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Spotting

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TBH @Gasketa new r/o should be giving a better result than 17ppm after r/o with an input of 253.ppm. @Dengot there first and he is right.

This means your r/o is only removing 93% of the dissolved solids in the water. We were once told many years ago by a supplier in Scotland (Peter Fogwill) that when the pure water quality dropped to 94%, it was time to replace membranes.

If this is a brand new system then some have found it take a little time for the membranes to settle down. An efficiently operating membrane should remove 97 to 98% of the dissolved solids (minerals) in the water.

If your membranes were achieving 98% then the remaining tds your resin would need to polish off would be 5ppm, so your resin would last much longer.

According to the resin calculator

https://www.windowcleaningwarehouse.co.uk/resin-calculator.html

25 liters of resin should polish off 41176 liters at 17ppm. So the resin isn't working as it should if its only done 700 liters. The target figure should be around 1650 liters per 1 liter of resin. Obviously these resin calculators aren't 100% accurate as they are influenced by many different factors, but they shouldn't be a million miles away from that figure.

There are also differing grades of resin. Poor grades aren't expected to last as long as premium grades. Unfortunately, according to suppliers they all carry the best resin.

We have found Tulsion MB115 works well for us, and we would only buy it from Daqua or Gardiners as you are assured of good quality. There has been some talk about the resin PureFreedom is supplying and reading between the lines, I wouldn't buy resin from them.

I don't have any issues with Pure Freedom and believe that in general they do make affordable systems which I have often recommended. Its just the resin they sell I have an issue with.
Funny you should say that Spruce, I filled a canister last night, half with Tulsion 115 from Gardiners and half with the same from Pure Freedom. The Pure freedom resin was noticeably moist in comparison which worried me a little, never had that before but never ordered from anywhere but Gardiners before.

 
Guys really appreciate all the help and advice on here ?


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Guys really appreciate all the help and advice on here ?


Sent from my iPhone using Window Cleaning Forums

Guys really appreciate all the help and advice on here ?


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Flushing is what I was going to say after reading all of the thread. 
 
At OP, what flow rate are you using? A slow flow and not enough rinsing could leave spots.
 
*side note, I was working on a new build estate yesterday and saw another windy cleaning a few houses up the road. I stopped and watched him work. It was painful to watch, he was scrubbing the bottom of the glass and then a bit of a rinse then moved up to the frames and a rinse then the top part of the glass, scrub scrub scrub scrub........and then he rinsed the feck out of it all!!! A total waste of time and water. 
 
Technique is the key to earning more and working smarter [emoji106]

My flow rate is 35 on the pf controller which I’ve measured to approx 2L a minute




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Flushing is what I was going to say after reading all of the thread. 
 
At OP, what flow rate are you using? A slow flow and not enough rinsing could leave spots.
 
*side note, I was working on a new build estate yesterday and saw another windy cleaning a few houses up the road. I stopped and watched him work. It was painful to watch, he was scrubbing the bottom of the glass and then a bit of a rinse then moved up to the frames and a rinse then the top part of the glass, scrub scrub scrub scrub........and then he rinsed the feck out of it all!!! A total waste of time and water. 
 
Technique is the key to earning more and working smarter [emoji106]

My flow rate is 35 on the pf controller which I’ve measured to approx 2L a minute




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You need to very thorough with cleaning the frames on a first clean and making sure you flush out all the trapped dirt behind the frames and methodically rinse from top to bottom left to right non of this exagarated S or the mark of zorro Z otherwise you will get spotting. 

 
you're spots should be able to tell you where the problem lies.

If they are coming from the top frames in a straight line then its the frames that are not clean enough, if the spots are all over the glass then you're water is not clean enough.

 Have a look at where the spots are on the windows and work out where they are coming from.

Any spots I get nowadays will come from the little opener windows you get like a letterbox they are, the water goes underneath them and then drips down onto the window below. If the seals that seal the window shut are damaged or old the water can get inside and mix with dirt/dust then fall out afterwards. PITA. If its a bungalow I will usually do above mentioned windows first and then when going back to do windows below them I will give the a quick wipe with a cloth.

Also you can wrap a tea-towel around you're brush head and use that for upstairs windows/frames, it is useful tactic to dry off any frames you are not sure about.

When you start each house you have to assess which windows will need the longest drip dry time and do them first. pick you're windows off, so do all you're little letterbox type openers that have window below them first then do all the large panes that have nothing above them next and finally go back and do the windows underneath the little letter box window you did in the first place. If you do notice some big drips hanging off the frame you can either put towel on brush and dry or even just flick the excess water off you're brush and "knock" the drips off.

First cleans need to be meticulous, if you are not spending around 3x the normal minutes to do the job on a first clean you are not spending long enough on it IMO.

You really need to hammer them top frames, even when they look clean often they are not "pure water" clean. Hammer the frame then hammer the seal just underneath it and spend some good time working the corners too. This will pay off for you on maintenance cleans for sure, it may not make them quicker but it will ensure a perfectly clean window.

 
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you're spots should be able to tell you where the problem lies.
 
If they are coming from the top frames in a straight line then its the frames that are not clean enough, if the spots are all over the glass then you're water is not clean enough.
 
 Have a look at where the spots are on the windows and work out where they are coming from.
 
Any spots I get nowadays will come from the little opener windows you get like a letterbox they are, the water goes underneath them and then drips down onto the window below. If the seals that seal the window shut are damaged or old the water can get inside and mix with dirt/dust then fall out afterwards. PITA. If its a bungalow I will usually do above mentioned windows first and then when going back to do windows below them I will give the a quick wipe with a cloth.
 
Also you can wrap a tea-towel around you're brush head and use that for upstairs windows/frames, it is useful tactic to dry off any frames you are not sure about.
 
When you start each house you have to assess which windows will need the longest drip dry time and do them first. pick you're windows off, so do all you're little letterbox type openers that have window below them first then do all the large panes that have nothing above them next and finally go back and do the windows underneath the little letter box window you did in the first place. If you do notice some big drips hanging off the frame you can either put towel on brush and dry or even just flick the excess water off you're brush and "knock" the drips off.
 
First cleans need to be meticulous, if you are not spending around 3x the normal minutes to do the job on a first clean you are not spending long enough on it IMO.
 
You really need to hammer them top frames, even when they look clean often they are not "pure water" clean. Hammer the frame then hammer the seal just underneath it and spend some good time working the corners too. This will pay off for you on maintenance cleans for sure, it may not make them quicker but it will ensure a perfectly clean window.
Totally agree I did a first clean today lower frames looked nice and clean but just as much dirt was flushed out as upper dirtier frames.

County Durham Lad

 
So my TDS has creeped up again to 4 ???. Still 14 after ro. Surprised how quick this has happened...after about 1200 litres. Presume this is the di and time to change the resin. It’s a small plastic vessel so I gather going for an 11 L one would be better. Unless I’m missing something here


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So my TDS has creeped up again to 4 ???. Still 14 after ro. Surprised how quick this has happened...after about 1200 litres. Presume this is the di and time to change the resin. It’s a small plastic vessel so I gather going for an 11 L one would be better. Unless I’m missing something here


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Dude you needed to change it 500 litres ago but you really need a larger vessel.

I've got an 11 litre bottle with connections attached. Its a Gardiners one. I've just put fresh resin in it. I was gonna keep it as a spare because it leaks a little but I could let you have it for £45 if you fancy a drive to Gloucester. Connections and resin included of course. Its this one;

http://gardinerpolesystems.co.uk/all-products/pure-water-systems/water-treatment/de-ionisation/11-litre-di-resin-pressure-vessel-canister-3-4-bspt-ports.html

 
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Dude you needed to change it 500 litres ago but you really need a larger vessel.
 
I've got an 11 litre bottle with connections attached. Its a Gardiners one. I've just put fresh resin in it. I was gonna keep it as a spare because it leaks a little but I could let you have it for £45 if you fancy a drive to Gloucester. Connections and resin included of course. Its this one;
 
http://gardinerpolesystems.co.uk/all-products/pure-water-systems/water-treatment/de-ionisation/11-litre-di-resin-pressure-vessel-canister-3-4-bspt-ports.html


Really....they burn through that quick??? So a couple of tank fills each time before replacing the resin ??? I wish Pure Freedom would have told me this before I brought it. Appreciate the offer on the D. I but your a little out my way


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Really....they burn through that quick??? So a couple of tank fills each time before replacing the resin ??? I wish Pure Freedom would have told me this before I brought it. Appreciate the offer on the D. I but your a little out my way


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Once it starts to go I found it goes quickly but my experience comes from using DI only for 150ish TDS. I think there was an issue with what they supplied you, I reckon poor quality resin. Although a 1L canister won't last long it should have lasted a lot longer!! Have a look at that link, they are good quality vessels and they sell the fittings for them too.

 
I’ve got new ro and Di from pure freedom, first installed it got zero TDS , literally put about 700 litres through it and it’s at 2 already ?


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I had exactly this problem with pure freedom. Got about 1000 liters and the resin was shot. Called up and they sent me some more resin. Same thing happened again. So went out and bought a 25 liter vessel locally. Been 0 ppm for the last 16 months now.


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So, on the subject of spotting. Turned up to quote a customer this morning. She was unsure about WFP because the last guy left them spotty. She showed me the windows he cleaned 3 weeks ago. She says they were like that from the start and she called him but he never came back. They looked as if someone had rinsed them with dirty water, certainly not purified. All good for me though, picked up her and her neighbour at £40 for the two each month! To turn her around to WFP I cleaned one window for free, the sun baked it dry, and spotless of course, in a couple of minutes and she was well chuffed.

 
What brush are you using. If it’s a “flock” bristle (very soft and each strand is like a starburst) then you must rinse “off” glass as the bristles hold some of the dirt And it will look like spotting from impure water.


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