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What pressure washer?

WCF

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You need a 21 LPM PW and 200bar should do the trick but if you can get a 250bar one then its perfect because you only need to run at half revs.
Sorry, but you don’t ‘need’ a 21LPM machine.

I work mostly on massive properties and have posted pictures on this forum of some very big drives I’ve pressure washed.

These were all done with a 15LPM Briggs and Stratton machine without any issues at all.

Obviously a 21 is a bit quicker, 

but definitely not enough to require the word ‘need’ ?

 
Sorry, but you don’t ‘need’ a 21LPM machine.
I work mostly on massive properties and have posted pictures on this forum of some very big drives I’ve pressure washed.
These were all done with a 15LPM Briggs and Stratton machine without any issues at all.
Obviously a 21 is a bit quicker, 
but definitely not enough to require the word ‘need’ [emoji106]
Ours is only 12.5 lpm & i wouldn’t trade it for the world, will definitely have another one when it gives out


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21 lpm machine obviously offers more water, but the pressure may not always be as much as a quality machine like a 15 lpm Briggs.

My mates here use a 15 ppm machine and both are honda gx, and still plenty powerful 

 
Best thing to do is test drive a few PWs and come up with your own conclusion. Its a thing that you cant buy unless you have trialed it. That's why its better to go to a place like Ruland pumps and test 3 machines. 15lpm at 250bar, 21lpm at 200bar or the optimum one at 21lpm at 250bar but at 100kgs the weight is an issue. But you are right Steve we don't need any one PW its just the one that suits our needs.  

 
The best thing to do is have two pressure washers one an industrial grade unit for big jobs (GX390 or GX610) and then an industrial grade electric unit that's runs on 240v. Like a NILFISK Poseidon 12lpm.

Then your not pulling out the monster for small paths and small patios and your not turning down small jobs.

Small jobs can lead to a lot more i.e. once they see your work you can try and get windows or fascia gutter ect..

 
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11 minutes ago, scottish cleaning service said:


Very true, a lot of the cheap ones can also suck from a bowser though and I don't regret buying cheap to start with.

It's now a back up washer if main one breaks and is a cost effective way to enter this market

 
Just use this formula to compare machines -

LPM x Pressure in Bar, then divide this by 600.

This will give you a number to compare machines, the higher the number the more powerful the machine is.

 
Had no problem with mine and good value too as people have stated though any problems washer has to be sent back to Jetmac at buyers own expense but most problems can be sorted by sending a video or photo of problem and advice can be given or in some cases basic Jetmac servicing videos can be found online

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Had no problem with mine and good value too as people have stated though any problems washer has to be sent back to Jetmac at buyers own expense but most problems can be sorted by sending a video or photo of problem and advice can be given or in some cases basic Jetmac servicing videos can be found online

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Yes problem is guys the amount of stuff we get back and nothing wrong is unbelieveable - most common thing is people using those dam hozelock connectors with the auto stop valves that restrict flow of water into pump

whats app is a god send for sending videos back and forward as help as half the  time the problem on phone is - 1. me understanding the isssue and 2. you understanding my verbal solution - with whats app i can see and HEAR the problem -so much easier.

In the event of a major issue that cant be sorted at a distance then we would ask you to send part back

for example pressure problems are always located within the head of the pump so we get customers just to send pump head back and a short video of how to take it off , this saves having to send the whole machine back - major issue rarely happen !!

common issues blocked inline filter , unloader valve over adjustment , dirt and grit in unloader valve due to dirty water

 
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