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My biggest hate with gutter tools is when there is tv cable running along the gutter with the grass ******* matted to it ?

 
What about the pressure on the pole when you get a tough plant that needs removing. After seeing what happened to Green's pole closing a window that would worry me. 


What about the pressure on the pole when you get a tough plant that needs removing. After seeing what happened to Green's pole closing a window that would worry me. 


Well you wouldn’t use an extreme for that, slx would be ok , personally that’s too long anyway, I use a wee small pole from B&M £3 or something. It gets far enough imo for when they are full 

 
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Well you wouldn’t use an extreme for that, slx would be ok , personally that’s too long anyway, I use a wee small pole from B&M £3 or something. It gets far enough imo for when they are full 
I've got an SLX 27. I've just this evening taken it to pieces to clean it and replace the tape and I honestly can't see its much thicker than the extreme. As it's my only pole (for now) it would be a nightmare if anything happened to it ?

 
What about the pressure on the pole when you get a tough plant that needs removing. After seeing what happened to Green's pole closing a window that would worry me. 
This needs to be done using a Standoff to get you above the gutter. To start off with I wouldn't use a current WFP, use an old one. You tend to only get the really bad plants at the bends in the gutter not in the straight sections, but if you do get one that's tough, never met one yet, then reposition the ladder, if the gutters are really full then you might as well just use a Harris pole as you need to empty your bucket and once down the ladder you might as well reposition it. You also have to remember the pole is in a straight line and is therefore very strong. Using this method is especially good over really big conservatories. Where it really scores is when one person is on the floor "walking" the rubbish to the man up the ladders. Everyone has their own favourite method but on long straight sections this is by far the quickest method I've found.

My biggest hate with gutter tools is when there is tv cable running along the gutter with the grass ******* matted to it ?
And they're a bigger nightmare for Gutter Vacs.

 
This is a serious question. Many of you lads have got a Vac and I understand that they serve a purpose. However for domestic cleaning I find that the tiles are often too close to the gutter to be able to use a gutter vac to successfully. I can see the benefit to using one on Commercial work where you have much wider deeper channels and can get the vac in easily but not for domestic work. I still find personally it's easier to climb a ladder and use pro gutter tools to empty them by hand. Please correct me if you think otherwise.
I find the wide, narrow skyvac crevice tool gets into most gutters. Sometimes if it doesn't fit I'm able to slide it in from the side at a wider gap and work it along. If that doesn't work then it's off with the ladders.
The more experience you get from using the vac the more techniques and ways to use/position the different nozzles you will learn and make the job easier and quicker.
Problem with the skyvac crevice tool is it's plastic. It wears down the side that rubs against the tiles and eventually wears through. I have to buy a new one every 2-3 months. I have tried making some narrow nozzles but they are not as wide as the skyvac crevice tool. I use my vac on just about every job I go to. I have to get the ladders off the van for something on probably 1 in 4/5 jobs. If the gutters are full of sludge/silt or water if the gutter run is at the wrong angle then the vac beats working of the ladders.
 
This needs to be done using a Standoff to get you above the gutter. To start off with I wouldn't use a current WFP, use an old one. You tend to only get the really bad plants at the bends in the gutter not in the straight sections, but if you do get one that's tough, never met one yet, then reposition the ladder, if the gutters are really full then you might as well just use a Harris pole as you need to empty your bucket and once down the ladder you might as well reposition it. You also have to remember the pole is in a straight line and is therefore very strong. Using this method is especially good over really big conservatories. Where it really scores is when one person is on the floor "walking" the rubbish to the man up the ladders. Everyone has their own favourite method but on long straight sections this is by far the quickest method I've found.

And they're a bigger nightmare for Gutter Vacs.
I think I see where i'm thinking about this wrong now, you use the pole horizontally from up the ladder and bring the waste towards you and into the bucket??? I was thinking it was done from ground level with the WFP. Does that make sense and is that right?

 
I think I see where i'm thinking about this wrong now, you use the pole horizontally from up the ladder and bring the waste towards you and into the bucket??? I was thinking it was done from ground level with the WFP. Does that make sense and is that right?
Yes and no ?, as a one man operative then you use the pole horizontally up the ladder, as a two man team you use it vertically from the floor. I use an old 27' CLX and have literally done miles of gutters in a 2 man team and never damaged a pole yet. If you do come across an immoveable object then the acme thread turns, pushing the pro tool flat, before my pole has given way.

 
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Yes and no ?, as a one man operative then you use the pole horizontally up the ladder, as a two man team you use it vertically from the floor. I use an old 27' CLX and have literally done miles of gutters in a 2 man team and never damaged a pole yet. If you do come across an immoveable object then the acme thread turns, pushing the pro tool flat, before my pole has given way.
We only use them on ladders P.T. Pics please of your vertical set up. 

 
We only use them on ladders P.T. Pics please of your vertical set up. 
My Heath Robinson set up as requested ? Just screw the required Pro Gutter tool on, I think they are selling a professional version but this works for me and was using this method way before they started to sell the upgrade. You still get the problems of not enough gap though. 

IMG_20181204_0716085.jpg

 
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I would say that over the 3 years I’ve had a vac, I would guess 1 in 8 houses I’ve done has a problem with tiles overhanging too much.

Would anyone agree or disagree with that ratio? 

And yeah with regard to prices of vac, I only do maybe 2 or 3 domestic gutter clearances a month, so the sky vac atom has been perfect for me, not worth me spending £1800+ 

 
I would say that over the 3 years I’ve had a vac, I would guess 1 in 8 houses I’ve done has a problem with tiles overhanging too much.
Would anyone agree or disagree with that ratio? 
And yeah with regard to prices of vac, I only do maybe 2 or 3 domestic gutter clearances a month, so the sky vac atom has been perfect for me, not worth me spending £1800+ 
I would agree that it's probably about 1 in 7/8 jobs that I have problems with overhanging tiles. Ladders still come off about 1 in 4/5 jobs for other things like blocked down pipes, clip brackets back on etc. I am mainly domestic gutter clearing, around 85% of my work.
 
I quoted a 600 year only building a few weeks back. I refused to touch the gutters, the slates on the building are huge and often fall down. Literally would kill you if you didn't get out the way. They never bothered to get back to me about the windows oddly enough. Good luck to whoever took that on!

Basically the same type as this church...

Screenshot 2018-12-04 21.17.04.png

 
I'm doing a care home's windows at the moment for the residents. Had a look at their gutters and communal areas, look like they have not been touched. Will need to see what's going on because the residents pay for it to get done. A lot of the housing associations cut back to save money but fairly soon it comes back to haunt them.

 
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