Where to get a system rewired

[P4dstar]

Evening chaps. As some of you know I’ve had a battery warning on my Grippa hot water system since it was installed. I’ve changed the batteries several times. Most recently last week two new ER500’s were put on. Given a good charge and have been plugged in on charge every night. I’ve connected by Bluetooth and checked the charger is working. The bat symbol popped up again this afternoon. We had two men on the van for the first time since the batteries were replaced.

Secondary issue has popped up, there is a random number flashing on the controller. Yesterday it was 5, today that became 4. It flashes every few seconds regardless if the system is on or off. I’ve spoken to Ian from Spring and ran through several different things. I think we have a faulty temp probe and the number thing might be linked.

So that’s where I’m at with it. At this point I have to assume there is a wiring fault. 4 sets of batteries can’t be faulty! Can anyone suggest someone who might be able to change the entire wiring system? I’m not going to expect someone to find the fault per se, I imagine they would just be happier replacing the whole lot. I wonder if the length of wires used or some dodgy connections along the way are to blame.

 

[ched999uk]

It will probably be a poor connection. You might struggle to find someone who has done this work before but it's fairly basic stuff I would guess most auto electricians could sort it.
What you could do is start at the battery end and follow the wires to the hot water system, check each connection as you get to it. Ideally use a multimeter and check the voltage drop at each connection, that should help you find the voltage drop issue. Ideally test when it's running as the more current it's pulling the easier it will be to spot a voltage drop at a connection point.

 

[Pjj]

You need a good marine or auto electrician who knows what he’s doing it would be a simple job for them

 

[P4dstar]

Thanks chaps. I have previously contacted a number of auto electricians, most just give it a wide berth. It seems they all want to install stereos and run diagnostics. I contacted van conversion places and they just turned us down. There was one willing to have a look but they’ve done some work before (fitting reversing sensors) and left quite a bit of poor workmanship. I might give Cheds idea a go and trace back the connections. One of my big points was the battery connection itself, I’m confident they’re secure and I’ve used copper grease on the terminals to. Not sure what else can be done there.

 

[ched999uk]

I'm guessing that for most auto electricians a diesel heater is well out of their comfort zone. I wonder if a truck service centre might be better or a canal boat service place as both have similar heaters.
If you go for tracing connections, use a multimeter and test +ve voltage at every joint or connection, you also need to test all -ve connections. It sounds like a hight resistance connection is causing a voltage drop at the heater. Maybe a corroded earth, or iffy fuse connection.

 

[spruce]

I'm guessing that for most auto electricians a diesel heater is well out of their comfort zone. I wonder if a truck service centre might be better or a canal boat service place as both have similar heaters.
If you go for tracing connections, use a multimeter and test +ve voltage at every joint or connection, you also need to test all -ve connections. It sounds like a hight resistance connection is causing a voltage drop at the heater. Maybe a corroded earth, or iffy fuse connection.

The fuse holders are a good start.

 

[spruce]

You need a good marine or auto electrician who knows what he’s doing it would be a simple job for them

I'm afraid finding a good auto electrician is getting harder and harder these days. You have a good marine electrician, but I'm not sure how many of them are left now. It's the old guys who were taught properly, completed exams and have a wealth of experience behind them, are all getting/got to retirement age. The youngsters replacing them are, in my experience, with a few exceptions, a total waste of time.

 

[clearview]

My first check would be to make sure it’s got a good clean earth as I had issues with mine saying voltage was low on the v16 controller but when measured at the battery was 13 odd volts so put a second earth on the tank/frame and was spot on.

 

[dazmond]

Evening chaps. As some of you know I’ve had a battery warning on my Grippa hot water system since it was installed. I’ve changed the batteries several times. Most recently last week two new ER500’s were put on. Given a good charge and have been plugged in on charge every night. I’ve connected by Bluetooth and checked the charger is working. The bat symbol popped up again this afternoon. We had two men on the van for the first time since the batteries were replaced.

Secondary issue has popped up, there is a random number flashing on the controller. Yesterday it was 5, today that became 4. It flashes every few seconds regardless if the system is on or off. I’ve spoken to Ian from Spring and ran through several different things. I think we have a faulty temp probe and the number thing might be linked.

So that’s where I’m at with it. At this point I have to assume there is a wiring fault. 4 sets of batteries can’t be faulty! Can anyone suggest someone who might be able to change the entire wiring system? I’m not going to expect someone to find the fault per se, I imagine they would just be happier replacing the whole lot. I wonder if the length of wires used or some dodgy connections along the way are to blame.

First thing I would do is check the fuses and fuse holders. When I had the low battery warning(3 long flashes)it was a simple case of changing a fuse holder and fuse. Grippa made it easier by having these connected by bullet connections on each end so easy to swap out yourself

You just need the fuse holder,fuse,some bullet connectors and a crimping tool.....easy peasy.

 

[P4dstar]

Thanks chaps. I do think fuses are the starting point. Ian Sheppard at Spring also suggested that as a potential problem so I imagine it’s common. Then I’ll follow up with the earth wire. I’ll have to test it by sticking two of us on that van.

 

[Ian Sheppard]

Ho Patrick were you able to trace the issue?

 

[P4dstar]

Ho Patrick were you able to trace the issue?

Not yet Ian. I have a chap coming on Monday and look over the wiring an see what he can do.

 

[P4dstar]

I don’t suppose anyone would be able to point me in the direction of a wiring diagram for a Grippa System?

 

[ched999uk]

I don’t suppose anyone would be able to point me in the direction of a wiring diagram for a Grippa System?

I doubt there is one! They probably just do it as they go. It shouldn't be too difficult to fathom though.
You will have battery, controllers, pump, maybe tds meters, fill/flush controller, float switch and a few valves. You will probably have 12v charging system and maybe mains charging/booster pump.

As the controller is coming up with low voltage warnings then I would follow the controller supply cables back to the battery and check the voltage at every connection point.

Good luck, hope it's and easy fix.

 

[P4dstar]

I doubt there is one! They probably just do it as they go. It shouldn't be too difficult to fathom though.
You will have battery, controllers, pump, maybe tds meters, fill/flush controller, float switch and a few valves. You will probably have 12v charging system and maybe mains charging/booster pump.

As the controller is coming up with low voltage warnings then I would follow the controller supply cables back to the battery and check the voltage at every connection point.

Good luck, hope it's and easy fix.

I'm not doing it myself. Tony is coming to have a look. He's a retired engineer and a very good one. He fitted my split charge relay to my Dispatch years ago. Didn't like the idea of it threading under the van so took the dash to pieces and routed it that way. Absolute diamond and a top job every time. He was the one who asked for the diagram.

I have the manual. I was given this after they told me about the call out charge if they deem you're at fault. They told me how it's on page x of the manual. I asked how this was fair when a. I'm willing to go through tech support on the phone and determine what has caused the fault and b. you don't get given the manual until after you've purchased something. Call out charges for warranty repairs is information that should be available prior to sale.

 

[CMcB]

The more I read this thread the more I’m thinking that the answer is take it to @ched999uk

 

[P4dstar]

So the end result... Couple of connections needed tightening. No issues at the fuse box. The main earthing wire was installed to the bulk head, is smaller than the earth wire connecting the two batteries and has been installed on a painted surface. The only change we can make is to find a point on the chassis to earth to and increase the size of the cable to 16mm. Failing that remove some paint from the bulkhead to expose bare metal and this may resolve the problem... So I'm told of course. I understand the reasoning for none of the above.

 

[ched999uk]

I understand the reasoning for none of the above.

Sounds like he found the issue and a few extra ones that might not help down the line.

The -ve battery connections (main earth wire) use the chassis/bodywork of the van to connect to the alternator and van battery. So if there is one connection that is a thinner gauge it's like having a 6mm hose between your tank and pump (i.e. it restricts the flow).
The -ve to the bulkhead via a painted connection is going to be a poor connection (like having a tap half closed restricting the flow) so it will probably show a lower voltage at the battery than it should - this will effect charging via the split or b2b battery charger in the van.

Electricity is similar to water in a hose, you have pressure and flow - electricity you have voltage and amps. If you close off a tap you might still have same pressure but flow would be lower. If you have a poor connection you will reduce voltage. Good clean electrical connections are like drip free joints in your hose - they pass all voltage and current along the cables - all water passes to the reel

Main thing is you have a solution. You could just increase the size of the bulkhead cable and use a shakeproof washer to cut through the paint but you will need to apply something over it to seal out moisture preventing rust. I'm assuming the bulkhead is metal and has a good connection to chassis. Alternatively you could replace that cable with one that goes right back to the van battery.

 

[P4dstar]

Sounds like he found the issue and a few extra ones that might not help down the line.

The -ve battery connections (main earth wire) use the chassis/bodywork of the van to connect to the alternator and van battery. So if there is one connection that is a thinner gauge it's like having a 6mm hose between your tank and pump (i.e. it restricts the flow).
The -ve to the bulkhead via a painted connection is going to be a poor connection (like having a tap half closed restricting the flow) so it will probably show a lower voltage at the battery than it should - this will effect charging via the split or b2b battery charger in the van.

Electricity is similar to water in a hose, you have pressure and flow - electricity you have voltage and amps. If you close off a tap you might still have same pressure but flow would be lower. If you have a poor connection you will reduce voltage. Good clean electrical connections are like drip free joints in your hose - they pass all voltage and current along the cables - all water passes to the reel

Main thing is you have a solution. You could just increase the size of the bulkhead cable and use a shakeproof washer to cut through the paint but you will need to apply something over it to seal out moisture preventing rust. I'm assuming the bulkhead is metal and has a good connection to chassis. Alternatively you could replace that cable with one that goes right back to the van battery.

Definitely not back to the van battery, that would need to be via the dash etc. Far too much effort there. I think if I thread through to the cab I should find a much more suitable earthing point. It's a metal bulk head but its fully painted so I guess we could get a better connection elsewhere.