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Moerman ( again!!!)



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monkeyman12

I like their rubber, use moerman soft, or black diamond soft, plus tried ettore master, soft, and find them all pretty similar. Just plenty of soap needed.
I use razor red on wooden frame houses, as it's much more durable.
I have no problem putting a line of soap on the applicator every dozen or so windows, it literally takes 5 seconds.

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Daniel Perkins

Completely with paul. I made the mistake of cutting rubber flush with plastic ends and rubber keeps slipping inside channel. Ettore rubber is by far the best imo without good slip none of them will last long.

 

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monkeyman12

Cut mine flush with plastic ends, and they work fine, but I push a small length of metal either end (pop rivit cut down to about 10mm) to secure rubber. No movement at all.

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Green Pro Clean Ltd
30 minutes ago, monkeyman12 said:

Cut mine flush with plastic ends, and they work fine, but I push a small length of metal either end (pop rivit cut down to about 10mm) to secure rubber. No movement at all.

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So you're saying it only works well after yet again more 'modifications?  

There's a surprise. 😁

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monkeyman12

Have found that most things regarding window cleaning work better when modified and tweaked a bit.
Moerman channels are relatively new, and their new end clips have been upgraded to try and stop rubber slip.
I'm not going to sweat over pushing a couple of pieces of metal or plastic down each end of the clips...... That takes about 20 seconds.


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CHWS

What sort of etoree rubbers are yous using? I’ve been getting lines with my latest razor rubber in it. It’s cut absolutely perfect so I think I’ll start blaming the actual liquidator now. It’s the best thing ever when it actually works 

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Daniel Perkins

Don't mind making few small mods to equipment but moerman and Unger etc should be keeping tabs on what us guys are saying on the ground day in day out so when you fork out for their over the top prices... you don't have to start modifying s**t.

 

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Green Pro Clean Ltd
5 hours ago, monkeyman12 said:

Have found that most things regarding window cleaning work better when modified and tweaked a bit.
Moerman channels are relatively new, and their new end clips have been upgraded to try and stop rubber slip.
I'm not going to sweat over pushing a couple of pieces of metal or plastic down each end of the clips...... That takes about 20 seconds.


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There's no new science there. The old school brass channels have rubber 'grips' you push in the end to stop rubber slip. They been about 60 years. 

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monkeyman12
There's no new science there. The old school brass channels have rubber 'grips' you push in the end to stop rubber slip. They been about 60 years. 
The end clips are the new part. To be honest I'm amazed it's taken this long for the squeegee channel to evolve to this point! Unger touted their ninja channel as the most advanced channel ever, a few years back, but that was a crock!
Things evolve slowly in the world of window cleaning it appears.


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Bobd

No matter how many times I've tried with different rubber it leaves lines. I've tried both the 10 and 12 inch using both the ettore and the razr red. Just tried the 12 again using the ettore and it's leaving lines just about an inch left of the middle. The rubber is perfectly fine. It's frustrating because it cost quite a bit. 

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scottish cleaning service
2 minutes ago, Bobd said:

No matter how many times I've tried with different rubber it leaves lines. I've tried both the 10 and 12 inch using both the ettore and the razr red. Just tried the 12 again using the ettore and it's leaving lines just about an inch left of the middle. The rubber is perfectly fine. It's frustrating because it cost quite a bit. 

 

Nothing wrong with the rubber. We found out the problem is the liquidator handle. After you change the handle to the Ettore contour pro plus you will never look back. You could also bend the handle up a bit and that works. I used my liquidator all day today with the contour pro plus handle and I flew through my windows, no detailing. :1f609:

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Bobd

I'm using the excellerator handle which looks similar to the ettore handle 

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Mr O

Been using it for going on a month now and have noticed how temperamental it can be if the rubbers aren't 100% cut right. Seems to like a LOT of liquid for slip.  I use a mixture of the Ettore and Moerman stuff and it guzzles through bottles in no time. 

 

Got browned off today and used a 12 inch S-Plus with a Razer and I had forgotten how nice they are to use, there's a lot to be said for ease of use. Also I'm unsure about everyone else but with the liquidator I find the rubber is constantly needing readjusted as it retracts in or goes out over the edge.

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scottish cleaning service
2 minutes ago, Bobd said:

I'm using the excellerator handle which looks similar to the ettore handle 

 

When I first got my liquidator it was a nightmare, lines everywhere. Eventually I came to the conclusion that the problem was the angle of attack, I think it was to shallow. So I put the handle in my vice and bent it up the way. Then it worked fine, so we found out it was the angle of attack that was the problem. Fix that and you will use it every day.

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rugbywolf

I have liquidator channels in a wagtail, brass handle and a liquidator handle, and it's the liquidator handle that is probably not up to scratch, the others are fine.

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Den

Spent two hours doing internals in one house today using just 10 and 14 combinator love the liquidator in whatever handle the older liquidators I found you had to put paper clips or cabletie offcuts in the end clips to stop them moving have just started to use the green unger clips they work spot on. 

 

The latest batch of liquidator 2.0 the end clips are extra tight and work great without modification, I prefer the razr red rubber when broken in after a couple or so houses.

 

As scottish cleaning service says the ettore contour pro plus is a nice handle to use.

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Daniel Perkins

Just got 14 inch fliq complete today and I was just wondering.. is this 5 inch hard rubber line on the fliq meant to be there? It keeps catching so I can't flick it properly, I actually have to push it against the glass. So before I cut it off I just wanted to make sure it is or isn't suppose to be there.

[ATTACH=full]13584[/ATTACH]

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20180423_155340.jpg

Edited by Daniel Perkins

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Ian M

Just some observations from a six month Moerman user.

 

I bought both the single pass version and the one with the fliq pad.

 

Mow I love the idea, and there were days when I was doing less detailing.

 

First I will comment on the single pass.

Ok for the cleaner windows like inside work. On outsides I struggled with my starting position,  also it was really poor on smaller panes.. Then one day it fell from my BOAB and broke. £ 3.50 plus VAT for a replacement Tbar plus the hassle of it happening. 

 

FLIQ  pad is defo my favourite,  that is wherd thd time is being saved. BUT the clips on the pad are already starting to wear and the pad is falling off... on one side. And the thing is it would be a crying shame if I had to purchase another pad over a worn clip.  ( I also have suspicions the pad can pick up small pieces of grit which could cause problems, so I rise it  out two or three times a day.) 

 

Then one day the adjustable handle snapped....

 

But here is where it got interesting. 

 

I dropped the Moerman channel into a cheap ledger handle that had lay unused for years. I wanted a longer handle so that the fliq pad would not wet my hand. The funny thing is that the handle does not grip the rubber at all. It just sits in the channel. At first I thought I would have to go down the toothpick, cable tie, end clip route to keep it in place, but I tried it at home and it worked fine without it. No movement. For the last two weeks I have been flying through the work with NO lines, and very little detailing. The Moerman channel has already been tweaked using hot water to lessen the dog~eating. 

 

So overall there are many pluses, BUT the tool needs to be more robust.

 

 

 

 

Edited by Ian M

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paulwills
No matter how many times I've tried with different rubber it leaves lines. I've tried both the 10 and 12 inch using both the ettore and the razr red. Just tried the 12 again using the ettore and it's leaving lines just about an inch left of the middle. The rubber is perfectly fine. It's frustrating because it cost quite a bit. 

Try cutting the rubbers about 1 mil over at each side , iv been ******* about with these things since they came out they are not great but that seems to work good for me


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Clisty1989
17 hours ago, Daniel Perkins said:

Just got 14 inch fliq complete today and I was just wondering.. is this 5 inch hard rubber line on the fliq meant to be there? It keeps catching so I can't flick it properly, I actually have to push it against the glass. So before I cut it off I just wanted to make sure it is or isn't suppose to be there.

[ATTACH=full]13584[/ATTACH]

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20180423_155340.jpg

It's supposed to be there, when new it's very stiff, but after a bit of use it softens up, stops it flicking over accidentally

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Daniel Perkins

Cheers pal was wondering was it a dud lol. What angle do you use yours at? I am trying to get along with the liquidator but just can't take to it. Change of angle, change of rubber, change of handle etc I have done all those things and still getting lines and skipping.

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Clisty1989
24 minutes ago, Daniel Perkins said:

Cheers pal was wondering was it a dud lol. What angle do you use yours at? I am trying to get along with the liquidator but just can't take to it. Change of angle, change of rubber, change of handle etc I have done all those things and still getting lines and skipping.

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In hand 25 degrees with exelerator handle. Double the amount of soap your using, I get lines when I don't use enough, it needs loads

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Bobd

Tried another ettore rubber and bought some ettore soap and it's totally changed my mind. Love it. The ettore soap is a bit dear but you only need a tiny amount. 

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