Welcome to the UK Window Cleaning Forums

Starting or own a window cleaning business? We're a network of window cleaners sharing advice, tips & experience. Rounds for sale & more. Join us today!

Univalve versions

WCF

Help Support WCF:

Well done, and thanks. I'll be placing a small order. Will you please put a few instructions in with the kit. I'm sure it's straight forward enough once we know the procedure and have done it once.

Thanks again. ??
I haven't really got any instructions as such but I've made a short video showing the basics:

Univalve Disassembly



P.s sorry if the stock music is annoying! It's better than the original with my 5yr old singing in the background though! 

 
Last edited by a moderator:
What a man. Innovation, improvement and supporting the trade. Thanks 

Ordered ?
Thanks, I can't say I've innovated much though. At most, it's a bit easier than having to find spare parts for it yourself. It's also quite expensive if you're not buying everything in bulk. I've had multiple quotes for an initial sample order of 10 custom springs for £75 or so. Unfortunately they aren't available off shelf anywhere as far as I can tell and I've approached many of the biggest sellers. 

 
Last edited by a moderator:
As an update to my previous post: I've finally had the springs manufactured in 316 marine grade stainless steel and they are a perfect match for the originals except they shouldn't corrode. 

I've used my 2 old Univalves that were unusable as a test bed and replaced the worn out o rings and springs in and they've been thoroughly tested and working like new ever since. 

I've put together a little kit with all the correct parts to repair your Univalves yourselves. It's actually a bit of an upgrade as they are all chemical resistant so would be good for use with a sprayer. 

Available on Rootek-designs.co.uk with a 20% discount for all forum members using code WCF20.

View attachment 26299
Is that the small O Ring in the end of the plunger that shuts the water off? Thanks

 
1 hour ago, Skxawng said:

I haven't really got any instructions as such but I've made a short video showing the basics:

Univalve Disassembly


Thanks for that, it's all the information I'll need.??

Nothing wrong with the music but what can be sweeter than a five year old singing in the background without a care in the world, and none of life's later hangups some of us get that someone might be listening. My son had a lovely cute melodic voice at that age but I haven't heard him sing since he was about eight. He's now nearly thirty four. ?

 
As an update to my previous post: I've finally had the springs manufactured in 316 marine grade stainless steel and they are a perfect match for the originals except they shouldn't corrode. 

I've used my 2 old Univalves that were unusable as a test bed and replaced the worn out o rings and springs in and they've been thoroughly tested and working like new ever since. 

I've put together a little kit with all the correct parts to repair your Univalves yourselves. It's actually a bit of an upgrade as they are all chemical resistant so would be good for use with a sprayer. 

Available on Rootek-designs.co.uk with a 20% discount for all forum members using code WCF20.

View attachment 26299
Just ordered and a few other bits!

My univalve spring is probably corroded as I’m pulling it a few times to stop so good tim8ng for Me.

 
This may be a stupid question ?. Do you think it would be possible to maintain it with the hose still clipped on with the o ring. I use the green pu hose , so either side of my univalve it o ringed. When it’s broken , I always end up breaking the slim bit on the univalve, when trying to get the o clips off. I have heard some do not o clip it at all. 
I use the swivel gooseneck , green pu hose and univalve, so any ideas what’s best? 

 
This may be a stupid question ?. Do you think it would be possible to maintain it with the hose still clipped on with the o ring. I use the green pu hose , so either side of my univalve it o ringed. When it’s broken , I always end up breaking the slim bit on the univalve, when trying to get the o clips off. I have heard some do not o clip it at all. 
I use the swivel gooseneck , green pu hose and univalve, so any ideas what’s best? 
Unfortunately you need to remove the hose. I used stainless steel o clips which are very hard and I can't cut the ears with pincers. I use my 115mm angle grinder to grind the tip of the ear. I do this a bit at a time to stop too much heat as this could melt the barb. You could also use a Dremel tool.

 
Unfortunately you need to remove the hose. I used stainless steel o clips which are very hard and I can't cut the ears with pincers. I use my 115mm angle grinder to grind the tip of the ear. I do this a bit at a time to stop too much heat as this could melt the barb. You could also use a Dremel tool.
Ok thank you. That’s why I break the univalve then. I use stainless steel ones. Nightmare to get off, I’ve tried squeaky clean Dave’s  recommendation to no avail. I’ll look into it then. Thank you

 
Just ordered and a few other bits!

My univalve spring is probably corroded as I’m pulling it a few times to stop so good tim8ng for Me.
My Univalves from the first batch of sales are still in use. Those springs must have lost some of their tensile compression strength over this time.

Try using the mild steel ones they are much easier to cut off and a bit cheaper . 
True, but I see my mild steel zinc plated o clips on one of my poles is rather badly rusted.

 
My Univalves from the first batch of sales are still in use. Those springs must have lost some of their tensile compression strength over this time.

True, but I see my mild steel zinc plated o clips on one of my poles is rather badly rusted.
Yes they will rust over time but will easily last 2-3 years and guess by then the pole or the univalve will need some maintenance by then the stainless ones are nice but it’s very difficult to cut them off at the side of the road when working that’s what we have found I rarely use any stainless ones there days most are mild steel and on my reel fittings etc are over 6 years old . 

 
You can take it apart without removing the hose and o ring, but only to inspect its condition and you could replace the small o ring. To get the spring or large o ring off, you need to take off the hose. 

I have an easy method of removing the o clip without damaging it. You just use the o clip pliers to squash the o clip, flattening the ears out. Then squash it slightly the other way to make it more round. Then with a stanley knife cut the hose away in front of the clip, the grip the o clip with the pliers and rotate it back and forth gently until it comes off. Then just cut away the remaining hose. It sounds complicated writing it out like this but it only takes about a minute. 

 
Back
Top