New Gardiner gooseneck

[Pjj]

Swap a couple of brand new old style fir the new one ?

I changed the new swivel end and put it on the old bit that goes into the end of the pole ??

 

[Den]

I changed the new swivel end and put it on the old bit that goes into the end of the pole ??

That’s what I do when changing new swivel on my poles hence why I have lots of extra goosenecks ?

 

[Master Jedi Alejandro]

So what is the advantage of this new design? Struggling to see the benefits over the old one though I'm probably just being thick ?

 

[ched999uk]

So what is the advantage of this new design? Struggling to see the benefits over the old one though I'm probably just being thick ?

I think it's just solving the problem of people using univalves pulling on the brush hose and snapping the jets! 

But while it solves that problem it seems to have created an issue for anyone wanting to use a hoseless system as you can't get the correct length of pipe, as both ends are a fixed pole length between them!

 

[Marko067]

If hoseless is important to you it can be done, just not with the exceed kit.  You'll need to have a short hosetail at the base of the pole.  Lots of us work this way using a straight JG connector at the base of the pole.  There's also no need for a pole bung in the top section this way.  Might not be to everyone's liking but has worked for me for years.

 

[Pjj]

If hoseless is important to you it can be done, just not with the exceed kit.  You'll need to have a short hosetail at the base of the pole.  Lots of us work this way using a straight JG connector at the base of the pole.  There's also no need for a pole bung in the top section this way.  Might not be to everyone's liking but has worked for me for years.

I don’t like the hose tail out the end of the pole I like the bung in the top section ,so far I haven’t come up with a way of doing this wjth that new goose neck thingy 

 

[Den]

If hoseless is important to you it can be done, just not with the exceed kit.  You'll need to have a short hosetail at the base of the pole.  Lots of us work this way using a straight JG connector at the base of the pole.  There's also no need for a pole bung in the top section this way.  Might not be to everyone's liking but has worked for me for years.

Have been using this system since yourself and @Dave B told me about a few years ago simple and effective ?

 

[P4dstar]

If hoseless is important to you it can be done, just not with the exceed kit.  You'll need to have a short hosetail at the base of the pole.  Lots of us work this way using a straight JG connector at the base of the pole.  There's also no need for a pole bung in the top section this way.  Might not be to everyone's liking but has worked for me for years.

Have been using this system since yourself and @Dave B told me about a few years ago simple and effective ?

I know you two both use this but is it not messy? Leaks etc I mean. Also, do the straight connectors not come loose when you pull the univalve? I currently use rectus 21 fittings on the end of the pole hose and the base of the pole, the push fit connectors could save me a fortune though as the rectus fittings only last 5 minutes.

 

[Den]

I know you two both use this but is it not messy? Leaks etc I mean. Also, do the straight connectors not come loose when you pull the univalve? I currently use rectus 21 fittings on the end of the pole hose and the base of the pole, the push fit connectors could save me a fortune though as the rectus fittings only last 5 minutes.

No not really occasionally if not paying  attention you may get a little spray if disconnecting I only disconnect a couple of times a day if and only I need to change a pole, as the extreme 18’ covers most of my work. 

If I disconnect a pole and leave the connection I bend the pole hose over I tuck the pole hose into a bit of garden hose. Very simple ,e but effective, and no it doesn’t effect the Pu pole hose being doing it years on the same bit of hose.

 

[Marko067]

I use PU pole hose and have very few disconnection issues.  Yes it can happen but it's been rare for me.   

If using PVC pole hose, you will need to fit a JG barb on the hose as the softer PVC material does tend to pull out of a JG connector specially when tugging on it to operate a univalve. Also if you use hot water it may be beneficial to use a JG barb on the hose as this softens the hose.

As regards leaks, I used to find I had more leak issues with Rectus fittings as no matter how tight I squeezed the O clips it was not easy to get a complete watertight fit between PU and metal.  

 

[P4dstar]

Well chaps, I have just removed my rectus fittings between pole hose and reel hose. I've gone for some reducing barbs. The only rectus fittings left are on the pole hose and the end of the pole. I've recently started using Phantom poles along with my Gardiner ones, the rectus fittings sometimes disconnect as you extend. I'll give it a go switching over to push fit connections. I've got some stem to barb fittings so should be able to knock something up.

I can see a little rectus fitting in the background though @Den, what's that all about. Cost a fortune those things haha.

 

[Den]

Well chaps, I have just removed my rectus fittings between pole hose and reel hose. I've gone for some reducing barbs. The only rectus fittings left are on the pole hose and the end of the pole. I've recently started using Phantom poles along with my Gardiner ones, the rectus fittings sometimes disconnect as you extend. I'll give it a go switching over to push fit connections. I've got some stem to barb fittings so should be able to knock something up.

I can see a little rectus fitting in the background though @Den, what's that all about. Cost a fortune those things haha.

The rectus 21 is if my son gets a airlock instead of disconnecting at the reel it’s an extra so the waterflow goes straight out of the back of the van just a double connector for that reason.

I ordered a few rectus 26 fittings from China so when that messes up I will change to them as I really don’t like the rectus 21. 

 

[Jango]

I’m using this with a univalve not had any issues, I love it ?

And @Pjj I have just bought the new gooseneck. Got the longer pole hose piece for close coupled swivel. I see it doesn’t run right through like before. So on the bottom end have you put the John guest barb then the pole hose to the bottom of that? Or put the pole hose straight onto the plastic thin bit? 
do you think the thin piece of plastic will break off easily or not. Some people must have been doing the testing. 

 

[Alex Gardiner]

And @Pjj I have just bought the new gooseneck. Got the longer pole hose piece for close coupled swivel. I see it doesn’t run right through like before. So on the bottom end have you put the John guest barb then the pole hose to the bottom of that? Or put the pole hose straight onto the plastic thin bit? 
do you think the thin piece of plastic will break off easily or not. Some people must have been doing the testing. 

Hi Jango

On the bottom end of this new gooseneck is a straight 8mm shaft - the ideal connector to use on this is our new 8mm push-fit to 5mm barb fitting - this then allows your pole hose top be pushed and clipped on and allows for quick and simple removal from the gooseneck shaft as needed. In the future all of our pole hose supplied with have this fitting on one end.

You can push the pole hose directly on to the straight shaft, but it is a tight fit - to do so heat up the end of the pole hose and slide over the shaft - then O clip securely in place.

We have had these in testing for about 12 months prior to our release of them and the bottom shaft is very tough in testing.

 

[Pjj]

And @Pjj I have just bought the new gooseneck. Got the longer pole hose piece for close coupled swivel. I see it doesn’t run right through like before. So on the bottom end have you put the John guest barb then the pole hose to the bottom of that? Or put the pole hose straight onto the plastic thin bit? 
do you think the thin piece of plastic will break off easily or not. Some people must have been doing the testing. 

I have used the original bottom part of the goose neck that goes into the pole and fitted the new swivel other half to the original of that makes sense , I don’t like the new fittings as we use hoseless set up and like the hose through the goose neck , we don’t use univalves . 

 

[Iron Giant]

I don’t like the hose tail out the end of the pole I like the bung in the top section ,so far I haven’t come up with a way of doing this wjth that new goose neck thingy 

If you have multiple poles for higher work and don't need to add extensions then that's fine,

but I never got away with the intended way the exceed sleeve should be set up then over the years I prefer the hose tail to add and remove sections as required and the cleaning and servicing of the rectus fittings is easier although not needed without the sleeve,

I always found overtime with the sleeve the rectus fittings got covered and jammed up with carbon dust.. 

 

[Den]

Hi Jango

On the bottom end of this new gooseneck is a straight 8mm shaft - the ideal connector to use on this is our new 8mm push-fit to 5mm barb fitting - this then allows your pole hose top be pushed and clipped on and allows for quick and simple removal from the gooseneck shaft as needed. In the future all of our pole hose supplied with have this fitting on one end.

You can push the pole hose directly on to the straight shaft, but it is a tight fit - to do so heat up the end of the pole hose and slide over the shaft - then O clip securely in place.

We have had these in testing for about 12 months prior to our release of them and the bottom shaft is very tough in testing.

On my 25’ poles I leave abut 20” of extra pole hose for extensions up to 44’ 

 

[Jonny 67]

If hoseless is important to you it can be done, just not with the exceed kit.  You'll need to have a short hosetail at the base of the pole.  Lots of us work this way using a straight JGconnector at the base of the pole.  There's also no need for a pole bung in the top section this way.  Might not be toeveryone's liking but has worked for me for years.

Hi PJJ, any chance of a pic of hose tail or link to required fittings, as I'm fitting this gooseneck with tubeless this weekend. TIA

 

[Pjj]

If hoseless is important to you it can be done, just not with the exceed kit.  You'll need to have a short hosetail at the base of the pole.  Lots of us work this way using a straight JGconnector at the base of the pole.  There's also no need for a pole bung in the top section this way.  Might not be toeveryone's liking but has worked for me for years.

Hi PJJ, any chance of a pic of hose tail or link to required fittings, as I'm fitting this gooseneck with tubeless this weekend. TIA

This is how we do it 

 

[Jonny 67]

Thank you very much PJJ...

 

[Davy G]

So what is the advantage of this new design? Struggling to see the benefits over the old one though I'm probably just being thick ?

I don't see the advantage either apart from the hose stop on the Gooseneck but I quite liked giving a bit of trade to @Skxawngo  for his ones which do the job fine.

I fitted a Univalve and Hoseless to my new Extreme 22. It was a nightmare with the new type swivel Gooseneck which won't let the hose through. The Univalve was easy enough but the fitting of the Hoseless was made incredibly and unnecessarily difficult. The only way I found in the end to get the hose length right was to stretch the hose past the bottom of the pole, hold it stretched temporarily with a cable tie, cut it and fit the male fitting (without pushing the hose back inside the pole), then remove the cable tie to let the fitting move back into the correct position (this took a few attempts). Extremely tricky and difficult to do and get right.

I don't see the advantage of having an unnecessary joint in the system inside the pole, when the hose could go through the old Gooseneck as was, and adjustment of fittings positioning would be straight forward, as was. Far too complicated and time consuming now. If a mistake is made there's the nightmare of having to dismantle nearly everything and start again, with no guarantee of getting it right this time either. I can honestly say there was a lot of WTF! and OH FFS! being muttered under my breath the last couple of days while I tried to figure and sort it, till I finally finished it an hour ago.

If you're thick @Master Jedi Alejandro
you're not alone. I could see no other way of doing it than the way I did, at the time. The idea of it being necessary to cannibalise an existing Gooseneck to make a new one workable is boiling my brain cell. Honestly, a large part of my weekend taken up unnecessarily, trying to figure it out. Laugh! I will I suppose but not just yet. ?