Moerman ( again!!!)

[Bobd]

Change this handle, swap that paper clip, cut a cable tie and throw out the rubber.............

Yeah... I'll just stick to my S-Plus. ?

Do you use the green clips on your s plus? I get lines from it. Not sure if it's down to movement in the rubber. 

 

[scottish cleaning service]

I still use same moerman rubber it came with but I don't have any wooden windows to clean.

 

[Green Pro Clean Ltd]

Do you use the green clips on your s plus? I get lines from it. Not sure if it's down to movement in the rubber. 

Errmm..... ... theres no clips on my splus channels mate. 

 

[scottish cleaning service]

After all those months of wondering why we get lines with a moerman liquidator I think @Ian M has hit the nail on the head with his comment "I dropped the Moerman channel into a cheap ledger handle that had lay unused for years. I wanted a longer handle so that the fliq pad would not wet my hand. The funny thing is that the handle does not grip the rubber at all. It just sits in the channel"

What he is actually saying is the new handle doesn't touch the rubber, so allows it to run free. That's why the contour pro plus works so well with the liquidator channel. Eventually we have found the answer. happy days :1f609:

 

[Ian M]

After all those months of wondering why we get lines with a moerman liquidator I think @Ian M has hit the nail on the head with his comment "I dropped the Moerman channel into a cheap ledger handle that had lay unused for years. I wanted a longer handle so that the fliq pad would not wet my hand. The funny thing is that the handle does not grip the rubber at all. It just sits in the channel"

What he is actually saying is the new handle doesn't touch the rubber, so allows it to run free. That's why the contour pro plus works so well with the liquidator channel. Eventually we have found the answer. happy days :1f609:

It seems to run contrary to logic to let the rubber sit free but there you go...

I have found since I made the discovery I am flying through the work as I am not having to inspect the glass as much. 

Paranoid no more.

 

[scottish cleaning service]

It seems to run contrary to logic to let the rubber sit free but there you go...

I have found since I made the discovery I am flying through the work as I am not having to inspect the glass as much. 

Paranoid no more.

Leading edge rubber has got to run free or lines will happen at the tight bits.

 

[Daniel Perkins]

Had a good use over the last few days. I like the Fliq in hand although I have had issues with the plastic line on top of pad making the "flicking" movement too rigid so sometimes it prevents you from closing out properly as it keep catching. I'll see if this loosens up over time but really still should not have to put up with that.

Also I was using the Fliq for pole work today and it was useless. When lifting the pole up to wash the windows, the pad won't stay upright against he glass, it keeps falling down at an angle where the pad is not against the glass. So if you can imagine, I have to press the pad against the glass at eye level and slide up up the glass, which doesn't really work if there is is panelled frames. Mildly irritating to say the least.

 

[Clisty1989]

Had a good use over the last few days. I like the Fliq in hand although I have had issues with the plastic line on top of pad making the "flicking" movement too rigid so sometimes it prevents you from closing out properly as it keep catching. I'll see if this loosens up over time but really still should not have to put up with that.

Also I was using the Fliq for pole work today and it was useless. When lifting the pole up to wash the windows, the pad won't stay upright against he glass, it keeps falling down at an angle where the pad is not against the glass. So if you can imagine, I have to press the pad against the glass at eye level and slide up up the glass, which doesn't really work if there is is panelled frames. Mildly irritating to say the least.

Which way you got the pad? Over is better on pole, under in hand

 

[Daniel Perkins]

Which way you got the pad? Over is better on pole, under in hand

Had it under for both mate. Unclipping and changing mid clean just seems a bit much for me.

 

[Clisty1989]

Had it under for both mate. Unclipping and changing mid clean just seems a bit much for me.

I know what u mean, I'm the other way round, tend to keep it over and use my thumb to keep it held back when in hand

 

[Daniel Perkins]

I will give it a fair go and if still having issues... that's me done with moerman squeegees... as the product clearly needs work.

Sent using the Window Cleaning Forums mobile app

 

[Brandon]

 
Leading edge rubber has got to run free or lines will happen at the tight bits.

How do you stop the rubber sliding out the channel?

 

[scottish cleaning service]

How do you stop the rubber sliding out the channel?

Blue clips on the ends.

 

[Eric Gilliand]

You do what works. 10 and 12 on short and longer poles with Fliq attached on top. Any glass in easy reach I use scrubber in right, bare Excelerator 12 or 14 in Left (yep I’m a leftie). Easier on the body. The Excelerator with Fliq in hand and saturated is just too heavy for constant in hand use, you may not think so, but over a period of time with predominantly one handed use? Hello Mr Physio...

 

[Daniel Perkins]

I have enough repetitive strain going on at moment to last me a life time. I do commercial work so I mostly use the large wide body squeegees. I got the fliq for smaller awkward panes of glass.

Sent using the Window Cleaning Forums mobile app

 

[Brandon]

 
Blue clips on the ends.

DIY jobby or bought ones? If bought, you got a link?
Cheers

 

[Clisty1989]

DIY jobby or bought ones? If bought, you got a link?
Cheers

Think he means the blue end clips on it, V2 clips hold the rubber quite well

 

[james82]

 
It seems to run contrary to logic to let the rubber sit free but there you go...
 
I have found since I made the discovery I am flying through the work as I am not having to inspect the glass as much. 
 
Paranoid no more.

IV been using the liquidator channel contour pro plus red razer rubber and green unger end clips but iv noticed 2 thin lines near the end of where I blade. Do you think that's caused by the green end clips? I also wondered if it's because I had to change one of the fixed ends after dropping and breaking one of the ends?
I'm interested to what you think. Thanks

Sent using the Window Cleaning Forums mobile app

 

[Ian M]

Hi James,

The Moerman channel works best for me when NOTHING but the channel holds the rubber in place. 

I even bent back the dog ear on blue end clips. 

I know logic says that the rubber will move or fall out of the channel but it hasn't on me so far.

Even the handle doesn't come in contact with the rubber 

I have attached a few pics to help explain when I mean.

I hope it helps

Ian

 

[james82]

Thanks mate that does help.

Sent using the Window Cleaning Forums mobile app

 

[Brandon]

Hi James,
 
The Moerman channel works best for me when NOTHING but the channel holds the rubber in place. 
 
I even bent back the dog ear on blue end clips. 
I know logic says that the rubber will move or fall out of the channel but it hasn't on me so far.
 
Even the handle doesn't come in contact with the rubber 
 
I have attached a few pics to help explain when I mean.
 
I hope it helps
 
Ian
View attachment 13621
View attachment 13622

When you say you bent the clips back, is that to grip the rubber more or to move them so they don’t touch the rubber, if that makes sense?

Because I tried what you said - using nothing but the channel - and the rubber kept shifting and sliding so I had to keep readjusting it. The clips don’t really do much, and I’m just worried that if I start bending them then I’ll really mess up the channel and I’m back to square one.

I love the concept behind the Liquidator but getting them to work is a real pain and shouldn’t be this difficult.