follow up with hypo will only be be brightening part and possibly remove the odd stain that may be left.
once you get used to it you'll find that less is more and, allow the chems to do their work rather than just putting more on.
the most expensive thing on your van is you!!!!! so, if you can make the materials work for you with the least input thats better as you can be off doing other things while the chems work

 

[Pjj]

hi paul, its interesting about your costings from this job, i haven't seen the whole home but i'm absolutley sure that i could treat that with biocide for around £30 cost wise.
without going into all the rig marroll regarding bio i would if, i came across a job like this is to pre wet or to be honest soak the living daylights out of the render with the customers hose pipe then apply the bio, from the bottom upwards.
this means you are killing the bacteria on the surface but not allowing it to soak into the render you will see the bacteria/alghi whatever turning a darker shade of whatever it was, this means its dead,and the stains remain on the surface theres no need to apply anymore as its done its job. the pre soaking ensures that the stains from the bio will not go inwards into the render-when that happens its a proper pig of a job to get rid of, doing it this way uses far less bio and i would think (we don't have that many rendered homes up here) will give you far better results.
follow up with hypo will only be be brightening part and possibly remove the odd stain that may be left.
once you get used to it you'll find that less is more and, allow the chems to do their work rather than just putting more on.
the most expensive thing on your van is you!!!!! so, if you can make the materials work for you with the least input thats better as you can be off doing other things while the chems work

Thanks Kevin I did exactly what you have said but used 6 ltr of bio diluted 25-1 I used it this strong due to the fact it was very bad do you think a weaker mix would have killed it ? I gave it a double coat first one heavy second one a bit lighter , it did a good job of killing it but self cleaning would have taken forever , always happy to listen to advice on a better way of doing a job . How long would you leave it before rinsing or applying hypo ?

 

[kevinc250]

Thanks Kevin I did exactly what you have said but used 6 ltr of bio diluted 25-1 I used it this strong due to the fact it was very bad do you think a weaker mix would have killed it ? I gave it a double coat first one heavy second one a bit lighter , it did a good job of killing it but self cleaning would have taken forever , always happy to listen to advice on a better way of doing a job . How long would you leave it before rinsing or applying hypo ?

you don't rinse bio paul, and applying hypo after to me, is a bit of a no no but again, if enough time has gone by for the bio to be dead then it should be ok but don't hold me to that one.
bio and hypo aren't happy friends when they come together hence, i would be using the lightning cleanse as thats more sodium hydroxide with a little bit of hypo in it and a safer option.
just one light application of bio so the walls turn a different shade should be enough to clean it providing the surface is wetted the stains should not migrate into the render and the self cleaning time is reduced. thats how i would do it but everyone is different and will have different views or ideas to me.

 

[Pjj]

you don't rinse bio paul, and applying hypo after to me, is a bit of a no no but again, if enough time has gone by for the bio to be dead then it should be ok but don't hold me to that one.
bio and hypo aren't happy friends when they come together hence, i would be using the lightning cleanse as thats more sodium hydroxide with a little bit of hypo in it and a safer option.
just one light application of bio so the walls turn a different shade should be enough to clean it providing the surface is wetted the stains should not migrate into the render and the self cleaning time is reduced. thats how i would do it but everyone is different and will have different views or ideas to me.

Thanks , when I said rinsing I meant to speed up the removal of the black mould I normally wouldn’t rinse but in this case wanted to make the place look better . The bio did a good job of killing the mould it’s just customers want to see it looking clean after 4 weeks it wasn’t looking that much better although it was dead for that to totally self clean would have taken a year I think if ever . It took two visits to the property but that wasn’t an issue in this case as only half a mile down the road from home , but if working farther afield two visits would be a pain , could you apply the bio leave for an hour then rinse and hypo and get the same results ? The over all time and effort doing it this way was quicker than just using hypo I must admit that .

 

[tench0771]

That job is way to black for bio in my experience if it was red or green then that would of been clean with in a few weeks tops we get loads of houses like that were I am 90% need hypoing as customer leaves it to late.

 

[kevinc250]

Thanks , when I said rinsing I meant to speed up the removal of the black mould I normally wouldn’t rinse but in this case wanted to make the place look better . The bio did a good job of killing the mould it’s just customers want to see it looking clean after 4 weeks it wasn’t looking that much better although it was dead for that to totally self clean would have taken a year I think if ever . It took two visits to the property but that wasn’t an issue in this case as only half a mile down the road from home , but if working farther afield two visits would be a pain , could you apply the bio leave for an hour then rinse and hypo and get the same results ? The over all time and effort doing it this way was quicker than just using hypo I must admit that .

its a dodgy area that, personally i wouldn't be putting hypo on so soon after bio theres just too much of a risk of it going badly wrong.
one thing i have done in the past is------- when you pop round to quote and get the job apply bio there and then, explain that it will look worse than it is now but it does show that it is working, the customers can watch as you apply the bio from a safe distance so they can see it working and when you go back to apply the hypo say, in a couple of weeks time everything should be ready to go-presuming of course that you apply the bare minimum of bio, you only need to cover the surface so the alghi turns a darker shade or the colour runs, its dead then and there is no need to apply anymore-its a waste of materials.
i only use benz lightning cleanze as i just don't like hypo so i'm not really the best person to ask about that. as lee has said the black alghi is the worse of them all to remove it does go we have a lot of it up here in the north and have always found the lightning cleanze sorts it very quickly. something like the property you did i wouldn't hesitate to bio it first though to make the final clean easier. hope this helps.

 

[Pjj]

its a dodgy area that, personally i wouldn't be putting hypo on so soon after bio theres just too much of a risk of it going badly wrong.
one thing i have done in the past is------- when you pop round to quote and get the job apply bio there and then, explain that it will look worse than it is now but it does show that it is working, the customers can watch as you apply the bio from a safe distance so they can see it working and when you go back to apply the hypo say, in a couple of weeks time everything should be ready to go-presuming of course that you apply the bare minimum of bio, you only need to cover the surface so the alghi turns a darker shade or the colour runs, its dead then and there is no need to apply anymore-its a waste of materials.
i only use benz lightning cleanze as i just don't like hypo so i'm not really the best person to ask about that. as lee has said the black alghi is the worse of them all to remove it does go we have a lot of it up here in the north and have always found the lightning cleanze sorts it very quickly. something like the property you did i wouldn't hesitate to bio it first though to make the final clean easier. hope this helps.

Thanks Kevin
I have a roof on a shop to do scrape and bio so one light coat of bio should be ok ?

 

[kevinc250]

Thanks Kevin
I have a roof on a shop to do scrape and bio so one light coat of bio should be ok ?

i don't do roofs paul, i've learnt that lesson and leave it to the others