Storing Equipment and water

[P4dstar]

Yep build a a frame directly on the slabs using 65mm x 45mm treated framing timber laid flat. As long as the frame is joined to make one continuous, connected frame, right round, that's all you need. Build the rest of the framing up of of this using the same timber, finishing with a frame around the top for the roof, and rafters across to support the roof. Fence post timber is far too big. Make the shed to a size that will make best use of the length the t&g timber comes in, to reduce waste and save money. If you can build against a wall or fence that will add even more strength and save you some money.

The idea of fence post size timber was to support the extra weight of roof a lightweight metal roof and some UPVC windows. Its going to be a freestanding structure. against a fence but I wouldn't want to lean it on there.

What if I built the outer frame with large fence posts, the apex shape of the roof the same but the rest of the frame with timber, attached to the fence posts. If I'm going for a solid floor I could have the 4 corner fence posts concreted into the ground. Connected with fence post thick wood across the top. The very bottom of the structure a layer of bricks for the internal timber frame to sit on. That way the only wood touching the floor would be the fence posts that would be built into the concrete base. It may seem overkill but I could make that into a 2 part structure with a separate office area. My only concern is the wood expanding/contacting and twisting the entire thing.

 

[P4dstar]

On all the sheds that I have ever put together the walls are screwed to the floor. So if you have a solid base just drill frame and screw it down to the base. You could even use rawl bolts but that's probably overkill.

If you have timbers directly on the ground make sure they are pressure treated. 

I did think about having a shed directly on the floor as you don't have the the same strength issues. You would still need to insulate the floor somehow. Maybe 2" celotex and then thick OSB or ideally marine ply over the top but I'm not sure how much weight celotex can handle. 

If you go to B&Q and have a look inside the sheds you will see how flimsy the construction methods are. They normally use very thin timbers to make the frames. The sides by them selves are flimsy but once all screwed to the other sides and down to a base (Floor) it becomes much more rigid. Normally the roof is just OSB with maybe a couple of timbers along the apex and maybe 1 running fro apex to side of shed internally. The roof doesn't have to take much weight at all normally. 

We have a shed company just 200m from our house who also do made to measure, full pressure treated heavy duty sheds. We had them round to measure up for a 4ft x 8ft shed to fit in narrow gap between houses. 

This is the heavy duty spec:

Constructed using 75mm x 50mm framework throughout
Clad in 19mm tongue & groove timber
32mm x 75mm pressure treated floor joists

Unfortunately even though they measured the gap between the 2 houses they made it too big to fit. They took away to correct, returned and again too big, third time they came and they had chopped it about so much even the felt was patched!!! So we told them to stick it...

Bought a Keter Factor 4x6ft shed and it's great, fitted perfectly in the gap. That would just fit an ibc I think. You would have to put the ibc in as you construct though as the door isn't wide enough!  Not sure the base would hold an ibc but you could cut an ibc sides hole in base and place ibc on insulation? You would need to check ibc dimensions as it might be too tight to fit.

I started by looking at the keter stuff, as well as the sheds in B&Q etc, I think I want to go bigger if I can. If I start it I'll have to finish it is my theory, I'll get someone to lay the base to my dimensions and then go for it. As long as the build is complete before December I should be alight to work from under a tarp for now I reckon.

 

[Davy G]

The idea of fence post size timber was to support the extra weight of roof a lightweight metal roof and some UPVC windows. Its going to be a freestanding structure. against a fence but I wouldn't want to lean it on there.

What if I built the outer frame with large fence posts, the apex shape of the roof the same but the rest of the frame with timber, attached to the fence posts. If I'm going for a solid floor I could have the 4 corner fence posts concreted into the ground. Connected with fence post thick wood across the top. The very bottom of the structure a layer of bricks for the internal timber frame to sit on. That way the only wood touching the floor would be the fence posts that would be built into the concrete base. It may seem overkill but I could make that into a 2 part structure with a separate office area. My only concern is the wood expanding/contacting and twisting the entire thing.

It's a matter of scale I wouldn't use fence posts unless you're building a handy sized barn?. I wouldn't set posts in concrete as they will probably rot below ground level. You can bolt the bottom frames to the concrete pad with 8mm dia coachscrews, it won't move, I can assure you. If you want to you could run a roll of 100mm damp-proof membrane unber the bottom framing to separate it from the concrete or slabs. It won't twist or deform. I definitely would not use heavy timbers to support the roof. It's the correct amount of strength that's needed, not unnecessary weight.

To make it easier build each of the four frames in their entirety laying flat on the ground including integrating the door and window frames. Then stand them in position and screw them together. I wouldn't be messing with bricks. If you keep the t&g about 5-8mm off the ground and paint it with shed paint it will last for years. I'd make a single structure and put a partition in after if you want to.

 

[P4dstar]

I definitely would not use heavy timbers to support the roof. It's the correct amount of strength that's needed, not unnecessary weight.

This is the sticking point. If the outer frame is made from heavy timbers its giving extra support all round, as you rightly point out they have their own weight too. Even if they make up the apex I assume there is a point where their weight becomes detrimental?

Do you think a standard build shed without a floor frame would support the weight of Corotile (or similar)? And a couple UPVC windows for good measure.

 

[ched999uk]

Do you think a standard build shed without a floor frame would support the weight of Corotile (or similar)? And a couple UPVC windows for good measure.

Just add some extra supports and you will be fine. Add frames round the window going up to roof edge and down to floor level. Most sheds have frames on the windows so just beef them up a bit to help the upvc windows fit as they will be thicker.

You could add extra roof supports that tie in above the window support verticals so the weight is transferred via the stronger timbers.

 

[Davy G]

This is the sticking point. If the outer frame is made from heavy timbers its giving extra support all round, as you rightly point out they have their own weight too. Even if they make up the apex I assume there is a point where their weight becomes detrimental?

Do you think a standard build shed without a floor frame would support the weight of Corotile (or similar)? And a couple UPVC windows for good measure.

If you make the shed to scale with the framing timber I suggested it will support the roof to scale. And the windows. I'm no carpenter but I've built a lot of sheds as an amateur. I think that size framing timber will suit up to at least 10 feet wide and whatever length you want to go.

 

[Iron Giant]

If its an apex shed I'm trying to work out if the wooden frame needs the support of the wooden floor to help hold it together.

A pent roof would be easier I would have thought as in a flat sloping roof to the back.

 

[P4dstar]

A pent roof would be easier I would have thought as in a flat sloping roof to the back.

I think if I want it partitioned that will probably be best ?

If you make the shed to scale with the framing timber I suggested it will support the roof to scale. And the windows. I'm no carpenter but I've built a lot of sheds as an amateur. I think that size framing timber will suit up to at least 10 feet wide and whatever length you want to go.

Would your opinion on that change if it were a pent roof instead of an apex? Say 14ft wide by 8ft deep?