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What Ionic Pole and Clamps?

Inked

Active member
Messages
120
Location
UK
Hi guys 

The clamps on one of my ionic carbon poles need replacing but I'm having problems finding them.

I'm not sure what model the pole is as I've had it for ages so it's making it even harder.

Any ideas

20210220_145824.jpg

 

Pjj

Premium Member
Messages
10,940
Location
Cornwall
Looks like an ionics ergo lite guessing it’s probably 15 years old I had ones like that years ago the clamp levers wear and the nuts need replacing , I doubt you can buy them any more , I did have a bag full of them somewhere will have a hunt round and see if I can find them 

 

Inked

Active member
Messages
120
Location
UK
Looks like an ionics ergo lite guessing it’s probably 15 years old I had ones like that years ago the clamp levers wear and the nuts need replacing , I doubt you can buy them any more , I did have a bag full of them somewhere will have a hunt round and see if I can find them 
That would be brilliant mate.

I'm struggling here....lol

 

spruce

The Sprucefather
Messages
7,933
Location
Teesside
All of those clampslook like they have no adjustment left. You might try to open the gap carefully with a 1mm cutting disc on an angle grinder but take the bolt out first for obvious reasons. I did that with some Gardiner clamps once long before Smart clamps became available.

 

Inked

Active member
Messages
120
Location
UK
All of those clampslook like they have no adjustment left. You might try to open the gap carefully with a 1mm cutting disc on an angle grinder but take the bolt out first for obvious reasons. I did that with some Gardiner clamps once long before Smart clamps became available.
Yes your right the ends of the clamps are completely together.

That's sounds like a really good idea.

You mean to use a Dremel to file the ends down to widen the gap?

 

ched999uk

Well-known member
Messages
2,966
Location
Lancashire
You mean to use a Dremel to file the ends down to widen the gap?
Dremel would be easier and safer than an angle grinder. All you need to do is widen the gap a little so the clamps can grip the pole. Not sure if the Ionics poles surface wears making it thinner. If they do you can either build up the surface with car spray lacquer (Halfords etc) or if it's bad 2 part epoxy then sand back to smooth and round. 

 

Inked

Active member
Messages
120
Location
UK
Dremel would be easier and safer than an angle grinder. All you need to do is widen the gap a little so the clamps can grip the pole. Not sure if the Ionics poles surface wears making it thinner. If they do you can either build up the surface with car spray lacquer (Halfords etc) or if it's bad 2 part epoxy then sand back to smooth and round. 
These are all brilliant ideas.

I do like to fix rather than keep replacing bits if I can.

I was even thinking that the half moon disc on my multitool could work really well because it's really easy to control and would give a neat smooth finish.

 

spruce

The Sprucefather
Messages
7,933
Location
Teesside
Yes your right the ends of the clamps are completely together.

That's sounds like a really good idea.

You mean to use a Dremel to file the ends down to widen the gap?
Yes, but very carefully. You also want to not cut into the pole its self. Removing the next inner section should make it easier. A Driemel tool would be better than an angle grinder. Just take your time. You don't need to take much off.

Now, the other suggestion is getting a can of clear engine lacquer, (not paint lacquer) preparing the pole section and then spraying the pole with a couple of thin coats.



 

spruce

The Sprucefather
Messages
7,933
Location
Teesside
Dremel would be easier and safer than an angle grinder. All you need to do is widen the gap a little so the clamps can grip the pole. Not sure if the Ionics poles surface wears making it thinner. If they do you can either build up the surface with car spray lacquer (Halfords etc) or if it's bad 2 part epoxy then sand back to smooth and round. 
It will be both the clamp and the pole that wears. Halfords only had paint lacquer when I needed some. It didn't work very well.

Araldite 2 part epoxy I found to work well.

 

Inked

Active member
Messages
120
Location
UK
It will be both the clamp and the pole that wears. Halfords only had paint lacquer when I needed some. It didn't work very well.

Araldite 2 part epoxy I found to work well.
That's a shame I could have used my Halfords trade card....lol

Carparts4less have it and eurocarparts but it's in a tin and not a spray.

I think I'll get away with just cutting the gap but the first section is quite loose.

I meant a half moon disc that goes on a multitool like the one in this picture.

I think it will be less aggressive and give a lot of control.

Oh. And I was going to completely dismantle the pole before doing anything so I can give it a good clean at the same time.

I'm also thinking about shortening it so I can use it more because I weights a ton...lol

31NVZIZIM8L._AC_.jpg

 
Last edited by a moderator:

Pjj

Premium Member
Messages
10,940
Location
Cornwall
I'm sure the nuts on mine sit on the surface and not in any shaped holes.
If you take out the lever and bolt I think you will find the recess in the clamp is designed for the shaped nut to sit in it and not turn, but the nuts round off on the edges and then spin when doing the clamp lever up so the pole section spins  

 

Iron Giant

Staff member
Moderator
Messages
8,990
Location
Durham
10 hours ago, spruce said:

Yes, but very carefully. You also want to not cut into the pole its self. Removing the next inner section should make it easier. A Driemel tool would be better than an angle grinder. Just take your time. You don't need to take much off.

Now, the other suggestion is getting a can of clear engine lacquer, (not paint lacquer) preparing the pole section and then spraying the pole with a couple of thin coats.

Engine lacquer I found to chip and look a mess it could have been my prep and drying times back then though, I use Plasti-Kote Clear Matt Acrylic but the dry/curing stage is very important I always do sections on a nice sunny day or failing that they have to go on a radiator in the house if I can't scratch it back off with my fingernail then I know it's baked then I'll apply the second coat and just leave the pole sections separated in the house or garage overnight depending on the time of year. 

A side note to anyone doing this and using the Acrylic spray is the nozzle will clog up and the can become useless if you don't clean it after use so make sure you have something to do so. 

 

spruce

The Sprucefather
Messages
7,933
Location
Teesside
Engine lacquer I found to chip and look a mess it could have been my prep and drying times back then though, I use Plasti-Kote Clear Matt Acrylic but the dry/curing stage is very important I always do sections on a nice sunny day or failing that they have to go on a radiator in the house if I can't scratch it back off with my fingernail then I know it's baked then I'll apply the second coat and just leave the pole sections separated in the house or garage overnight depending on the time of year. 

A side note to anyone doing this and using the Acrylic spray is the nozzle will clog up and the can become useless if you don't clean it after use so make sure you have something to do so. 
The Simoniz stuff works ok. The best was Gunk engine lacquer but I haven't seen it for years now.

Don't use wooden floor varnish. The wife suggested that. I had to buy a new section as two sections stuck together and I had to cut them apart.

 
Last edited by a moderator:

spruce

The Sprucefather
Messages
7,933
Location
Teesside
Good to know. I thought it was paint lacquer that worked. Thanks for the correction.
It's engine lacquer. Engine lacquer isn't a popular product in this country for some reason like it is in America and South Africa.

In SA the used car lots always used engine lacquer to give a potential customer the wow factor when opening the bonnet. 

 
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