flipping hydrophobic glass!

[scottish cleaning service]

Did you give it a try mate? Went back to useing my supreme rinse on brush with 100 deg fan jets with the flo set at 40. Still not sure about the jets. Going to try it with the 1.4 ml pencils tomorrow to see how I get on with those, Am loving the rinse on method. might try out a larger brush later on though.

I'll be on the glass tomorrow all day and give it a try on my own first. I will do the neighbours the old way and then check over mine after 2hrs to see how it looks. Was thinking of 50% 100% 100% 50% Jets instead of all 50% but if I rinse on the glass then it doesn't matter what jets you have. My pump is set at 60 which i think is 1.8lpm or there about.

 

[Davy G]

I'll be on the glass tomorrow all day and give it a try on my own first. I will do the neighbours the old way and then check over mine after 2hrs to see how it looks. Was thinking of 50% 100% 100% 50% Jets instead of all 50% but if I rinse on the glass then it doesn't matter what jets you have. My pump is set at 60 which i think is 1.8lpm or there about.

If you're going to use multiple jets I'd try a full house of 100s. A high  flow which fizzes when on the glass.

As I've said before. Embrace the fizz. ?

 

[Crystalalan]

The extreme sill is designed to give the 100s room for the fan to spread across the full width of the brush, there is clear space in the design over two short strips in the centre to give them "elbow room." That is important to get the full benefit. I should think you can trim any brush to do the same. When it's right you can turn the brush upside down and see two perfect fan patterns, a delight to see and super efficient. I don't have any personal experience of the ultimate. Again, a high enough flow and pressure to fizz on the glass

Out of interest Davy what size is your brush? That's supreme brush I'm using is only 23cms but is super light and absolutely flies along the glass with great cleaning power but will only hold two jets. 

 

[Davy G]

Out of interest Davy what size is your brush? That's supreme brush I'm using is only 23cms but is super light and absolutely flies along the glass with great cleaning power but will only hold two jets. 

Hi Crystal, it's a 26cm Extreme Sill . I firmly believe it's the right size and weight for my mainly domestic work. Lightweight non flocked brushes work very well for fast, agile cleaning especially with a swivel as you can set the adjuster screw really light without the brush flopping about. You don't need loads of jets for a relatively compact brush. There's no need for an absolute deluge. Focused work, water and speed, that's the key. Two 100s paired with a non - flocked brush, a swivel and a pressure set to fizz when on the glass is as perfect as possible, I think. As I I'm always saying, "the devil really is in the detail."

 

[Bwfc]

Its funny sometimes u look at the window and they look perfect it's only truly when u go inside or when sun right on the window you find out if clean. Did mine yesterday looked good then went inside terrible water stains from brick that had run down in the rain onto patio doors.  Each window is different always a learning curve...

 

[Crystalalan]

Yes absolutely. I do a lot of interior window cleans and it's actually a great learning tool, if you do the outsides as well. You can get a good insight as to what you are doing right and how you can improve.

 

[DeLaCruz]

Yes absolutely. I do a lot of interior window cleans and it's actually a great learning tool, if you do the outsides as well. You can get a good insight as to what you are doing right and how you can improve.

Just got a big job for inside and out of a school - there’s no access issues as it’s half term so I can pick and choose which parts I clean first. What’s the general preference for cleaning ? I was thinking I’ll do the outside first, then the insides that way I can check my outsides are good as I go 

 

[Davy G]

Just got a big job for inside and out of a school - there’s no access issues as it’s half term so I can pick and choose which parts I clean first. What’s the general preference for cleaning ? I was thinking I’ll do the outside first, then the insides that way I can check my outsides are good as I go 

Sounds a good plan to me. ?

 

[Crystalalan]

Wow that's a nice job to have. Yep definitely the outside first

 

[Iron Giant]

noticed that in the vid he didn't let the frames dry but if frames are clean anyway can't really see an issue with that.

Your working day must be really long if you are waiting for frames to dry before cleaning the glass ?

 

[Stevieboy]

Your working day must be really long if you are waiting for frames to dry before cleaning the glass ?

Mine you. Using that phenomenal amount of water should think it takes hours for the upstairs windows to stop dripping. ??????️️️

 

[scottish cleaning service]

Did you give it a try mate? Went back to useing my supreme rinse on brush with 100 deg fan jets with the flo set at 40. Still not sure about the jets. Going to try it with the 1.4 ml pencils tomorrow to see how I get on with those, Am loving the rinse on method. might try out a larger brush later on though.

Tried it yesterday on my own windows. The tops are a bit spottie but the rest of glass is fine. I think I would need a swivel so I could begin with an angle at top corner like the video.

 

[Davy G]

Tried it yesterday on my own windows. The tops are a bit spottie but the rest of glass is fine. I think I would need a swivel so I could begin with an angle at top corner like the video.

You don't need a swivel to get in the corners. I like the swivel but ideally the brush needs to be very light. The swivel is by no means essential. Not enough cleaning of the top of your work is the main problem, I think. Get right into the corners as well . Build that head of water, and bring down the full width, continuous  curtain with the brush on very close to the glass, to reduce spray. Dead easy and works a treat.

Let us know how you get on, please. ?

 

[scottish cleaning service]

You don't need a swivel to get in the corners. I like the swivel but ideally the brush needs to be very light. The swivel is by no means essential. Not enough cleaning of the top of your work is the main problem, I think. Get right into the corners as well . Build that head of water, and bring down the full width, continuous  curtain with the brush on very close to the glass, to reduce spray. Dead easy and works a treat.

Let us know how you get on, please. ?

I'll keep trying on my own till I have perfected it. cheers

 

[Dave B]

I don't even rinse some windows.

I have a swivel and after a quick scrub I go down the window sdeways like tradding and no bits left on the glass.

I scrub up and down once and the side to side after is a second scrub and rinse in one.

Have a swivel and Gardiner backpack with my own 5lpm pump and use it on full flow and can still do 2 average houses with 1 fill.

Just keep practicing Scottish and it will click into place.

 

[cleaniac]

I'll just add my little 'opinion here. 

If you are having trouble with hydrophobic glass here are some suggestions.

1. First and foremost, always make sure your water is at 000 tds. I meet so many window cleaners who clean at 002 004 and up to 014 and wonder why when they do get hydrophilic glass it spots and runs. You must make sure your water is 000. 

2. Water flow is king, the key to cleaning problem glass is getting the flow over the surface fast enough to overcome the surface friction, mobilising the loose dirt and washing it free. If you have an electronic flow controller, it might be worth binning it, and having a tap installed inline on the hose, and use the pump to prime the hose using it's internal pressure sensor. That way you can let the pressure build up so it shuts off, and you have 100psi of water blasting capability from the hose controlled by the tap. 

3. It's really important to make sure that the top frame is washed correctly on the 1st clean. Then subsequent cleans you will not have runs.

4. If you have windows that open flap up that have no weather beads, it might be an idea to clean the top window open, so that the water runs will clear the lower window.

5. Contrary to popular opinion, rinsing will make absolutely no difference to the end result. What are you rinsing off? Pure water? 

I never have issues with hydrophobic glass. I keep my water at 000, no need to rinse either if your water quality is top notch.

 

[Dave B]

I'll just add my little 'opinion here. 

If you are having trouble with hydrophilic glass here are some suggestions.

1. First and foremost, always make sure your water is at 000 tds. I meet so many window cleaners who clean at 002 004 and up to 014 and wonder why when they do get hydrophilic glass it spots and runs. You must make sure your water is 000. 

2. Water flow is king, the key to cleaning problem glass is getting the flow over the surface fast enough to overcome the surface friction, mobilising the loose dirt and washing it free. If you have an electronic flow controller, it might be worth binning it, and having a tap installed inline on the hose, and use the pump to prime the hose using it's internal pressure sensor. That way you can let the pressure build up so it shuts off, and you have 100psi of water blasting capability from the hose controlled by the tap. 

3. It's really important to make sure that the top frame is washed correctly on the 1st clean. Then subsequent cleans you will not have runs.

4. If you have windows that open flap up that have no weather beads, it might be an idea to clean the top window open, so that the water runs will clear the lower window.

5. Contrary to popular opinion, rinsing will make absolutely no difference to the end result. What are you rinsing off? Pure water? 

I never have issues with hydrophilic glass. I keep my water at 000, no need to rinse either if your water quality is top notch.

I clean at anything up to 10 and never have an issue.

It's technique not purity.

Hydrophilic glass i think is easier to clean as the dirty water doesn't stick.

Only been wfp for 6 years though so someone else is bound to know better.

High flow and just clean it.

 

[cleaniac]

I clean at anything up to 10 and never have an issue.

It's technique not purity.

Hydrophilic glass i think is easier to clean as the dirty water doesn't stick.

Only been wfp for 6 years though so someone else is bound to know better.

High flow and just clean it.

What a numpty. I meant Hydrophobic. 

??

 

[Crystalalan]

To be honest lads, I don`t think its an issue anymore. Set my flo at 40 cleaning the surrounds really thoroughly to. I think it was a bigger problem on the windows where the rubber seal is exposed and in the early days when I went from trad to WFP user. Think I might try upping flow rate to 60 next week. See the difference. Not convinced about 100 degree jets but loving my 1.4 pencils. cheers for all your advice.

 

[Luke Macclesfield]

Hi everyone.

Been waterfed poleing for 3 months now but still can`t quite get the hang of successfully cleaning hydrophobic glass. Still getting white spots. It`s driving me mad. I use a 35cm flocked gardiner brush with 4 x 1.4 ml pencil jets and a flow rate set at 25. I`m rinsing very thoroughly. Was thinking about getting some 50 degree fan jets do you reckon that would do the trick? I don`t want to resort to tradding them

Hi mate. I’m also newish to wfp and having a few issues with spots on a few houses I’ve got. How do you know which windows are hydrophobic glass? What kind of houses usually have hydrophobic glass? That may be the problem I’m having.. ? 

Have you resolved the issue with the advise you’ve been given? If you find out what does the trick please let me know. ?

 

[Part Timer]

No rhyme or reason to identify hydrophobic glass until you wash them. As a general rule spotting happens, presuming all muck removed during the scrubbing phase, because of a lack of rinsing . Occasionally rubbers will leech but usually you don't rinse enough