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DI resin vessel or buy pure water

WCF

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Others will answer this better than me but I would have thought you wouldn’t need a booster as you’re not going to be needing to produce much water initially
 
Hi, my water pressure is 50 PSI. Would I need a booster pump?
This is when you get in touch with Daqua and you tell him to recommend a system you can use with the info you have given us.
I would certainly consider a small r/o, somewhere around 450gpd. That will always give you as a single operator enough water when filled into a 1000 litre IBC tank. Doug will recommend membranes that will work reasonably well at 50psi water pressure without a booster. (When I had a 450GPD r/o, I had Filmtec membranes, which were fine with 50psi water pressure.)
A small r/o will take what seems to be an eternity to fill your IBC tank, especially in winter, but once full you will have more than enough for your every day needs.
 
This is when you get in touch with Daqua and you tell him to recommend a system you can use with the info you have given us.
I would certainly consider a small r/o, somewhere around 450gpd. That will always give you as a single operator enough water when filled into a 1000 litre IBC tank. Doug will recommend membranes that will work reasonably well at 50psi water pressure without a booster. (When I had a 450GPD r/o, I had Filmtec membranes, which were fine with 50psi water pressure.)
A small r/o will take what seems to be an eternity to fill your IBC tank, especially in winter, but once full you will have more than enough for your every day needs.
Cheers Spruce, that's great help. I'll contact Doug next week. I've picked up 2x retail outlet font doors/windows and signs and 5 residential customers just by mention it. Got some cars printed, so I'll go out canvasing next week. Really greatful for all the help and advice.
 
I have used double di in the past . TDS was 80 . But a couple of years back it shot up to 250 , . Got a Merlin . Just moved house and the tds is 80 , happy with that . But I’m on a water meter . Not happy about that .so I am going back to double di . But some of you recommend using a sediment filter and carbon block before the resin . My question is , do these lower the tds before the water goes through the resin . Cheers .
 
I have used double di in the past . TDS was 80 . But a couple of years back it shot up to 250 , . Got a Merlin . Just moved house and the tds is 80 , happy with that . But I’m on a water meter . Not happy about that .so I am going back to double di . But some of you recommend using a sediment filter and carbon block before the resin . My question is , do these lower the tds before the water goes through the resin . Cheers .
Yes and no. The sediment filter will prevent most sediment contaminating the resin. So yes.

The carbon block removes chlorine which is a dissolved solid when it comes out of the tap as and when it's present. The resin would remove any chlorine, so you are saving it a job.

I wouldn't bother to stick to the recommended carbon block replacement advice personally. If the manufacturers suggest you replace the c/b filter every 12,000 liters, I would extend that as sometimes there won't be any chlorine in the water. Chlorine destroys membrane material. Chlorine in the water won't damage the resin.

Chlorine is a strange anomaly. Overseas, we only put chlorine into our swimming pool at night as the sun removed or burnt it off during the day.
 
Yes and no. The sediment filter will prevent most sediment contaminating the resin. So yes.

The carbon block removes chlorine which is a dissolved solid when it comes out of the tap as and when it's present. The resin would remove any chlorine, so you are saving it a job.

I wouldn't bother to stick to the recommended carbon block replacement advice personally. If the manufacturers suggest you replace the c/b filter every 12,000 liters, I would extend that as sometimes there won't be any chlorine in the water. Chlorine destroys membrane material. Chlorine in the water won't damage the resin.

Chlorine is a strange anomaly. Overseas, we only put chlorine into our swimming pool at night as the sun removed or burnt it off during the day.
How much sediment would there be though if the water is coming from a mains supply?
Is there really enough in it to actually make any kind of difference to the resin?
I had never really thought about this.
If there is a decent amount of sediment then it probably would be an advantage to pre filter the water before the double di.
My only issue with this is that I used to use solely rainwater through a di. I never changed the resin in over 9 months as the tds stayed at 001-002 from 009 that was the reading of the actually rainwater.
When I moved house and went on a mains supply I did change the resin and it was virtually black with gunge.
Yet the results on the windows at work and my own house showed that the water was drying off perfect.
Doesn’t make any sense???
 
some of you recommend using a sediment filter and carbon block before the resin . My question is , do these lower the tds before the water goes through the resin . Cheers .
No, no reduction on TDS but they will stop some rubbish entering the resin plus remove the chlorine.
 
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